Ruger vaquero 45
- Thread starter rjlencioni
- Start date
All Ruger SA's can experience this regardless of which one. It is rare and easily fixed in most cases. Most times, heavy loads will 'bring to light' the problem (if there is one) more than light loads.
Either one will work fine. More of your 'taste'. The Ruger New Vaquero is a 'modern' SA. The other is more traditional (loading 5 instead of 6, flat springs, half cock to load, etc). That said, right now I have all Rugers, but keep 'meaning' to pick up a real SAA ....
To me, there's a big difference between Colt style actions and Ruger New Models. I prefer the Colt style action and would take the Uberti over the Ruger. No, I don't believe the Ruger is "better".
https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=54
Well, if we're using Buffalo Bore loads as an example:
https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=54
It can. If it does, step one is to STOP SHOOTING IT and cure the problem. Don't stick it back in there and keep shooting.
Cure one is to boost the spring pressure in the latch. When you order a spring kit from Wolff or the like they usually include a stronger cross-spring to put in the latch.
Cure two is a new base pin that has a locking set screw in the head, but that probably won't be needed because most of the aftermarket pins are higher quality than stock (Bowen and Belt Mountain in particular).
Driftwood Johnson
New member
Howdy
ALL single action revolvers with a base pin secured by a transverse, spring loaded latch can have the pin back out from recoil. Colt, Ruger, or clone. And it does not have to be handloads. My first experience with this happening was with my 45 Colt Blackhawk and standard factory loads. With a Ruger, there is a spring plunger at the rear of the cylinder pin. The purpose of the spring plunger is to shove the transfer bar rearward as it rises, so it does not hang up under the frame mounted firing pin. If the pin jumps forward, the spring plunger no longer pushes the transfer bar back, and it can jam under the firing pin, which is exactly what was happening to my Blackhawk. Took me a little bit to figure out what was going on.
I have also had this happen with my 2nd Gen Colts, and a couple of Uberti Cattlemen. Yes, full power Black Powder loads with their heavy recoil can make things worse, but the first time it happened was with factory loads in my Blackhawk.
There are three solutions to the problem.
1. Put in a stronger spring.
2. Replace the cylinder pin with one from Belt Mountain.
3. Fit the pin properly to the latch.
The real reason this usually happens is the latch is not properly fitted to the recess in the pin. Stronger springs and new pins will address the symptoms, but the real cause is the latch does not engage the recess in the pin properly.
I have replaced the pins in my old Blackhawk, two Vaqueros, one clone and three Colts with Belt Mountain pins. I also had to fit the pins a bit in some of these guns to completely stop the pins from jumping out.
Belt Mountain also makes pins with a locking set screw. I do not recommend this option. It is too easy to lose the tiny allen wrench for the screw, and overtorquing the screw slightly will bend the pin just enough to cause binding. Been there, done that.
Here is a photo of a standard pin in front and a Belt Mountain pin in the rear. I think the standard pin is a Ruger, but I'm not entirely sure at this point. Notice the Belt Mountain pin only has a recess cut across the pin, while the standard pin has a groove going completely around the pin. The Belt Mountain design is better, because it leaves more surface area for the latch to engage. Notice there is a tiny flange on the Belt Mountain pin. There is a clearance cut on that flange, not visible in this photo. The clearance cut is for the barrel, to keep the slot aligned to the latch. Yes, it is easy to accidentally jam the pin in place when replacing it if you are not careful to line it up.
One other thing. The 'original model' Vaquero and New Model Blackhawks had a pin long enough that it could not accidentally fall out. In fact, to remove the pin you had to take the ejector housing off to clear the pin. New Vaqueros, Colts, and clones have shorter pins, and they will happily fall out of the gun and get lost in the grass at the worst time.
ALL single action revolvers with a base pin secured by a transverse, spring loaded latch can have the pin back out from recoil. Colt, Ruger, or clone. And it does not have to be handloads. My first experience with this happening was with my 45 Colt Blackhawk and standard factory loads. With a Ruger, there is a spring plunger at the rear of the cylinder pin. The purpose of the spring plunger is to shove the transfer bar rearward as it rises, so it does not hang up under the frame mounted firing pin. If the pin jumps forward, the spring plunger no longer pushes the transfer bar back, and it can jam under the firing pin, which is exactly what was happening to my Blackhawk. Took me a little bit to figure out what was going on.
I have also had this happen with my 2nd Gen Colts, and a couple of Uberti Cattlemen. Yes, full power Black Powder loads with their heavy recoil can make things worse, but the first time it happened was with factory loads in my Blackhawk.
There are three solutions to the problem.
1. Put in a stronger spring.
2. Replace the cylinder pin with one from Belt Mountain.
3. Fit the pin properly to the latch.
The real reason this usually happens is the latch is not properly fitted to the recess in the pin. Stronger springs and new pins will address the symptoms, but the real cause is the latch does not engage the recess in the pin properly.
I have replaced the pins in my old Blackhawk, two Vaqueros, one clone and three Colts with Belt Mountain pins. I also had to fit the pins a bit in some of these guns to completely stop the pins from jumping out.
Belt Mountain also makes pins with a locking set screw. I do not recommend this option. It is too easy to lose the tiny allen wrench for the screw, and overtorquing the screw slightly will bend the pin just enough to cause binding. Been there, done that.
Here is a photo of a standard pin in front and a Belt Mountain pin in the rear. I think the standard pin is a Ruger, but I'm not entirely sure at this point. Notice the Belt Mountain pin only has a recess cut across the pin, while the standard pin has a groove going completely around the pin. The Belt Mountain design is better, because it leaves more surface area for the latch to engage. Notice there is a tiny flange on the Belt Mountain pin. There is a clearance cut on that flange, not visible in this photo. The clearance cut is for the barrel, to keep the slot aligned to the latch. Yes, it is easy to accidentally jam the pin in place when replacing it if you are not careful to line it up.
One other thing. The 'original model' Vaquero and New Model Blackhawks had a pin long enough that it could not accidentally fall out. In fact, to remove the pin you had to take the ejector housing off to clear the pin. New Vaqueros, Colts, and clones have shorter pins, and they will happily fall out of the gun and get lost in the grass at the worst time.