Ruger Redhawk Common Problems

R

rc

New member
It seems from the web searches that I've done Redhawk revolvers have above average instances of primer light strikes with factory springs. I find that particularly in double action that my redhawk will tend to light strike and not set off rounds. I've read that removing just a tad off the top of the hammer has been a proven cure for this condition. How many people have had problems with their redhawks? I've never experienced anything like this with my SP101 that I've had more than 5 years and thousands of rounds down range or my New GP100 which has seen several hundred rounds fired. I hate the look of the super redhawk, but I'm wondering if it was invented in part because the lockwork which is similar to the SP101 and GP series is much improved over the standard redhawk. I'd like to get my redhawk running 100% but haven't removed any mettle yet:eek: So how many readers here have had light strike problems with the redhawk?
 
30+ years of owning a Redhawk/Super Redhawk in some configuration I have not had any problems with light primer strikes. I do use spring kits.
 
No light strikes here, even with a spring kit installed.

I have had the staking of the cylinder release pivot screw fail, that screw back out a bit and eliminate the trigger/hammer interlock (not particularly a bad thing, as the gun still works.) Can't see any possible connection with light strikes, though.
 
The words "Redhawk" and "problems" in the same sentence is an oxymoron.
I have had and shot mine for 20 years. I handload and have put thousands and thousands of rounds through mine. Never a failure.
If ever a more rugged or reliable handgun has ever been made it might only be the Super Redhawk.
 
I've had two Redhawks over 20 years and never a misfire. Used about ever kind of ammo and primer out there.

Redhawks1.jpg
 
One of my SRH had light strikes after installing a spring kit. Just wondering what your End Play is? Ruger says < 0.004" is standard for the SRH ~ didn't think to ask re the RH as I didn't own one. I'm thinking excessive end play may play a role in light strikes and DA seem to possess more than SA at least in my collection. In my case I eliminated end play and watching for light strikes ~ so far so good. BTW power custom sells shims for the ruger DAs.

" . . . . . .removing just a tad off the top of the hammer has been a proven cure for this condition . . . . . . . ." I'm not sure what that statement means but if its off the 'face' of the hammer that may be an indication of excess end play and I would tackle that before modding the hammer. Cause before symptom.
 
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removing just a tad off the top of the hammer has been a proven cure for this condition
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what he means either.
If he means the very top that hits the frame and not the transfer bar he is playing with danger. :eek:
Those tolerances are tiny messing with them could be bad.
I recall when mine was new I put in a spring kit to lighten the pull. With use the internals self polished and I eventually went back to the factory springs which are still in there today.
That may be all he is experiencing.
 
even w/allowable end play upon pin strike the cylinder moving w/the force effectively shortens the firing pin by that amount as well as softening the blow. By shaving the top of the hammer face they may have picked up one/two thousanths apparently/seemingly to fix the problem. IF indeed and end play issue, fixing it positions the cylinder closer to the ignition source/recoil plate & firing pin.

I use my SRH to hunt w/and std spring is just to much for thumbing SA ~ of course the DA is unreal also. On my 480 which still has factory springs, I dedicate the left thumb for the SA work. However, I think the 454 is ok w/lighter springs now. BTW the 454 was purchased new and the 480 was purchased from a lil gray haired lady that only drove it to church on sundays.
 
I tried using a Redhawk for IHMSA silhouette competition when they
first came out. I did a trigger job, still too rough and hard. Cut a
couple of coils off main spring, and voila, was as good as any revolver
I ever owned! :) Only problem was, it would misfire at least twice in
every cylinder full! The push-me, pull-me mainspring was the problem.
Why Ruger ever went with that design is beyond me, but the Super
Redhawks dont have that problem because they have a spring for the
hammer, and another spring for trigger return.
 
No problems or misfires , in thousands of factory rounds and tens of thousand of handloads (Win Lg Pistol Primers).

Have the middle weight spring from the (bullseye or Trapper) spring kit and a very slick action job.

P2130001.jpg
 
common

I've owned 5.5" Redhawks in all four chamberings, and all four at least once exhibited light strikes.
I have a 7.5" 357 version that has, too.
 
It was such a common problem, when they first came out, that
lots of gun writers commented on it. Its hard to believe that
nobody had ever heard of this. It was especially common if you
had a trigger job,and had cut some coils off of main spring, or lighter springs installed.
 
Mine has never misfired, but the barrel/cylinder gap is too tight. One of these days, I'll call Ruger about it. I would not care, except it starts to drag when it warms up. After about a dozen rounds, it has to rest a while to cool back down. The gap is only 0.003". Need ot open it up a couple thou.
 
Well, my gun is relatively new.... only a few years old and so it's not early production. I think it's a quirk with the design using one spring instead of two like the other ruger revolvers. The redhawk is such a massive and strong gun, but maybe a 629 with 5 inch barrel would have been a better handling gun for me as I'm not real crazy about shooting the hottest loads anyways. I also like the looks of the 629. The super redhawk is uglier than @#$#$Q@#%! I do like the looks of the redhawk, but this light strike problem bugs me..... I will be taking it apart and polishing everything I can within reason.
 
I had one years ago got it when they first came out.Put the spring kit from trapper on it worked for a while.Started not firing put the original springs back in still light strikes sent it to Ruger got it back worked for a while started getting light hits again sent it back again.It was stolen shortly after that didn't buy another.I too think the super redhawk is the ugliest gun ever built
 
RC, here is something you might try, or anyone on here that has
had misfires with your Redhawk. Just go to Federal primers. They
are the softest ones and I have a couple of drop block single shots
I use in IHMSA silhouette shooting and they are the only ones I
can use in em.
 
Rc I am confused how does your redhawk shoot? Are you having issues or just read about them on the Internet????? If it is not broke trying to fix it might be counterproductive as messing with springs can lead to light strikes.

If you just read of the light strikes on the net than go shoot the hawk and see since according to the Internet flocks always blow up, the 1911 always jams and if you have a smith revolver best to jb weld the key in it's lock as it will lock up after every shot
 
My Redhawk, out of the box, misfired close to 50% of the time. Factory ammo or reloads. I called Ruger twice and they told me it was the ammo. They wanted me to buy another box of ammo, after I had already tried two different kinds. This was 15 years ago and I still have my Redhawk.

I could tell the firing pin was not coming out all the way; there was too much meat on the hammer. With a flat file I shaved an even coat off the flat of the hammer and it has not misfired in 15 years. Unfortunately, I had to figure it out myself, there was no TFL back in 95. ;)

Like my Grand-pappy use to say, "Don't judge a man till you walk a mile in his moccasins". RC has a valid point, my "moccasins" don't lie. ;)

rc-- You are correct about shaving a little off the hammer. I would try Ruger first, and if they give you the "bad ammo business", the file worked like a champ for me.
 
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