Rifle cleaning and Kroil

B

Bill Daniel

New member
Does anyone use Kroil to clean there lead only rifles. After finally getting to take my new Henry 45-70 to the range yesterday and firing only lead bullets I went through my regular cleaning routine. This involved brushing and patching after Wipe Out and brushing and patching with Bore Tech eliminator. The patches were cleaning up well but too slowly so I ran some patches with Kroil and a whole new level of lead and carbon was removed. My routine had been based on my target rifle with copper clad bullets and I had been focusing on the copper.
Can Kroil be the final coat before dry patching or is CLP or Slip 2000 a better protectant before storage?
Many thanks,
Bill
 
Can Kroil be the final coat before dry patching or is CLP or Slip 2000 a better protectant before storage?
Click to expand...
I can't recall having seen Kroil tested as a corrosion preventive.

EEZOX, Corrosion X, Boeshield T9 and Breakfree CLP generally score best in the informal corrosion tests I've seen on the web.
 
Shooter's Choice + Kroil mixed 2 parts Shooter's Choice to 1 part Kroil. Used by many bench rest shooters since the mid 1980's. It works to get under lead, but you have to let it sit for 20-30 minutes at the very least. If you have a very heavily leaded barrel, use the Kroil by itself and let it sit overnight. Kroil is so light weight, it does not work well as a rust preventative.
 
I leave my bores mopped in Kroil after cleaning. I run the dry patch before I shoot them. For long term storage(years), I treat the bores with Mobil 1 full synthetic high speed bearing grease.
 
I don't think I'd use Kroil as a protectant.
It's very thin and will tend to run off, and if stored upright it will run into the action.
I've never read any hard info on how well Kroil protects against rust.

I'd use something a little thicker, like CLP Breakfree which has an excellent reputation as a rust protectant.

A possibly faster way to clean leading out of your rifles is a rifle version of the Lewis Lead Remover.
The Lewis kit has been used just about forever by revolver and pistol shooters, and now Brownell's has brought out a rifle version.
This will pull the leading out in a few passes, and when followed by a few passes with a bore brush will usually remove all lead.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ad-remover-for-rifles-shotguns-prod20823.aspx
 
Shooter's Choice + Kroil mixed 2 parts Shooter's Choice to 1 part Kroil. Used by many bench rest shooters since the mid 1980's. It works to get under lead, but you have to let it sit for 20-30 minutes at the very least. If you have a very heavily leaded barrel, use the Kroil by itself and let it sit overnight. Kroil is so light weight, it does not work well as a rust preventative.
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Are you referring to two different things or are you referring to Cast Lead Bullet Bench Rest Shooters, not just Bench Rest shooters in general?
 
All the lab tests I have ever seen had Wd-40 at the top.
Look at the test Brownells lab did.
Click to expand...
I would like to look at that test, but you neglected to post a link. You made the claim, it is up to you to provide the source...well, at least it is in academia if one wants to be taken seriously.
 
The compilation of tests in the post I linked to has a link to the Brownell's test.

Yes, the WD-40 did well in that test--looks like it was either in second place or it tied for first with Boeshield T9. However, that test was more the exception than the rule. In general it was not a top performer.

What other lab tests of corrosion preventives have you seen?
 
I use a lot of G-96, just for the smell alone. Bring back memories of a childhood when that was the only protectant available.
 
I have used kroil oil and JB's bore polish and brite for many years. I had a bench rest shooter/gun smith tell me about it . For a leaded or copper barrel and older rifles in general soaking over night will loosen anything in it. I do still use ether breakfree clp or lately pro-shots one step for bore protection as kroil is not a protectant.
 
10 years ago before Walt Berger sold his bullet company, he had this on his web site, and it got me started with Kroil

Q: Should I shoot Moly Coated bullets?
A:
Any shooter who goes through a lot of rounds during a shooting session
should use Moly Coated bullets. Moly is a dry lubricant that allows you
to shoot more rounds before you have to clean. Since you get less
fouling using Moly Coated bullets the accuracy level of your load will
last longer within a shooting session. If your load did not shoot
without Moly, adding Moly will not make your load shoot. Moly does not
eliminate the need to clean your barrel. You just don't have to clean as
often. Moly will reduce the pressure of your load, which will result in
a slight loss of velocity. In most situations a little more powder can
be added to get you right back to the velocity you want to shoot. If you
are shooting a compressed load with non-Moly bullets you may not be able
to add more powder. It has not been conclusively proven that premium
accuracy life of a barrel will be extended using Moly. However, since
you don't have to clean as often due to reduced fouling premium accuracy
during a particular shooting session does last longer.

