Rust in my barrel

Mr.Guido and anyone else that said to clean with hot water or just plain water will clean these barrels is right and I agree with them. Then run dry patches down and up till you see nothing on the patch. Now you have a clean dry barrel just run a good oil down the barrel. It's so easy why people want to make it so hard is beyound me I only used bore butter and never had a problem with rust in over 30 yrs. I just started using Ballistol last year and it is good stuff I just use it now. If you stop and think about it what the folks did back 200 hundred yrs ago. I just bought a second hand TC New Englander for $125.00 inside of the barrel was rusted to where I thought I was going to haft to replace it. Got to asking around how to get all that rust out and someone told me to try Evapo Rust Rust Remover.com You plug the nipple end up and pour it in the barrel up to the top Then leave it 24 hrs and pour it out and it will look black meaning it was finished eating the rust not the steel in the barrel flushed it out with hot water and run dry patches down the barrel till dry and coat with oil. Barrel will come out factory new. Buy the way this stuff cost about $30.00. So I went to Advance Auto and found a product called WD40 Specialist Rust Removal & Dissolver comes in a gallon jug and cost $30.00 works the same way as the other so I got it and did just what I said above for 24 hrs if the rust is really bad go for another 24 hrs. Lets face it if the barrel has been eaten up by the rust nothen will fix it. Most of the time it's just coated with the rust and no harm is done. If people that want to shot these old guns would learn water, scrub, oil, they wouldn't have these problems. I hope this can help someone. If not than you could say I talk to much. :rolleyes:
 
I use Pyrodex. I clean with soapy water and WD-40, lube the bore with Bore Butter and have no rust or brown whatever.
 
I ususally use plain water and pump in in and out of the barrel until patches on the jag come out clean. Then I spray WD-40 in the barrel and run more patches down to dry the barrel. Then for long term protection, I use RIG.

I spray the WD-40 in while the bore is still wet, the WD-40 actually wets the steel and lifts the water off the steel. This prevents flash rusting that occurs when wet steel dries off. I learned this from washing freshly honed engine cylinders. If you wash them clean and then let them dry, as soon as they dry, a layer of flash rust forms, if you spray them with WD-40 before they are dry, no flash rust.

You can also hook an air hose from an aquarium aerator to the nipple and let the air pump run all night to make sure that any remaining moisture in the bore evaporates. Storing the gun muzzle down is also good.
 
Windex will clean out anything in the barrel and will dry quickly. I think what you might have is a seasoning problem. Any one who has been around cast iron cook pans will tell you that you have to season the pans or they will rust on you, no matter how clean they are. The best two ways of doing this, without damage to the rifle, is to draw boiling water up the barrel from a pan of boiling water, until the barrel is as hot as you can get it, and follow micheal cj's advice about the gloves. Then while the barrel is still hot, use a dry patch down the barrel as quickly as possible followed by a saturated patch of olive oil or cooking oil. Let the oil stand until the barrel has cooled then remove the oil residue with a dry patch or two. Repeat the process every 2 or 3 hunting seasons or trips to the range and you will find the rifle not only cleans easier but your bullets will tend to go down better without much clean-up between shots.
I don't ever use any kind of solvent in my barrels because it removes the seasoning from the barrel. Hot soapy water is all you need when you clean up at home, and windex at the range will work fine for between shots.

Seasoning can also be done at the range by shooting rounds as fast as you can until the barrel becomes hot to the touch, then put cooking oil in the barrel and clean out after it cools. The cooking oil will penetrate the powder residue and will be pretty gunky when you clean, but the seasoning will result in the same way.

If you treat your barrel just like a cast iron skillet, you won't have any problems with dusty brown stuff.
 
Incredible that old myth is still around.

The STEEL used in gun barrels is nothing like the metal in a CAST IRON frying pan. There's no such thing as 'seasoning' a gun barrel.
 
ROFLMAO
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"this is not necessarily a problem if the surface becomes thoroughly dry and is then coated with a good rust preventative; the coating process will remove the flash rust while laying down the protective barrier. "

Basically what is described above is a short way of saying "Seasoned"

Iron is a basic element known as "Fe" on the element chart.
Steel is Iron that has had a certain percentage of Carbon added to it, which forms an Iron/Iron carbide alloy.

Stainless steel is steel which has had other metals alloyed such as chromium, vanadium, and others, to create different hardness, and characteristics.

So your mother's Iron skillet is a lot closer to your rifle barrel than you might think.
I own 7 different type's of Ml's from several companies, and I have done all of them the same way as I described. Whether my way is right or wrong is of no importance to anyone but me, but I can tell you I have had NO problems with rust or brown dust in any of my rifles or pistols (or mama's skillets) in the last 50 years.
 
