Ruger sp101 357 4.2 barrel.

Gulfcowboy

New member
I wanted to see if anyone on here has a ruger sp 101 in 357 magnum with a 4.2 in barrel. If someone does how do you like it? I have just put one on layaway. I watched gunblasts Jeff say it was his favorite barrel length for the sp101 in 357. I like the fact it has ajustable sights. I'm thinking of carrying while on horseback. With it's slimmer lighter profile I think it would excel for that application.
 
One of many, good choices.

Personally, I think it's a good choice and gets even better, with a trigger job. Will you be shooting mostly .357 or .38 as well? Have you handled a GP100?

Be Safe !!!
 
I have handled a gp100. They are abit heavy for me. I own a 4in s&w 686. Ill probably use 38 plus p more than anything. Any recommendations on places to do the Trigger job?
 
Should not be a problem ...

Any recommendations on places to do the Trigger job?
You don't have to look very far, to find a local "Smith" that can do the job and kits are readily available. If you are fairly handy, you could do it yourself. That is what I did. I live in Iowa and I'm guessing you would have better luck, locating one in Texas. I got started by watching a video, on YouTube. Also, ask the shop where you bought the shop where you bought this. ... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
I have one and I real enjoy shooting it. I like the 4" barrel and believe that in the minimum length barrel to get the full benefit of a 357 round. I believe you will enjoy your gun.
 
@Gulfcowboy: I'm excited for you. Your 4 inch, .357 SP101 will make a fine trail field gun for you. I have a 4 inch, .32 H&R SP101, and a 2 1/4 inch, .357 blued steel SP101. I bought the shorter barreled revolver as a sort of "kit" gun. I wouldn't want to part with either revolver.

As for the trigger work, my advice is: "What Pahoo said". The modular design and construction somewhat limit what can be done to improve the trigger. The most improvement can be done by simply changing the hammer spring and the trigger return spring, and you do not necessarily need a gunsmith to do that. As "Pahoo" noted, there are many youtube videos which can walk you through the spring changes if you have a modicum of mechanical ability. The factory hammer spring is 14 pounds and the factory trigger return spring is 10 pounds. Wolff sells a SP101 spring kit, which contains an 8 pound trigger return spring, and 12, 10, and 9 pound hammer springs. Midway shows the wolff kit as out of stock, but wolff shows them in stock on their website. You could order them directly on-line from wolff for about 10 bucks (if I remember the price correctly). I used the 8 pound trigger return spring, and the 12 pound hammer spring. I did not install the 9 or 10 pound hammer springs because people have reported light strikes and misfires from the lighter hammer springs. It did not seem to me that trading reliability for a lighter hammer pull was a good bargain. I have had NO misfires with the lighter 12 pound hammer spring.

There is also a trigger return plunger which travels in a .250 inch diameter hole in the trigger/triggerguard assembly. On both of my guns it looked like the hole had been drilled by a rasp. I de-burred the hole, and then polished it with some very fine jeweler's rouge. The plungers then travelled smoothly in the channel. Whether that helped or not, I don't know. Again, all these things are usually covered in the youtube videos.

Some people will also shim the hammer on the SP101, in order to prevent the hammer from dragging against the frame. You can get SP101 shim kits from "TriggerShims.com". However, I haven't done that. I don't know if hammer shimming is worth it, and so I may or may not do that sometime down the road. In any case...Lucky you! I know you will enjoy your new revolver.
 
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You won't get as good a DA trigger on the SP101 as you can on the GP100 for a couple of reasons. For one thing, the cylinder on the GP100 is on ball bearings, the SP101 has a friction bearing. Also, the bigger size of the GP100 means more leverage is possible in the design.

That said, you can make some improvements.

If you change the trigger return spring and/or the main spring, be sure to carefully test the gun in DA mode. The hammer fall is slightly less energetic in DA and you want to be sure you don't compromise reliability. As far as the trigger return spring goes, if you lighten it, you will want to get used to the reset with the lighter spring when shooting rapid DA.
 
It’s easy to enhance the trigger pull yourself. Go to Trigger Shims.com and get their kit. If you have any questions give them a call, they’re probably the most helpful friendly people you’ll ever deal with. Just remember, when it comes to polishing any surfaces go lightly, it doesn’t take much to get the job done. And yes, using the shims and getting the proper size shims does make a difference. My GP100 rivals the best S&W in single action and surpasses them in double action. I used Flitz on a soft fabric wheel with my Dremel and it only took a minute or so to polish each surface sufficiently.
 
I put in a spring kit ?Wolf? and compared it to a stock SP side by side. Little to no difference. From that experience I'd say a spring kit is useless unless you get in there with a Dremel, which I intend to do.
 
@jetinteriorguy: Thanks for the positive testimony about the hammer shims. I wasn't sure about how effective they would be, but now based on your experience, I'll give them a try. The hammer shims are pretty inexpensive and should be simple and quick to install.
 
If you change the trigger return spring and/or the main spring, be sure to carefully test the gun in DA mode. The hammer fall is slightly less energetic in DA and you want to be sure you don't compromise reliability. As far as the trigger return spring goes, if you lighten it, you will want to get used to the reset with the lighter spring when shooting rapid DA.

Absolutely correct^^^^^^^
I have a GP-100 and a Match Champion both have spring kits installed and both are competition used guns. Both have the lightest springs installed being 8# and 10#. Many folks have stated going with the 10# and 12# springs for reliability of function that will shoot factory ammo is right on the money. I reload and use federal primers for my revolvers. Dry firing will help smoothen the trigger pull also. If you do install lighter springs make sure to test the reliability with whatever ammo you will be using
 
Friend has one of the sp 101 snubbies in 357. I have shot it several times great little gun. Handled full power 357 surprisingly well for its size.

I have had gp 100s in both 4 and 6in, still have and love my 6in but both are amazing guns. Just large and heavy. If i was going to carry a 357 it would be a sp 101
 
I have a 3” 357 SP-101. I polished up the internals that Ruger couldn’t be bothered to do and put in the Wolff springer kit. It’s very good now, but not GP-100 good. Or Redhawk good. Good for a little revolver.
 
I have several variations of the SP101 and though I enjoy them, ever since I got a Kimber k6s the SP101 has lost a lot of time in the carrying rotation. The SP101 is a beefy carry revolver compared to S&W counterparts. The k6s is about the same size but you get an additional round and a trigger that is quite noticeably better than the SP101.

The SP101 is good, don't get me wrong. But before purchasing one I would encourage you to at least explore the Kimber k6s. Just my two cents.
 
Great little revolvers

Kimber k6s the SP101 has lost a lot of time in the carrying rotation.
Gunner;
I was going to mention the K6 but wanted to stay, on point. I totally agree and they are worth every dollar/dollars. ...... :rolleyes:

As replied earlier, I have done three GP's with improved perforance/results. I too have polished and de-burred some of the internals. Perfromance is proportional to the investment. ... ;)

Now, back to the SP, Have not done one but plan on doing a .22 which they say is a bigger challenge that the .357. If it works out I should have a nifty shooter.

Be Safe !!!
 
Can't argue the point !!!

If you aren't going to work on it, the SP line has one of if not the worst triggers of any make or model revolver today...
Yeh, not just "MHO"

Be Safe !!!
 
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