Q: If I use Moly Coated bullets how should I clean my barrel?
A:
The following is one way to clean when using Moly Coated bullets. It is
not likely the only way you can clean if you are using Moly Coated bullets.
1. Push one patch wet with Kroil Oil through the barrel
2. Repeat step 1.
3. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
4. Repeat step 3.
5. Push one patch wet with Butch's Bore Shine through the barrel.
6. Repeat step 5.
7. Let the barrel soak for 5 to 10 minutes.
8. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
9. Repeat step 8.
10. Using short strokes back and forth push one patch wet with USP or JB
Bore Paste through the barrel.
11. Push one patch wet with Kroil through the barrel.
12. Repeat step 11 twice.
13. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
14. Repeat step 13 three times.
15. Use bore scope or visually inspect muzzle for copper fouling.
16. If copper is present repeat steps 10 through 15.
17. If you are storing the rifle push one patch wet with quality gun oil
through the barrel.

Q: How do I break in a barrel using Moly Coated bullets?
A: Moly Coated bullets will not shoot consistently until a barrel is
properly broken in with Moly Coated bullets. Walt Berger has found the
following procedure to work best in his barrels.
For a new barrel:

1. Shoot one Moly Coated bullet then clean using the Moly Coated
cleaning procedure listed above.
2. Repeat step 1 five times.
3. Shoot three Moly Coated bullets then clean using the Moly Coated
cleaning procedure listed above.
4. Repeat step 3 five times.

For a broken in barrel:

1. Thoroughly clean the barrel.
2. Shoot ten Moly Coated bullets then clean using the Moly Coated
cleaning procedure listed above.

Your barrel is now ready to shoot Moly Coated bullets.

I have not done a lot of controlled experiments with bore cleaning, but I have prompted Kombayotch to replicate a Copper dissolving experiment with KG-12.
http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/8904-our-own-copper-carbon-solvent-test-2.html

At this time it seems like I own some of every bore cleaning product in existence.

With non scientific seat of the pants noting of results, I have weeded out zillions of products down to a simple system:

1) KG-1 on a patch to get out the Carbon.
2) KG-12 on a patch to etch and undermine the Copper.
3) Kroil on a patch to creep under the Copper.
4) Bronze bore brush to scrub out the Copper.
5) Repeat 2, 3, and 4 until there is no Copper visible in muzzle.
6) Clean patch
7) Burnish with a patch with moly bore paste

Some guidelines for keeping bores cleaner longer:
1) Buy only select match quality barrels that are lapped at the factory.
2) Never shoot a bullet faster than 3600 fps.
 
reynolds357 said:
All the lab tests I have ever seen had Wd-40 at the top.
Look at the test Brownells lab did.
Click to expand...

dahermit said:
I would like to look at that test, but you neglected to post a link. You made the claim, it is up to you to provide the source...well, at least it is in academia if one wants to be taken seriously.
Click to expand...

JohnKSa said:
The compilation of tests in the post I linked to has a link to the Brownell's test.

Yes, the WD-40 did well in that test--looks like it was either in second place or it tied for first with Boeshield T9. However, that test was more the exception than the rule. In general it was not a top performer.

What other lab tests of corrosion preventives have you seen?
Click to expand...

Hows this for a lab test. I cleaned my shotgun and sprayed it down with WD-40 at the end of the hunting season. Things happened and it spent 10 years, I'll repeat TEN YEARS in a vinyl covered fax lambs wool zip up case. When I finally pulled it out of the closest and opened the case my heart sank.There was a rust colored film completely covering the barrel and receiver. I thought my shotgun was ruined... Until I took a close look. Didn't look like rust. Looked like some sort of coating. I soaked a rag with WD and wiped the gun down. It was PERFECT. The new WD melted and cleaned the dried WD that had protected the bluing and the inside of the barrel for 10 years.

After hearing all the naysayer for years telling people of the dastardly effects WD will have on their firearms I just smile and say.... Yah! Right! :rolleyes: My accidental test made a believer out of me. You don't want to spray your ammo with it, but if you want to clean and protect it does work. :D

Are there better products? I know there are a lot more expensive ones.
 
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