S&W 19-5, question regarding condition

[J.G. Terry]

So I know?

Sure enough using a feeler gauge is the only way to know for sure. I stand by comments on rub marks. Might be good to measure end play. Not flipping the cylinder is a serious basic no-no. Taught that as a kid when Smith had five screws.

 

[mellow_c]

Made it out to the range.

Gun shot well! I put about 12 rounds of magnums through it. Another 12 .38 special +p and the rest regular specials. About 100 rounds in total. All the regular specials were older dirtier shooting 158 grain lead bullets that I've had on hand for a good while.
By 100 rounds, I noticed a bit of tightness with the cylinder rotation on just one chamber when shooting double action. All other chambers were fine. I noticed it was the same when dry firing, so i guess that would be my only complaint.

Other people at the range commented on how nice it was and what a great trigger it had. Everyone thought I got some great deal. I think i did well enough.

Attached is a 12 shot single action group i shot standing and unsupported at 7 yards.

Would any of you mind posting a link to feeler gauges for sale online that would work for measuring the gap? Id just like some examples, then maybe I'll pick some up at the hardware store.

Also wanted to mention again, I didn't see any wear marks on the front of the cylinder at the two chambers that appear to make contact with the top of the forcing cone. With the cylinder locked in place, I can pull it backwards and there is then a very slight visible gap on the two chambers that otherwise appear to make contact with the forcing cone, with the cylinder pushed forward, they appear to make contact to the same degree as when I'm just clocking and releasing the hammer like normal. The other 4 chambers don't appear to make contact even if I push the cylinder forward.

 

[dogdoc]

Easy fix. Get some power custom end shake bearing/washers. Google them . Easy install to fix cylinder endshake. Probably you tube videos on doing as well.

 

[Ibmikey]

Removing the end shake is a viable approach and easier than stretching the crane as taught by S&W. I personally would invest in a trip to Smith & Wesson as the work will be done correctly and warranted. I attended several S&W revolver schools in past years and have all the gauges, crane fixture etc. ——-somewhere in my stuff as there has not been a need for them in a lot of years.
End shake and cylinder gap are easy repairs for the factory to complete.

 

[walnut1704]

I've shot twice that many .38's through a Model 66-2 that I had rebuilt fifteen years ago and it shows little appreciable wear. The two loads I shoot are lead bullet reloads that most would consider mid-range. I don't think I've shot more than 100 rounds of .357 through it.

I picked the gun up at a gun show on the cheap as it was pretty beat up. I had it rebuilt outside of the factory. It came back with a .003" gap and zero end shake. It now has a barely perceptible amount of end shake. It still shoots well inside 2" at 25 yards off sandbags.

My point would be I don't think 10,000 rounds of .38 is all that much in a 19.

 

[Ibmikey]

In 1963 My first duty weapon was a S&W Mod 19 4” that I paid the princely sum of $82.57. That pistol was carried daily and shot in police competition for years with untold thousands of rounds put down the tube with no appreciable wear on the parts. At one of the revolver schools I attended Smith’s master gunsmith went through the pistol correcting any faults I am sure were corrected.
Some condemn the K frame. But it was state of the art for me and served well my law enforcement needs. Currently I have a half dozen stainless K frame Smiths that are shot regularly, I too have remained aloof to the new key driven pistols and the .22 semi auto that has a key hole the key has never left the blue box.
I’m sure the new Smith’s are a fine weapon that will give excellent service to those who are less sensitive to the “modern” updates.