Ruger Model GP-100 vs Smith&Wesson Model 65
- Thread starter dgludwig
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Thanks again for all of the helpful insights directed to this thread that I started. I apologize for not addressing some of the comments posted here in a more timely manner but I've been away from the computer for almost two months now as I've been involved in an extensive home remodeling project. I did attend an Ohio Gun Collector's gun show in Wilmington, Ohio yesterday and, for the second time, was able to look at a Model 66 with a 3" barrel and round butt. Although I understand that the 3", fully lugged barrel is scarce (as I understand, Smith made fewer than 3,000 of them in this configuration), the $1,100.00 asking price seemed a little steep to me at the time (you can find nice Model 66s with the 2" barrel all day long for under $600.00-at least in my locale). However, because I am partial to having adjustable sights on all of my handguns that aren't being employed in a pocket carry or other "deep cover" location and because I much prefer a 3" barrel over a 2" one, this particular revolver really appeals to me. Has anybody else seen this revolver-or (hopefully) knows where one can be found at a cheaper price?
The search continues...
The search continues...
From what I understand the 3" Model 66 wasn't a regular production item. They were special runs for one or two different distributors, and they aren't all too common today. As such, prices like the one you saw at the gun show seem to be the norm now.
I myself recently picked up a 66-5 with a 2.5" barrel for just over $400 OTD. The gun was a trade in from the Louisiana Department of Youth Development, and it looks like it was never issued or shot outside of the factory. The 2.5" barrel has a nice balance to it and once I change out the Uncle Mikes that came on it for something a little more comfy I might put it in the carry rotation.
I myself recently picked up a 66-5 with a 2.5" barrel for just over $400 OTD. The gun was a trade in from the Louisiana Department of Youth Development, and it looks like it was never issued or shot outside of the factory. The 2.5" barrel has a nice balance to it and once I change out the Uncle Mikes that came on it for something a little more comfy I might put it in the carry rotation.
Webleymkv and TenRing, you both (and all others in this thread) make some great points. In considering the above two salient observations, I have to side with TenRing in the sense that I, too, don't plan on removing the sideplate "from a S&W or Colt revolver while in the woods or in my canoe or at night by moonlight. Some others may but I won't." But I sometimes have trouble getting bread out of a toaster...
I'm still considering all of the many options. Though I love the configurations of the Model 65 LadySmith and the 3" barreled Model 66, due to their relative scarcity, both of these revolvers are commanding pretty steep prices (when compared to their more prevalent counterparts) and I'm not a collector per se (now, my wife would ask: "Why do you have so many guns if you're not collecting them?"-a question for which I have no intelligent answer
). So, even though it comes real close to replicating the features, weight, size and general configuration of my Smith Model 686, due to the simpler field-stripping advantage and adjustable sights, I'm leaning toward the Ruger GP100 with the 4" barrel. Even at my age (68), I still do a lot of fishing from my canoe (my favorite area by far is the Boundary Waters in northern Minnesota) and getting my sidearm dunked is always a real possibility.I appreciate all of those who have taken the time to offer their helpful suggestions and insights and look forward to further inputs. As sort of an aside, The TALO rendition of the GP100 is a very intriguing concept and I'm curious as to how much they are going for in terms of price. Also, can anyone give me an idea as to what is a good price for a 4" barreled Ruger GP 100? My local gun shop is asking $580.00 for one. Thanks again, all.
GP100
To the OP, the GP100 is a tank. Very simple to take apart. I chose to slicken up the action and install 2# lighter main spring and trigger spring and do it myself. Very simple directions on the Ruger forum. It makes a world of difference compares nicely to a Smith. I love mine now and will not get rid of it. I also was able to buy it on GB for less than 500 dollars and it looked practically new. Good luck on your decision.
To the OP, the GP100 is a tank. Very simple to take apart. I chose to slicken up the action and install 2# lighter main spring and trigger spring and do it myself. Very simple directions on the Ruger forum. It makes a world of difference compares nicely to a Smith. I love mine now and will not get rid of it. I also was able to buy it on GB for less than 500 dollars and it looked practically new. Good luck on your decision.
I don't believe that I'd be trying to take a Ruger apart under those conditions either. While the Ruger is made to be user-disassembled, it can still sometimes require a bit of finesse to get everything back in where it should be. Also, while the Ruger doesn't have as many small parts, there are still some that could get lost if the gun was taken apart under the circumstances you describe. Heck, trying to find a spring that you've dropped in a mud puddle or high grass isn't exactly my idea of a good time.
I bought my used Ruger GP100 6" for about $475. They're tanks and as long as the timing is good, it will shoot anything. I favor the GP100 because of its weight. Follow up shots are very important. I also got a trigger job that tightened my groups significantly in double action. I shoot it nearly as well as my 1911s.
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