I don't have the 4.2", but I have the 3" 357.
Years ago, I was on a Ruger forum, and there was a guy there whose handle was Iowegan. I believe he was a retired gunsmith and he wrote these "Books of Knowledge" on Rugers. Once a member had a certain seniority level without too much trouble, the member could download those.
I got one and did his home tune job, which consisted of replacing the stock springs with aftermarket ones, and polishing certain internal components in certain areas. It was like a whole new gun. STILL not like an old K frame S&W, though. Or even a GP100, as JohnK said.
I radius the edges of the trigger; as they were too sharp for a comfortable DA pull. I also polished the sides of the hammer while I had it apart; tarted it up a bit to give some indication that it is special now.
I've had that gun for many years now. It went through a stint in a damp apartment basement and has some big blotches of rust now on the side of the frame, that really galls, but it's my fault. I've thought about getting rid of it, but I just can't. It shoots so well and is smooth, for an SP-101. I really spent some money and put a CTC laser grip on it. That's fun at the indoor range and might come into play with a nighttime intruder, but it's also nice that it makes room for the pinky. The standard SP-101 grip (for my hand) is too small for four fingers and too big for three. It's just a bad size. It was stupid of Ruger to just scale down the GP100 grip without putting more thought into it. Chintzy to do away with the ball bearings, too.
A new S&W J frame has a smoother trigger pull, but it stacks more and is heavier. On these small revolvers, its those coiled hammer springs that hold them back from greatness. I often wonder why they didn't just miniaturize the leaf-type hammer spring from the K frame and fine tune its thickness, so it could rival a K frame...
So this is what it needs, in my opinion, to be a Good Gun:
Well, that'll give you some stuff to think about.
Years ago, I was on a Ruger forum, and there was a guy there whose handle was Iowegan. I believe he was a retired gunsmith and he wrote these "Books of Knowledge" on Rugers. Once a member had a certain seniority level without too much trouble, the member could download those.
I got one and did his home tune job, which consisted of replacing the stock springs with aftermarket ones, and polishing certain internal components in certain areas. It was like a whole new gun. STILL not like an old K frame S&W, though. Or even a GP100, as JohnK said.
I radius the edges of the trigger; as they were too sharp for a comfortable DA pull. I also polished the sides of the hammer while I had it apart; tarted it up a bit to give some indication that it is special now.
I've had that gun for many years now. It went through a stint in a damp apartment basement and has some big blotches of rust now on the side of the frame, that really galls, but it's my fault. I've thought about getting rid of it, but I just can't. It shoots so well and is smooth, for an SP-101. I really spent some money and put a CTC laser grip on it. That's fun at the indoor range and might come into play with a nighttime intruder, but it's also nice that it makes room for the pinky. The standard SP-101 grip (for my hand) is too small for four fingers and too big for three. It's just a bad size. It was stupid of Ruger to just scale down the GP100 grip without putting more thought into it. Chintzy to do away with the ball bearings, too.
A new S&W J frame has a smoother trigger pull, but it stacks more and is heavier. On these small revolvers, its those coiled hammer springs that hold them back from greatness. I often wonder why they didn't just miniaturize the leaf-type hammer spring from the K frame and fine tune its thickness, so it could rival a K frame...
So this is what it needs, in my opinion, to be a Good Gun:
- Radius the edges of the trigger
- Polish the internals where they rub together
- Install a lighter hammer spring and trigger return spring (Wolff or maybe Wilson)
- Replace grips with something proper; either accommodate the pinky or don't. Pretty wood or cushioned rubber.
Well, that'll give you some stuff to think about.
Last edited: