S&W 625 break it in or send to smith?

C

charleym3

New member
I shoot IDPA. Sometimes with a 625. Because of the rule change, I traded my 5 inch circa 1990 for a 4 inch made this year.
To say that the trigger pulls a vacume would be a significant understatement. So should I take it to my FLGS for some clean up work or just break it in with a few hundred rounds of ball ammo?
Personally I think that the inconsistant drag firing double action is from that stupid do hicky next to the cyliner release.

As a side bar, now that William is gone, RIP Bill, do you think that Ruger will finally come out with an IDPA wheel gun? FWIW, what I'd like is a GP-100 in 9mm. With moon clips it would be an excellent package.
 
I don't like the locking safety either

However, I don't think it is responsible for extra weight or roughness in your gun's trigger pull. No matter if you got it new, or used, you remove the sideplate and innards for cleaning. You never know just what you might find in there. Then, after lubing and reassembly, proceed to dry-fire the snot out of it. After a few thousand reps, you will be able to tell if it feels broken-in, or whethere you still feel that it needs an action tune.
 
Both times I've taken a factory new S&W revolver's side plate off I've found a gritty sand like substance in the action, usually behind the hammer between it and the frame. Getting the major trigger/hammer assemblies out and getting the whole shabang cleaned out really did help out quite a bit, smoother for sure and now it's just a matter of time till I get enough rounds through the guns.
 
charleym3,

While I'm sure VictorLouis meant well with his advice, are you sure you want to discover how the innards of your 625 work by disassembling it? Do you have a good guidebook handy? Do you know how to get the sideplate on and off without damaging it? This is just something to think about; as few things are more embarrassing than having to bring a bag full of gun to your local 'smith. ;)

I'd first recommend dryfiring the bejabbers out of the gun to see if it smooths out the action. Failing that, see about a trigger job.
 
VictorLouis,

No matter if you got it new, or used, you remove the sideplate and innards for cleaning.
Click to expand...

Right. And the first thing I did when I got my new BMW home was to tear down the engine and rebuild it. ;) :p
 
Tamara's right (Except about the BMW!)

I sent S&W an e-mail asking if I could safely dry-fire my 331 J-frame. Their resopnse was, "Sure, dry-fire all you wish". Being the paranoid type, I didn't believe them. So, I dialed up "A-Zoom" and purchased some .32 H&R mag snap-caps. With my new snap-caps, I felt my firing pin was much safer, so I dry-fired with recklesss abandon. The action actually DID smooth out and the trigger feels lighter, too.

JMO,

KR
 
I think it's a good idea for competitive shooter to know how to clean the insides of their S&W revolvers. And the best place to start is with Jerry Kuknhausen's "The S&W Revolver - A shop Manual." The lighter and smoother your trigger pull the more you'll notice any crud in the lockwork.

Elliot
 
Indeed...

...a very good book. One I'd recommend having at your elbow before you pick up the first screwdriver. ;)
 
Mr. G

S&W told me that it was perfectly fine to dry-fire the pistols with frame mounted firing pins. I just didn't believe them. :)
Thus, my A-Zoom order. These A-Zooms are great. Not what I expected at all. MUCH better. Made of aluminum also, not plastic.

KR
 
Tamara says......a very good book. One I'd recommend having at your elbow before you pick up the first screwdriver
Click to expand...
Agree.
Would like to add...
Read it thoroughly BEFORE picking up a screwdriver.
And, if screwdriver doesn't exactly fit, don't use it.

Sam
 
Probably should've inserted the word 'consider'

in regards to cleaning the innards. Also should've taken the time to point out it isn't a job for the novice. Me bad.:)

However, there's quite a bit of difference between working under-the-hood of a S&W with about a baker's dozen in parts and/or assemblies, and a fine Bayerische Motoren Werken with perhaps several thousand.:eek: :p :D

My neighbor's a mechanic who doesn't blink at tearing down all manner of automobiles. Scared to death to open up his guns, though.;)
 
Thanks everyone.

Yes I know how to correctly get the side plate off, and did about 2 hours ago. That was as far as I went though. I took out the transfer bar and cycled the action a few times, just to watch everything work. It's interesting.
The single action seems to break at less than a pound, while the DA is *very* stiff. I've only got 36 rounds through it. It is very accurate with all 4 of my loads. This one is a keeper, but the trigger needs work.
I think what I'll do is take it and a few hundred rounds to the range where my FLGS works and have him take a quick look through it, then empty the brass.
I'll report back as things progress.

Now, Grips, I want compact rubber... Packmayr, or something else? Solid wood grips look great but beat me up badly. I tried Eagle grips before and don't care for them.

Oh yeah, The only book I have is the Firearms disassembly guide that covers the Nframe and the GP.
 
Tamara...

"Right. And the first thing I did when I got my new BMW home was to tear down the engine and rebuild it. "

You are quite a woman! How are you with Dodge Dakotas???
 
Mylhouse,

I have to wonder if Tamara was posting in this thread to try and help out or just to take a jab at VictorLouis.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Why would I want to do that? :confused:


I just wanted to throw a cautionary note in because disassembling a 625 ain't as easy as it looks and it's easy to do $100 or more of cosmetic damage to the gun just removing the sideplate if you don't do it right.

I'd think my reason was obvious from further postings in the thread. :)
 
With J.B. Woods' manual proped open to the proper section, I took it apart this morning. I'm happy to report that I found nothing really ugly inside. There were two drag marks, one on the left (cylinder release) side of the hammer, and one on the cylinder hand, cover plate side. The transfer bar was very rough on one corner. I smoothed the transfer bar edge, but left the other things alone since I could not determine the source of the drag marks.
I was also able to get it back together, despite a most disagreeable trigger rebound spring. And it works. The trigger is no better, but I really didn't expect it to be.
So now the question is how to lighten the DA trigger pull. Probably not all in the rebound spring though that could use some lightening. Who has used the Wolff replacements? What was your experience?
 
Springs

I usually use the Wolff spring kits with reduced mainspring. I put the 13 pound trigger rebound spring in. On the mainspring I use a Teddy Jacobson strain screw that has teeth on it so it won't back out. This lets me dial in the trigger pull to the desired poundage and retain the setting. I have been thinking of trying a Miculek spring kit (available through Brownell's) to see if there is much difference.

There are other wood grips than Eagle. Hogue offers an array through there site in various woods with or without finger grooves and other options. There are Ahrends and Spegals and Herretts, too along with Badger. One might work for you.

Mag
 
Springs,
I use the standard tension Wolf power rib main spring, and 12lb rebound spring in most of my K and L frame Smiths. I also stone and polish the rebound block so that it is snooth on the bottom and side.This will eliminate drag. Inside of the rebound I use a .22 bore brush, on a drill, to to make sure that there is nothing for the rebound spring to drag on. Also, the strain screw pushes the Wolf Power Rib mainspring right on the rib. I have put a slight taper to the end of the screw on some applications so that it ill fit into the rib. This can be done by putting the screw into a drill and holding it at an angle, in low speed, against a honing stone. Do not polish the end of the screw and change the length.
 
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