Revolver or Semi-auto better when wet?

American MADE...

Did anybody else read the part about his options being narrowed down to guns that are AMERICAN MADE, not imported or assembled, actually made and assembled by american people in the U S of A...;)

with the exception of a couple posts already on here of course
 
You should get a nice stainless Ruger DA/SA revolver in .357 or greater. The barrel length is up to you but I would say 6" or less. Carry it with some quality ammo. Hollowpoints for the house and (MAYBE) hard-cast for the wilderness. If you want a holster a kydex Serpa would work well. Maybe a shoulder rig with a flap for the outdoors but the Serpa would be secure enough. YMMV.

There. Simple.
 
One more thought to add - although I will say semi's are better when things get mucky, I personally have not had any of my firearms in mud all the years of hunting in the cold, snow, mud, etc. So for me, I still choose a revolver even going out in inclement weather.
 
Id say Semi's more enclosed parts including the rounds. It will most go over the gun as opposed to in the gun with a revolver. Either should be able to be dropped in a pool taken out and fired without many problems though. Bullets have to really sit in water to not function.
 
I carried a 686 in the woods and thought it was better suited than any other auto I may have had. Something about pines, oaks, leather and a 357 Mag. I did bump it up a notch this season by getting a model 29 in 44 Mag for the woods. I can tell you I won't leave that 686 at home when I go north.
 
I would feel comfortable with the 686 +P 4" on my side. 3 loads 1 in gun two in pouches speed loaders of Buffalo Bore 180gr. 1,500fps. Then 2 more pouches with 125gr. 1,700 FPS JHP's. I would also pack a 50rd box with 25 more of each.
 
I think a stainless revolver is more reliable per se, but will become less so over time. It is more likely to rust in the internals, as it is harder to wipe all the metal surfaces dry. A polymer gun will probably last longer as it is easier to get at the internals and wipe them down.
 
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I'm a revolver guy, but for your stated use I truly believe a semi auto to be the better choice. I've not crawled thru the mud with either but I've taken a few of each apart, and put them back together. Auto loaders win the field strip contest hands down, even agianst the Rugers.

I'd be seriously looking into a Ruger 1911 if I were in your shoes. But go fondle a bunch of guns and rent a few if you can before you buy.


Whatever you deside on, carry it in a flap holster whenever possible!
 
I would probably go with a semi-auto. Not because I think it will work better when wet, but because I think it would be easier to get the internals clean and dry on a semi than on a revolver. Especially if one were working under less than ideal conditions.
 
My 340 and I went swimming twice (inadvertently, out on the boat, and the gun and ammo sat soaking wet in my pocket for several hours each time until I got home).

When I got it home I blasted it with compressed air, then blasted it with WD40, then blasted out the excess with compressed air, then squirted some CLP in there and dry-fired about 50 times to work the lube in. At that time I was not confident in my ability to delve into the innards of an S&W revolver. These days it would not be an issue.

If it had been a semi auto I would have field stripped it and done a similar routine, but I would have been able to actually see the parts I was blasting, and would be more certain that no silt or water remained inside.

FWIW, all of the ammo from each dunking was placed in the range bag. Every round went "bang". Modern ammo is pretty well made.
 
The most powerfull production hangun round in the world is the .50 caliber S&W.

Since that round is only fired through a REVOLVER, that makes the revolver better than the semi-auto.

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Toootsie Roll lollipop?
 
Honestly, I think the type of handgun makes less difference than how it's carried. A full flap holster and a lanyard will probably go much further towards keeping you gun reliable than fretting over revolver vs. auto.
 
I don't think it matters, unless your swimming with a gun I doubt either would be hurt. If expose to water for any lenght of time, water will get to the ammo but that would affect either.

Thinking about it though, I have crawled through some pretty nasty slimmy mud with a USGI 1911, I've shook the excess water from it and shot, didn't seem to bother it. But I think that slimmy, silt type mud would get into places on a revolver that couldnt be cleaned regularly. But I see the same thing happening to the new autos like the Glock, S&W M&Ps and even the Beretta to an extent.

But not many of us shot in those jungle conditions with rice paddy mud. If I was to, (which I wont) I'd go back to my USGI 1911a1, I've done it, not sure about my revolvers or other semi-autos.

But like I said, that is the extreme, I don't see any of us doing that crap, certainly not with our CC pistol/revolvers so I don't think I would consider the problem in choosing a CC pistol/revolver.
 
@Doyle; I agree with you. My comment was aimed at the fact that if your ammo will survive a certain condition, most weapons will also.

What will go first; a failure in the weapon due to an environmental condition (moisture, temperature impact on tolerances) or ammo failure due to an environmental condition (moisture affects powder, temperature attacks shell tolerance/seal between it and bullet, etc..)?

Actually, i've never seen any environmental condition negatively affect any weapon or ammo, except dust and dirt.
 
Lots of information here... thanks all for the numerous replies.

Also, I forgot to mention in my first post that I am sure this was covered before. I did many searches, and since I didn't find EXACTLY what I was searching for, I decided to post a new thread. Being a member of many forums, I don't personally see a problem with bringing up old topics from time to time. That's the beauty of a forum, is that we can interact with each other. If we all just used the search function, I might as well just search on google... ;)

When kayaking or canoeing, anything that is kept on my person is guaranteed to get wet in the environments and conditions I go in. I have done several extended excursions before that have rusted my knives, soaked my electronics, and wrecked many of my belongings. It's just the way it is. Even when I'm not in a boat, things can go wrong. Last winter during a 3 day hike on the ice age trail, I ventured off trail and ended up falling in a sink hole up to my waist in 9 degree weather. Everything up to my waist was covered in frozen mud, and I was soaked in single digit temps.