I'm glad all your guns are rust free and certain that you take good care of them. Your process of thoroughly cleaning and then oiling the metal is an excellent one, as evidenced by the results you have achieved. However, you are not 'seasoning' the metal in the sense that your, and my relatives seasoned their cast iron cookware, nor is that 'seasoning' the reason for your success.

I'm well aware of the composition of metals used in modern firearms, including the replica black powder firearms currently being manufactured. I'm also well aware of the composition of cast iron. Yes, both contain elemental iron, but beyond that there is absolutely no resemblance. You might just as well say that water and alcohol are closely related because both contain elemental hydrogen.
 
After using a cleaning method of your choice, wax the barrel with Johnsons paste wax.Apply to clean patch work well full length of the barrel.I quit using oil on my guns 20 years ago.Oil migrates and protects for a limited amount of time,don't care how much you spent on the oil it will migrate removing the protection it once afforded.Museums wax their guns inside and out,I have done this to all of my guns B/P and smokeless for years never a spot of anything,finger prints just wipe away leaving no acids to rust the metal.
 
Steel is Iron that has had a certain percentage of Carbon added to it, which forms an Iron/Iron carbide alloy.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify for those who may not be familiar with the steel making process, cast iron has a much higher carbon content than "high carbon" steel.

The reason that carbon is added to the iron in steel is that it is much easier to separate the undesirable elements from iron by removing all of the non-iron impurities as opposed to trying to selectively remove some. The carbon is then reintroduced in much lower levels than those present in cast iron.
 
209 primer: some brands too hot for TC barrels?

Yeah, I have rust inside my barrel. It's a TC Impact, my first and possibly only muzzleloader until a fully stainless steel one is made.

I stopped using TC and Tradition cleaning products. I noticed massive rust development after I used their natural lube products. I now use a black powder solvent, brass brushes, and then use normal gun oil on a patch when done. The gun oil seems to make a bit better difference when I am storing the gun.

Recently, I was posed with the idea that the 209 primer I am using may be too hot for this barrel. I have been using Federal 209A which is among the hottest firing of the primers I have access to. I'm thinking I may use some weaker primers like CCI but the reality is that the damage is done so if this works then all I'm doing is preventing the damage from increasing.

Thoughts on this hypothesis???
 
Go at the slightly rusted barrel with some JB bore paste (per instructions), then clean completely
using both oil-based solvent and final soap/hot water.

Thoroughly oil the bore down w/ a couple of patches of BreakFree CLP (or WeaponShield) then oil it down again the next morning.
You're done -- and should not have a problem again as long as final step is BreakFree or its equivalent.

Forget "bore butter." (!!!)
All it's comprised of is bees wax, olive oil, yellow food color and a pinch of Wintergreen for smell.
 
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Forget Bore Butter, seasoning barrels, and primers causing problems and brushes need to go. The best barrel cleaner is water.

I have been shooting M/L since 1974 and do not have rust in my barrels.

Use tap water at room temperature. hot water causes "FLASH" rust.

Flush the barrel with tepid water and dish water soap until clean. After cleaning, swab the barrel with patches until dry, check patches on your lips for moisture. Plug the nipple with finger or something and pour alcohol down the barrel and swish back and forth with your finger plugging the end of the barrel to remove any remaining water. Swab the barrel with patches until dry, check patches patches on your lips for moisture, continue until dry.

Swab the barrel with 3 in 1 oil or Barricade.

You will not have rust.

Barrels need oil or RIG to protect them, they are not skillets.
 
I have been shooting BP for over 30 years, made my share of mistakes, learned a lot form my elders, and have researched on the web. I use nothing but T/C #13 and Bore Butter. These are all natural products, no petroleum ingredients. To me using all natural makes sense. I don't think there were many in the 18th and 19th centuries who had access to petroleum lubes so they used what they had, usually something they rendered from animal fat.It served them well so why not me? In my opinion you can "season" a barrel as all metal is porous. I think of seasoning a barrel for a ML is the same as breaking in a center fire barrel, it's a on going process with ever shot you take. The brown dust you see when swabbing the bore is the residue left after the bore butter has dried as it is water based. I wish I had a dollar for ever friend who has called me saying the had ruined their rifle with bore butter. Talk to a competition BP shooter and ask them why they are allowed a fouling shot before competing. Their bores are seasoned to the point that if they don't take a fouling shot, the first on target will be a flyer. Just my opinion based on my experiences.
 
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