Ruger Convertibles

Edward429451 ask. "You got a 230 to 1250? That's awesome. Did you ever load any 255 swc in acp brass?".

No, I did try to load some 250 grain hard cast RNFP and they would not chamber. Probably something I was doing wrong, or the oglive on the bullit made for 45 Colt is not made for a firearm that headspaces on the case mouth. I think the latter and did not pursue it farthur. Maybe the 255 swc could be made to work.

I just re-read rclark's post and it seems he discovered something I did not about how to make this work.

I actually think this is fun stuff!
James
 
You probably needed your cylinder reamed to .4525. I haven't had mine done yet either. I think they'll work great once I have that done.
 
If I had the cylinder reamed maybe it would shoot the heavier bullits. Probably won't do this as the 230 grain RN do everything I want them to, the bullits are a little cheaper, and maybe easier to find.

To get the velocity I mentioned I used the same small primer headstamp brass, measured the volume and loaded to 78% case fill with AA#9. There is room for more powder but I probably won't go there.

Edited to add, AA#9 is a serious powder and one that in my opinion will get you into trouble if you are careless with it. It is not a "If It Fits It Will Shoot" powder.

To the OP, hope we havn't gone too far off topic. As you can tell the Ruger convertibles do have a fan base.

Have a great day!
James
 
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James: As to getting too far off topic. No. It seems I have "opened up a whole new can of worms" so to speak in the handgun sport/hobby by getting a Ruger convertible 45. I have been reloading for a few years now, but it was primarily for the sake of economy rather than developing favored loads. It seems that the big bore handguns are in a class of their own with a certain following. I have much to learn which is why I am getting into bigger calibers. Thanks for all info.
 
Jim March, thanks for the thought about the velocity gained in the "smoothbore" portion of the cylinder, something to think about. I have never heard it reported but is there any concern for damage to the rifling when the bullit contacts it at this velocity. Not trying to create a problem that doesn't exist but something I have wondered about.
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See, that's the part I'm not sure about.

S&W didn't seem to think it was a problem in their 5-shot snubbies. BUT I strongly suspect those guns were based on the snubby 357Mag variants as opposed to the 38s. If so, yet again we're seeing the use of 9mm (max of maybe 450ft/lbs energy if a +P+ load is shot) as opposed to 700+ in 357Magnum.

Yeah, I'm talking about bullet energy here, not pressure, because THAT is what is being applied to the back end of the barrel via bullet speed.

So...I guess what I'm saying is, in each of these cases where a factory (S&W, Ruger or otherwise) has set up a semi-auto round in a revolver, they've done so in a situation that is "over-strength for the round". Any "357Mag" gun set up as a 9mm will be over-strength, as is a Ruger Blackhawk originally meant as a 44Magnum-class frame and cylinder as a 45ACP (your gun's situation). In these cases I don't think there's anything to worry about :).
 
I have two Blackhawk convertibles in 38-40/10mm - these were special runs done back in the early '90s. I will tell you that you need to keep the cylinders clean for the auto rounds; they tend to "clip" the brass at the end of the case and you will start to have difficulty getting the rounds to seat properly in the cylinder.

Unlike the 45 Colt/45 ACP, the difference in the two calibers is reversed for me. That is, the 38-40 is a smooth "push" of a round. The 10mm is "snappy", to say the least!

I sure enjoy the flexibility, though.
 
But, the original J-frame 940s were made prior to the introduction of the .357 J-frames, though to be fair they were based on the Centennial which was the strongest of the J's, rated originally for ".38 Special +P+". I don't remember if the 940 was approved for 9mm +P, but do remember that hot loads often resulted in sticky extraction and there was a warning in the owner's manual about that.
 
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