I need my gear to be the toughest of the tough for these environments. Since I have a limited budget, I am hoping to buy one gun to suit this environment that I can also master and use for a home defense gun (in addition to my 12 gauge Mossberg pump.

How and where could I learn about basic gunsmithing to gain the skills to confidently take apart, clean, oil, and reassemble a revolver? I am leaning more towards a revolver at this point except for the hang ups I have when reloading...

I will eventually get both, but for now I can only afford one.

Thanks again for all of your help!

JGON
 
John, I'm with you on carrying a pistol. Personally, I like the Glock 19 and Glock 26 better for cc, but to each his own! If it's for woods carry, I'd say to heck with concealment and just carry a 5906TSW or a 1076. But, that's because I consider both those guns to be too large and heavy for carry in my preferred method, iwb.
For concealment, I'd go with a shoulder holster (which I have absolutely no experience with). Even then, I'd be tempted to throw an LCR in my pocket just in case.
 
This is really a very complicated question, and one element that I did not see covered (correct me if I missed it) is what sort of "social environment" will the pistol be kept in when at home in its home defense role?

If a revolver is kept as a home defense gun - and I presume it will be kept loaded - then there is no safety mechanism that can prevent it from being fired by "inquisitive hands" - i.e: little kids. And believe me, if there are little kids in the house, they will find it.

A semi-auto, on the other hand, can be kept with a round chambered, but it may be equipped with a manual safety, or perhaps a magazine safety such that a round can be kept in the chamber but the magazine either kept out of the pistol or perhaps inserted in the mag well but not fully locked in. (Glocks, of course, really have no safety whatsoever.) Semi-autos give one a lot more options regarding the degree of safe storage.

I totally disallow those little internal locks with their tiny keys, of even more traditional trigger locks, as in a home defense role the lock will be difficult to find, insert, and manipulate.

An option that will work with any handgun that will keep the gun from being accidentally fired by inquisitive kids is a police style retention holster. These require some sort of special manipulation, such as the pressing of a catch during the draw, or perhaps a specific push and twist to draw the gun. I read an article years ago where a guy ran a test. He left a unloaded 1911, cocked but with the safety applied, in a room with a five year old (IIRC) kid. It took the kid only a very few seconds, once he found the gun, to click the safety off and "fire" the empty gun. He then left the same 1911 in a police retention holster, and the kid was NEVER able to get it out of the holster.

Revolvers will function with any ammunition for which they are chambered, including such "exotic" rounds such as snake shot - a plus for hiking and camping and such in the great outdoors. However semi-autos can be finicky regarding bullet profile and such. Additionally revolvers will "cycle" more reliably, since it's human muscle power that cocks the hammer and chambers the next round. But semi-autos are susceptible to operating difficulties if "weak wristed" as they require the full recoil impulse to cycle them and are not tolerant of any of the energy being absorbed by a weak hold.

Revolvers, on the other hand, are a little more likely to have issues with broken hand springs and such. And the lock work of a revolver is pretty much inaccessible to the average user, as removing a side plate is not something casually done. Semi-autos can be easily field stripped, of even detail-stripped, fairly easily, as is done to some degree for each cleaning.

And as has been mentioned, revolvers normally can be chambered for more powerful ammunition, such as .44 Magnum on up. Not normally so for semi-autos.

Revolvers are a little "lumpy" when trying to conceal them, as the cylinder is usually wider than the even the biggest semi-auto. Also the revolver just isn't as space-efficient a design.

I thin, were I to be facing this choice, I'd keep one of each - a 1911 (always a good choice) for home defense and concealed carry, and a .44 Magnum single-action revolver for woods use.
 
I prefer a 1911 rack grade in 45 ACP for those occasions when I must move through muck and mud like the Ouachita River bottoms during floods.

I will not carry a auto which does not rattle when you shake it into the swamps. Super tight and accurate Pistols will jam when subjected to the sand and silt carried in most streams and rivers.

A real mil spec 1911, while not pretty, will hold in the 10 ring at 50 yrds. That is, from a practical accuracy point of view, all you need. It will function after just about every form of abuse a soldier, sailor or marine has been able to dream up over the last 100 years.
 
I think you're looking in the rightest direction with the revolver. My vote would go towards a S&W 65 or 686. Here's a great link to solve the take-um aparts issues: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41564/Product/AMERICAN_GUNSMITHING_INSTITUTE_HANDGUN_DISASSEMBLY_VIDEOS.

Somebody had some slightly less than accurate info about the side plates holding all the guts in. The side plate holds nothing in other than the hammer/firing pin block (a little key-looking thing about 1 1/2" long that rides in a channel on the side plate).

Also, I think folks might be a little off mark with the idea of only field striping a semiauto (esp a 1911). Yes, the guts accessable through field striping need to be cleaned and dried, but so do those other yet hidden parts such as mainspring, sear, disconnector, bottom half of hammer, etc. You can go to Brownells or e-gunparts corp.com and look at various schematics and get an idea for yourself as far as simplicity of what would be easiest to get to conform to your activities.

So, yeah, based on all that- I would still recommend a S&W 65 or 686 with a 2 1/2", 3", or 4" (at most) revolver.
 
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