Ruger m77 mk ii

Lwh4207

New member
Hello this is my first time on the firing line ,but i am familiar with it via Google searches. Anyway, I have a Ruger m77 mkii 243 that is a fine rifle but it's not all that accurate with any loads I've tried. I have got a new timney trigger ordered for it but I was wondering if there was anything else I could do to help it. The gun isn't neccesarly inaccurate (it shoots about 11/2 groups at 100 yards) but I think it could be better. Thanks
 
Welcome to TFL.

What ammo have you tried so far? Some rifles are picky about what they will shoot really well. You might check and see if the barrel is touching the stock. Fold a piece of paper a couple times and slide it between the barrel and stock to feel for contact. Is your stock wood or synthetic?
 
Be patient. 1.5 MOA is no disgrace. You should improve with practice. It may take trying several types of ammo, but 243 is capable of excellent accuracy. Keep trying. I have had new MDL 700's that I would have been overjoyed to see 1.5MOA. It may take a try or two,but you should begin to improve. A good trigger never hurts, but Ruger 77's usually have decent triggers. Good luck. Investigate reloading.
 
I have tried varied factory ammo hornady, Remington, Winchester with about the same results in all. It is better with 100 gr sp handloads I can't remember the exact formula the best accuracy load was 75 gr vmax but I prefer a heavier bullet. It is stainless synthetic, 2005 model I never really noticed the trigger being so stiff until I shot a lot of other rifles.
 
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Ruger77 MK11

I bought a 77 built in 1991 out of a deceased collectors collection. It was in mint condition and it wouldn't group much better than 3 inches at 100 yards after trying 5 different bullets and 3 different powders.I called Ruger and after giving them the serial number they agreed to to take it back for inspection.Ruger re barreled the rifle and returned it to me NO CHARGE !!!!!!!!!!!!! Now it groupes 1 1/2 inch or better with several of my .308 loads. hdbiker
 
They may just be the norm for those rifles but I thought it was kinda strange that the ruger American 7mm-08 I bought my wife gets tighter groups than my m77. Big al it doesn't have a gap between the barrel and the stock
 
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There are reasons that the Ruger M77 MkII isn't well represented among competitive shooters. For some reason it is a more difficult action to build a precision rifle on, not that it can't be done (it has) just that other actions are easier to accurize. The Ruger American action is machined from billet stock, the M77 MkII action is investment cast. There are plenty of other differences including number of bolt lugs, extractor and feed method, but what it boils down to is that the Ruger American action is better for building a precision rifle based on how it is manufactured.

But if you want a dangerous game rifle from Ruger, the M77 MkII is what I would reach for. They are a fine hunting rifle, and should be enjoyed as such.

Jimro
 
It has never failed me, the main reason I was wanting to make it as accurate as possible is because of the coyote problem around my area. I live on a cattle ranch in western Arkansas and the coyotes are thick. Calling them up is next to impossible because of all the chicken farms and dead chickens being thrown out so they aren't Hungry ,but they won't hesitate to kill a newborn calf. With all that being said it is very rare to get a close shot at one (400+ is about the norm),And they are learning to stay farther and farther away.
 
For all that my 77 Mk II in .223 was half-MOA with the tort-liability trigger, it was much easier after I installed a Timney. That might make a difference. :)

Otherwise, I'd try free-floating the barrel, along with the Timney.

My Sako .243 has a 1:10 twist, and I've had much better groups with an 85-grain bullet than with 100-grain.
 
That's going to be my first step. The mkii' are pretty popular around here and my friend is a gunsmith and an outstanding marksman (his target is setup at a mile) he has worked on a lot of mkii and he thinks the timney will make a big difference. I just wanted to get as much information as possible on the subject.
 
Take a dowel and sandpaper and sand the stock out until the barrel is free floating. The barrel vibrates as the bullet travels down it. If the barrel is touching the stock then every shot is changed by any different pressures applied to the stock. This may help. Also ask your gunsmith friend about bedding the action. What bullet weights have you tried?
 
I will ask him and I have tried 58 gr through 100 gr I think the ruger come out with a 1:9 twist but I'm not 100 percent sure. I'd like to try and stay with heavy bullets because you never kno what you will run across.Besides the 75 gr vmax I have had better luck with the heavy bullets I'd like to try the 95 gr sst
 
You can throw a lot of money at that rifle and probably not do any better.

