Ruger Redhawk Common Problems
- Thread starter rc
- Start date
That's CATOSTROPHIC!
MKK41, it seems like you have found the weak link in the redhawks loadproof design. These guns are touted for strenth (and reliability) but if you put so much mettle in the topstrap/frame and cylinder without supporting the barrel BOOM there goes your gun. I guess that's why we have a super redhawk now
Seems that ruger knew they needed more threaded barrel for really hot loads. I think I'm going to hunt for a California consignment S&W model 29 with a 5 or 6 inch barrel and the hammer mounted firing pin. We can still legally buy them if they are in the state and someone is selling.... I think a 29 will be plenty strong for any load I care to fire. I have NEVER had a misfire with my 686 and the action has always been smooth except that 1 time a piece of gravel from a sandbag at the range ended up falling in the action. Needless to say I learnt how to take a S&W apart and put it back together again. Not something I want to do very often. My SP101 was much easier to break down and reassemble. But then it was really rough from the factory
. Smoothest revolver I have now
MKK41, it seems like you have found the weak link in the redhawks loadproof design. These guns are touted for strenth (and reliability) but if you put so much mettle in the topstrap/frame and cylinder without supporting the barrel BOOM there goes your gun. I guess that's why we have a super redhawk now
Seems that ruger knew they needed more threaded barrel for really hot loads. I think I'm going to hunt for a California consignment S&W model 29 with a 5 or 6 inch barrel and the hammer mounted firing pin. We can still legally buy them if they are in the state and someone is selling.... I think a 29 will be plenty strong for any load I care to fire. I have NEVER had a misfire with my 686 and the action has always been smooth except that 1 time a piece of gravel from a sandbag at the range ended up falling in the action. Needless to say I learnt how to take a S&W apart and put it back together again. Not something I want to do very often. My SP101 was much easier to break down and reassemble. But then it was really rough from the factory. Smoothest revolver I have now
Nakanokalronin
New member
Wish someone knew what load/reload went through the broken barrel up above in the picture.
I own a 5.5in. barreled Redhawk in 45Lc and have had no light strikes as of yet. BTW, anyone know where to get factory (Ruger I'm sure) or extra power hammer spring for the Redhawks? Wolff only sells reduced power springs which I think is strange. Usually they have an option for a factory spring but they only reference the factory rating as 17lbs.
I own a 5.5in. barreled Redhawk in 45Lc and have had no light strikes as of yet. BTW, anyone know where to get factory (Ruger I'm sure) or extra power hammer spring for the Redhawks? Wolff only sells reduced power springs which I think is strange. Usually they have an option for a factory spring but they only reference the factory rating as 17lbs.
Nakanokalronin
New member
Thanks.
They don't make em' in this barrel length anymore so I'm glad I snatched it from the used section of LGS when I did. I've shot some 330gr. Corbon +P loads and it handled them with no problem, but it is a heck of a kick.
They don't make em' in this barrel length anymore so I'm glad I snatched it from the used section of LGS when I did. I've shot some 330gr. Corbon +P loads and it handled them with no problem, but it is a heck of a kick.
dreissiger
Inactive
Hi Sarge, as requested. Enjoy!
Not quite true. The problem shown in that pic was related to a thread lubrication issue that caused damage to the barrel shank upon assembly (paraphrasing, been a while since I read the details). Ruger did bring out the Super Redhawk thinking the problem was a design defect, but once they discovered the root cause and corrected it, the problem never occurred again. The only reason to get a Super Redhawk today is improved scope mounting, a more traditional 2-spring action, and a grip stud that gives you more options for grips. Brute strength is not a factor.
Not a load issue. A too-hot load would burst the cylinder first.
Chris
Nakanokalronin
New member
Still wouldn't mind load/reload info plus anything else about it so we could know the whole story.
ETA: Never mind, found it: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310125
The owner bought it used and fired one light hand load in there and the barrel blew off? Sounds a little fishy to me. Seems who every traded it in to the store knew something. Either way it was from a problem with the lube they used when torquing the barrels down.
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I picked up a 4" Redhawk this past spring and noticed when I was dry-firing it that the hammer seemed to strike lighter than maybe it should and that lock time was might be a little slower than what I've noticed on other revolvers. I asked a friend about it who played with it a bit and said that it had enough energy to smack a primer. So far so good as it has gone BOOM every time I've squeezed the trigger on cowboy loads and heavy hitters. But the lock time still seems a little slow to me. Mebbe it's my imagination. I live in brunosaur country and it's purpose is a trail and sleeping bag/tent security.
Rockhanger
New member
I've had mine 20+ years. Never any problems
I have a Redhawk in .45 Colt with this problem too. I've ultimately taken about .005" off the hammer step face, anymore and I think I would loose clearance between the hammer, transfer bar and frame. Right now the transfer bar can move freely up or down with the hammer resting against the frame.
When the firing pin is depressed I have about .002" clearance between it and the rear of the cylinder. Given the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the frame is .062" I'm assuming the firing pin protrusion is .060", max on the specs from what I've been able to find out.
I'm using Starline brass with WLP primers.
I'm still getting light strikes, often one or two per cylinder. I don't consider switching to softer primers a reasonable solution.
My transfer bar covers the firing pin. There is no divot in the transfer bar where the it strikes the firing pin. Given all of this I have to assume I'm getting the full force of the hammer against the firing pin.
I even put a spacer of about .060" in the hammer spring, thinking that might increase the strike force. No joy.
Has anyone found or tried extra power hammer springs? I'm at a loss as to what to try next.
When the firing pin is depressed I have about .002" clearance between it and the rear of the cylinder. Given the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the frame is .062" I'm assuming the firing pin protrusion is .060", max on the specs from what I've been able to find out.
I'm using Starline brass with WLP primers.
I'm still getting light strikes, often one or two per cylinder. I don't consider switching to softer primers a reasonable solution.
My transfer bar covers the firing pin. There is no divot in the transfer bar where the it strikes the firing pin. Given all of this I have to assume I'm getting the full force of the hammer against the firing pin.
I even put a spacer of about .060" in the hammer spring, thinking that might increase the strike force. No joy.
Has anyone found or tried extra power hammer springs? I'm at a loss as to what to try next.
"Bowen offers an extended firing pin."
Yes, I see that they offer that as part of a package but not as a single item. I could call them and see if they would do it, but at this point I don't think it's the firing pin. They say the specs are .055" to .060" and i think mine is within that.
They also mention a "heavy-duty, extra-pressure mainspring" which is what I'd like to try next, but I can't seem to find anyone that offers one for sale.
Yes, I see that they offer that as part of a package but not as a single item. I could call them and see if they would do it, but at this point I don't think it's the firing pin. They say the specs are .055" to .060" and i think mine is within that.
They also mention a "heavy-duty, extra-pressure mainspring" which is what I'd like to try next, but I can't seem to find anyone that offers one for sale.
Retraction!
Bowen does offer the firing pin and extra power springs for sale separately, I just hadn't dug deeply enough in their website.
I spoke with a very helpful gentleman there, explained my woes, and he said given what I've already done the only other thing to try would be the extra heavy duty springs they offer. I now have a pair (30# and 40#) on the way. My fingers are crossed!
Bowen does offer the firing pin and extra power springs for sale separately, I just hadn't dug deeply enough in their website.
I spoke with a very helpful gentleman there, explained my woes, and he said given what I've already done the only other thing to try would be the extra heavy duty springs they offer. I now have a pair (30# and 40#) on the way. My fingers are crossed!