Ruger Mark III Problem

That's the thing.

It apparently doesn't happen to everybody. My Mk II would routinely have this stovepipe problem, as did a friend of mine using an identical "slabsides" target model. Depending on the magazine, it would happen once every 30 shots or so. Maybe more often than that even.

As I was using the gun for bullseye competition, those jams were costing me scores and causing delays in the matches because I would have to refire.

So I went ahead and modified all six or so of the magazines I'd accumulated just to be on the safe side.

The website where I learned of this problem also suggested the plastic magazine base could be worn or ground down so the magazine "sat lower" in the pistol against the heel magazine release. This was an alternative to grinding down the left mag lip slightly. My way worked just fine for me.

If you aren't experiencing the Ruger Stovepipe, then it isn't a concern.
 
Ruger stovepipe: It was occurring about every other round with one mag. The other mag seemed to work OK. Possibly the bad mag was the one that got jammed in my gun during my first attempt at disassembly. Maybe the gunsmith damaged it when he removed it, or maybe it jammed because it was damaged in the first place. Anyway, I'll send it back to Ruger and let them replace it under warranty, and maybe I can order an additional mag or two from them while I'm at it and they won't charge me any postage.
 
My wife has one of these pistols.

We stop after initial disassembly -- we NEVER get to the rubber mallet stage.

Yes, putting it back together is a bit tricky. There's a video on the Ruger website that explains it. Once you get the hang of it, it's a snap.
Click to expand...


Well, again, by initial disassembly you must mean removing the lock mechanism etc. a la the Ruger instructions, and this operation, when the gun is new and tight, is what requires the rubber/wooden mallet and dowel in order to bang out the pin - and then bang it back in again.
 
I must be as lucky as Mr. CC. I`ve done far less cleaning my MK1. This gun has literally been abused. Don`t know how many thous. of rds. to date. Myself, kids and now grandkids. To-date gun has never been completely broken down. Barrel swabbed, feeding ramp(area) and mags cleaned. Gun blown out with compressed air and completely oiled with a LIGHT OIL. Have never had a problem in years of service other than with cheap Phillipine, Korean ,middle East ammo. Gun still fired but I stopped due to sandy/gritty feeling in chamber and slide. If your having stovepipe issues a cleaning or replacement of your mags may be in order
 
I really need help

This thread was 6 pages long but i'm pretty boned here.. I'm going shooting wednesday and i tried disassembling my Ruger 22/45 MArk III Hunter and I'm STUMPED. I couldnt get the level OUT off the back of the gun.. I got it up... yanked and tugged and nothing happened so i put it back down and tried to cock my bolt back normally and the thing only goes half way back... and now i cant get the lever back... I really need help people thanks so much!
 
mk3

took my mk3 apart using book no big deal putting back together seem to go ok a little stif ( its new ) now nothing works slide very stif trigger not working magazine eject not working worst of all I can not even get it apart again can someone help Chris
 
Sear spring got around sear when milling

I must thank Scorch for mentioning the sear spring. Until you have taken this gun completely apart, studying how each piece operates like an old Swiss clock maker, you will have trouble identifying problems.

In my case, I bought a Mark III 22/45 despite *hating* the thin grip. I once owned a Mark II 22/45 that I both loved (shooting) and hated (assembling). Apparently later 22/45 models have removable grip panels, but not mine. Anyway, I removed them...with a milling machine. Then I carved some really thick wooden ones (I have big meaty hands), decorated the wood, and gorilla glued them on. Then I happily assembled the finished product, pulled back on the bolt, released the bolt so it should be cocked, pulled the trigger...and no "click". Nuts!

I guess the bowing of the frame from the mill vise (and some reckless abuse I will not admit to) allowed the sear spring to get past the sear. I would have lost all hope if not for the websites others mentioned (and I repeat here):
http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm
http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm
Once I dove in, I was impressed by the design. It was easier than I could have imagined! Reset the sear spring and I was in business...click. Really, it took less than a half hour.

My question is, how did anyone ever figure stuff like this out before the internet? They must have been geniuses. Well, I think I must now be over the hump with this gun. Now I will definitely consider making some of the modifications the kids are doing to the Mark III's nowadays.

Thanks again!
 
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