I thought it was kinda strange that the ruger American 7mm-08 I bought my wife gets tighter groups than my m77.

The 77 is designed for rugged reliability, some of those design features along with the angled bedding system limit accuracy. It is the rare MK-II that will put 3 shots under 1" on a consistent basis.

The newer Hawkeyes were refined somewhat although they are the same rifle.

The American is a completely different design built for optimum accuracy. Those rifles will shoot, but if I were staring down an animal that wanted to eat me for lunch I'd rather have the 77 in my hands than the American.

I bought a 77 built in 1991 out of a deceased collectors collection.

Prior to 1992 Ruger didn't produce their own barrels, they were purchased from various barrel makers. Some were very good, some awful, but Ruger had no control over QC. The 77's made 1992 to present are much more consistent, but never known as tack drivers.
 
i hope I'm not facing down an animal that wants to eat me with a 243 in my hands ,but with that being said a big boar hog can get your blood pumping when he is crashing timber heading in your direction that and the occasional black bear and mountain lion is about the most dangerous game we have around here but I usually carry that m77 when I go out
 
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First, scrub all copper out of that barrel. Get a good copper remover, such as BoreTech Eliminator, and get that barrel squeaky clean. .243 Win tends to copper foul more than lower velocity and larger caliber cartridges, so it's something to keep an eye on. Ruger's barrels are usually a little rough, as well, which increases the rate of fouling.
Clean it.
Shoot it after cleaning, to see if there was improvement.
Then move on to other options, if desired.


I think that Timney trigger will help.

My own M77 Mk II (.270 Win, stainless) was made in 2004. I bought it new.
It was a 1.5-3 MoA rifle in my hands, before the Timney.
After installing a Timney trigger and sear, it suddenly 'became' a sub-MoA rifle, typically showing 3/4" or better for 5-shots at 100 yards in my hands.
(While this rifle shoots better with a little bit of copper fouling in the bore, it does require regular de-coppering to keep performance from going to crap with a lot of copper.)


Also be sure to check action screw torque, and make sure the front action screw is not over-tightened. Over-tightening the front screw crushes the stock and makes accuracy go to crap.



As for the barrels...
We were just talking about Ruger M77 Mk II barrels the other day:
FrankenMauser said:
Ruger started making rifle barrels in-house in 1991.
780-prefix 77 Mk IIs [1989-1992] are in the transition period where they could have a Ruger barrel or a contract barrel.
All other 77 Mk IIs and Hawkeyes, as far as Ruger has divulged, will have Ruger barrels.


Basic timeline of Ruger 77 barrels:
Douglas from '67-'73
Wilson from '73-'91 (earned a bad reputation for unpredictability, especially when warm)
Ruger hammer-forged from '91-Current
Other contracts filled in where needed, if Wilson or Douglas couldn't meet demand.
 
Assuming the barrel/stock channel don't have tight spots....

The 77s have a unique front action support system which is angled rearward to firmly anchor the recoil lug against the stock recoil ledge.

1. Loosen both front and rear screws.
2. Slip a small (⅜"-wide) piece of ordinary paper just behind (not under) the rear tang to monitor clearance.
3. Screw the front action screw tight, firmly anchoring the front recoil lug against the angled block.
4. Check that you can still slip the paper out from behind the rear tang (i.e., make sure the tang hasn't bound itself up against the stock inletting)
5A. If the paper will still come out, go ahead and tighten the rear tang screw (check paper again after tightening)

5B. If the paper is stuck, pull the action out and take a piece of sandpaper around a dowel to relieve the area behind the tang just a scoch...

Repeat 1-4 as req'd until the paper/tang interface is free. Then tighten front (1st), rear second, and see if you've now got reliable groups.

.
 
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Ruger's generally like the front lug as tight as you can get them, in the 60 inch pound range. When I changed out the wood stock for a comp on my Ruger I ended up bedding the action to get it accurate again.
 
Thanks guys the gun is over at the gunsmiths right now getting the trigger put in it. When he gets done with it I will have him look at the stock and bedding and see if we can squeeze a little more accuracy out of it. As long as I can reach out to 500+ yards consistently I will be happy.
 
I know a fellow who persistently shot a Ruger m77v 1984 vintage or thereabouts. Through the first 250 rounds this rifle did not shoot well. Then all of a sudden it started grouping really well. To this day it is a sweet shooter.
 
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