Rust...HELP

K

Kvon2

New member
So due to a lack of space I recently moved my two stack on cabinets to the basement in our utility room. I know it's not ideal but it's my best option currently. Today I took a few out and noticed some surface rust. Needless to say I cleaned and oiled them all.

I typically clean after every range trip, I use hoppes solvent and lubricant, and then on the outside of the guns I wipe them down with rem oil wipes. I also keep silica beads in the two cabinets.

Should I look for a dehumidifier? Add regular preventative maintenance cleaning? Try a new oil? Or do I need to just find them a new home in the house?

Thanks!
 
Per the article I linked, the author found, after testing 46 products simultaneously, that the best was a WD product
 
...and it turns out that the link I provided is to the same test (but on another website) that FITASC provided.
...the best was a WD product.
Click to expand...
Well, sorta. WD-40 Specialist (not standard WD-40) was one of the three top performers in the corrosion protection testing.
 
We live with very high humidity for most of the year.
I've been using motor oil and wrap the guns in a silicone soaked cotton rag.
Seems to work pretty good.
 
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I recommend eezox, This stuff whups rust ass.

In the mean time to get rid of surface rust try a piece of denim, If it's very fresh and light that might be enough.. if not then hit it with some bronze wool, It wont scratch your finish but it will leave a copper streak behind.. just deal with it, it'll wear off.

hit it with eezox, for best effect heat the metal up with a heatgun/blowdrier first, apply eezox, then let it sit for an hour then it it with blowdrier/heatgun again to help dry up excess eezox, you want a thin coat, not dripping you actually want the eezox to dry.

unless you're storing them in a fish tank that should do it for quite some time.

Break Free CLP seems to work just as good as eezox but I can only say for sure in the short term.. I think long term it might actually attract moisture

If you don't mind cleaning say every few weeks the break free is a lot easier to find in stores.. I usually get my eezox off ebay I can look up the seller I use if you're interested (and they're still in business.. 1 can lasts a few years so been a while since I bought)
 
Right. My comment was about the fact that the person who ran the experiment didn't appear to actually pick "the best" product from the ones tested. In the corrosion tests, specifically, there were three products ranked at the top but there was no attempt to rank those three compared to each other as far as I could tell. They appeared to be listed in alphabetical order.

Also, the overall test consisted of a number of tests, not just corrosion tests and WD-40 Specialist did not rank especially high outside of the corrosion tests.

It did do very well in the corrosion tests, but even there I couldn't find anything that suggested it was "the best".
 
What do we think about final drive oil/shaft drive oil? I previously owned a motorcycle that was shaft drive and that oil lasted a long time. No idea if it would be safe to use though?
 
It would certainly be safe to use and would provide good lubrication--although it's probably a little thick for gun oil.

Generally speaking, automotive products don't provide the same level of corrosion protection that the top-of-the-line gun products do. Look at where the automotive products scored in the test FITASC linked to.

If you want to use an automotive product for corrosion protection, ATF is probably about as good as you're going to do. Not that it's all that good compared to the best gun products--but it's about as good as you can do with an automotive product.
 
I might give it a shot in combination with a small dehumidifier.


While still using the silica gel as well!
 
Ok. But based on the test results it's not likely to provide better performance than the Rem Oil you were using when you had the rusting.
 
Wipe with RIG , then wrap with VIP rust inhibiting paper. One advantage is that the gun will be ready to use without any cleaning !
 
But based on the test results it's not likely to provide better performance than the Rem Oil you were using when you had the rusting.
Click to expand...

Completely agree however I will add the use of the dehumidifier and my guns won't be sitting outside on a table while it rains or anything else. And I'll be much more attentive to this so if it doesn't work I'll move on to another product. Given the cost I don't see much risk.
 
A dehumidifier is the real practical idea. Maake sure it is large enough for the total space and put seal strips on the doors.
If you have moisture seeping through the block or other walls you can buy coatings applied with designed for rollers and brushes to get into the pores and lave a nice level surface. Mix fungacide available at Home Depot etc, for the paint.
a Light in the cabinet helps but Dehumidifier works great. Just place it on a non combustible surface and hook a garden type hose to the drain, otherwise you will have to empty the bucket, depending on humidity quite often. It will cost you over two hundred but ours has lasted for five years s thus far and no hickups.Cleaned the air filter several times is all and poured some bleach down the hose but no signs of algae etc in the unit. A thermometer humidistat is hanging near the door.
 
You may try another oil for the easy way out...I've been using Penn fishing reel oil (the latest synthetic version) on a few guns and its protects longer than Rem Oil or Hoppes Elite Oil. I still use all three on various guns.

Wax may work for you. There are a few out there that shooters use but paste types won't penetrate deep into cracks and crannies so you still have to oil those areas. I've been using Howards Feed N Wax going on 15 yrs on a shotgun used for hunting in salt marshes. It's a mixture of oil and wax. The oil penetrates crevices and a dry wax coating is left behind. Many gun owners use and like it.

A Golden Rod in the cabinet will take care of the moisture too. You can also make a dehumidifier by mounting a light bulb socket with bulb on a wood platform and a large metal soup can over the bulb to protect it. Open both ends of the can and suspend with brackets on the mount so air can circulate in from the bottom and out the top. A 25w bulb will keep a refrigerator size safe dry. I made one and it worked fine in a non-air conditioned space in Florida. I used an electric portable dehumidifier in a room once and it was noisy and a constant pain in the axx to drain and keep. In my opinion is total overkill for a gun safe where a golden rod or light bulb will do it.

Good luck.
 
So I went to advance Auto today to get motor oil(for our cars actually) and also picked up final drive fluid. Great deals on Castrol products right now just btw.

I got home and opened up the cabinets to get to work and the silica packs were already dried up and ready to be changed after 1 day...I guess my project next weekend will be finding them a new home
 
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