?s about a S&W from a newbie

Mike, I don't think so. Colt introduced the large frame and swing out cylinder New Service model in 1898. Large calibers like 44 WCF (44-40) and 45 Long Colt were common. This was an unqualified success! S&W didn't offer a swing out cylinder and large frame model until 1907. S&W debuted the 44 Hand Ejector. The 44 S&W Special was brought out at the same time. The cartridge was a hit, the 44 Hand Ejector wasn't. Up until the British contracted for them chambered in 455 to supplement their Webleys in 1914. The Tripe Lock also proved less than optimal as a trench weapon. They quickly jammed up with mud and rust. S&W removed the 3rd lock, the shroud and the Hand Ejector Mark II was a good revolver. Canadian and British forces used them. The original calibers offered were 44 S&W Special, 44 WCF (44-40), 45 Long Colt, 450 Eley and 455 Webley. The US entered the WWI conflict in 1917. US military standard was 45 ACP in a Colt 1911. There weren't enough to go around. S&W engineers are credited with the invention of a stamped half moon clip that provided for the use of 45 ACP in a revolver. The ejector simply pushed out the half moon clips. 166,000 S&W 1917 revolvers were purchased. That is what I have.
 
Old Smith

Do Not shoot +P out of that gun no it won't below the gun up but it may damage the gun. The cylinder was heat treated for 38 spl. At the time that gun was manufactured the plant had two different heat treats 38 and below and Magnum. Yes it is N frame size gun. But heat teat is not only done on the cylinder but the rest of the gun. So shoot 38 spl and enjoy :)
 
Other random question:

I can't figure out how to remove the cynlinder and I don't want to hurt it. Is it not removeable, or am I not doing the right things? I haven't tried too hard as a solution does not seem immediately obvious.
 
On the right hand side (opposite the cylinder release) you'll see 2 screws just above the trigger. Use a well fitting, hollow ground screwdriver so you don't jimmy up the screw head. Remove the front screw. The front being the screw closest to the end of the barrel. Once the screw is removed then open the cylinder. Once it is fully swung out the cylinder and yoke will slide forward and off the frame.
I wouldn't recommend removing the cylinder too many times. If you jimmy the threads, over tighten the screw, lose the screw, whatever, it can cause you to say bad words and kick the dog.
OK now. You started this thread 2 weeks ago and you haven't told us. Don't keep us in suspense any longer. Good grief man! How long you going to keep us waiting? Tell us. How's it shoot?
 
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