Removing copper or lead fouling

JBs

People use JB compound and run it through their barrels like its a regular tool. It has abrasive compounds in it and if you just run back and forth, what do think it's doing to your barrel?
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I've been using JBs for more than 30 years, particularly on leading in revolvers. It has "non embedding" abrasives that have never caused any problem with my 9 rifles and 6 revolvers. More recently I've been using JBs Bore Shine and it is fantastic.
 
I have an entire shoe box filled with various bore cleaners.

All I can say is that the dedicated purpose ones should do the trick for whatever ails your rifle, i.e. BoreTech Cooper or carbon remover. It has been suggested that KG has a great product, but I will only purchase it when my shoe box is empty, if I live that long.

Aluminum jag and nylon brushes ONLY to avoid false positive readings on copper cleaners.
 
Aluminum, plastic, stainless, and the special Bore Tech alloy Proof Positive jags all work. A couple of fellows have said they use nickel-plated brass jags from Midway and that the plating prevents the false reading well enough.

Only a shoe box full?
 
KG12 is an excellent copper remover, WEAR GLOVES and do not get any on skin. Combining a lewis lead remover with JB on patch is easy way to do basic bore lapping.

Even some pistol barrels can be "broke in', by cleaning down to steel repeatedly and using jacketed bullets. Occasionally the copper is just filling in, and in some cases is better left alone if the pistol is more accurate with it.
 
I've removed lead deposits very nicely using Kano Kroil in the bore. Kroil is not a solvent but rather a penetrant. The oil creeps around and under the deposits allowing them to be easily removed with a brush and patch.

My technique is to spray the bore with Kroil, and let it creep for 20 minutes or so. Run a brush a few times followed by a couple of patches. The result is a bore with a mirror finish. In my personal experience, at least.

Bayou
 
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