Removing A Squib Round From A Barrel?

J

JeepHammer

Moderator
I have ALWAYS drilled the squib, then punched it out with a brass rod in a press.
Mic the barrel to make sure there isn't a bulge,
Then test fire to see if the barrel is safe to shoot again.

I haven't had to do but two or three in the past 40 years,
This is the way I was taught, so this is the way I do it.

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I saw a 'Youtube' video where the guy load a case with about half the normal powder charge,
Uses a paper plug to keep the powder in the case,
Then FIRES the squib out of the barrel.

This guy actually put squibs in the rifle to start with,
Then fired the squibs out to demonstrate the process.

Seems dangerous to me...
I can't put my finger on why it would be real dangerous with a half charge load,
But it just seems dangerous to me.
(and you see every stupid thing in the world on Youtube...)

Your thoughts?

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How do you remove squibs (other than just pulling and junking the barrel)?
 
I am in the brass rod camp. Maybe steel with tape or heatshrink cover.
Not wood.

I have read in Hatcher about shooting out barrel obstructions and there is a guy on another board who says it works.
 
^^^
That's what's in my range bag, the steel rod protected in shrink tube.
Only ever had to use it once, but it worked just fine.
 
I can't imagine what would make it dangerous though. I would just use a rod, I have slugged bores with a dowel and don't see why it would be difficult with a squib. I think the YouTube Gus method would be fine, but I don't know if I need a quick fix for a squib, how many does this guy have. I've never had one and don't plan on it
 
been there, done that and it worked like a charm.

My problem began when I switched to using a flake powder. A flake or two would get stuck on the measure somehow which caused me to have some light loads and some over charged loads when the flake gave away. I didnt notice until I was at the range.

The sound of a squib is something I will never forget and I'm glad I stopped firing. I used a wooden dowel and could not budge the bullet so I decided to try shooting with only a primer, that didnt work. I slowly worked up a very light load, crimped the case with pliers and then pushed the crimped end into a candle to seal it off.
 
I know this has been said many times before, but never use a wood dowel to slug a barrel or to remove a squib. If it splits, and believe me it happens, it wedges in with the bullet or slug and you have a real problem getting it out. GW
 
I know this has been said many times before, but never use a wood dowel to slug a barrel or to remove a squib. If it splits, and believe me it happens, it wedges in with the bullet or slug and you have a real problem getting it out. GW
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I didn't think about that at the time but it won't happen again, thanks
 
When someone brings me a muzzle loader that didn't fire I remove the breach plug and set my air compressor at 150 and it blows it 25 feet out of the barrel. I never tried it on a squib but it may work. I may try it tomorrow.
 
A flake or two would get stuck on the measure somehow which caused me to have some light loads and some over charged loads when the flake gave away. I didnt notice until I was at the range.
Click to expand...
Those tiny amount won't make any difference at all.
If you think they will, try to actually weigh "a flake or two"
 
There is a danger of the bullet wedging.
I don't completely understand.
I do understand how a V block is a force multiplier, but the barrel is not V shaped.

Anyway, the idiot proof way to get a stuck bullet out is with oil.
Put oil between the end of the rod and the bullet.
Hit the rod with a hammer.
Don't let the rod touch the bullet.
The oil will push the bullet without wedging it in harder.

How did I learn this?
The late gunsmith Randy Ketchum had a gun store. I would stop in, buy a pound of powder and ask dumb questions about how to do my amateur gunsmithing. Other old gunsmiths would stop in to shoot the bull and I would listen. One of them told the story about oil in the bore to get out the wedged bullet.
 
Shooting out a stuck bullet with a light charge (AND NO BULLET) is perfectly feasible and will do no damage. In fact it is the method many gunsmiths use after the customer has gone out the door. I have done it several times, with no problems; when asked my technique, I just smiled and said it was a secret. If someone fails to heed the NO BULLET warning, the barrel will be bulged or ruptured.


If one prefers to use a rod, use a brass rod, not steel or wood. Steel can score the barrel (depending on the hardness of the rod) and wood WILL split and add to the problem.

Jim
 
When someone brings me a muzzle loader that didn't fire I remove the breach plug and set my air compressor at 150 and it blows it 25 feet out of the barrel. I never tried it on a squib but it may work. I may try it tomorrow.
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I do it easier, remove the nipple and replace it with a grease zerk fitting with the same threads, then use a grease gun and grease to force the ball out, comes out slow and controlled, flush the barrel with solvent and your ready to go.

https://www.facebook.com/shoot.the.guns.of.history/posts/1542037309369680
 
I do it easier, remove the nipple and replace it with a grease zerk fitting with the same threads, then use a grease gun and grease to force the ball out, comes out slow and controlled, flush the barrel with solvent and your ready to go.
Click to expand...
It may be "safer" but I wouldn't say "easier" since it makes a big mess to clean up and wastes a lot of grease and solvent, whereas with air you're done as soon as it comes out
 
Anyway, the idiot proof way to get a stuck bullet out is with oil.
Put oil between the end of the rod and the bullet.
Hit the rod with a hammer.
Don't let the rod touch the bullet.
The oil will push the bullet without wedging it in harder.
Click to expand...

That requires a very tight fit in the barrel or else the oil can't build up any pressure, and that means using more than just a rod alone
 
well, I reckon whatever side its closer to. although you should start at the breech as to not damage your bore by accident
 
Clark said:
Anyway, the idiot proof way to get a stuck bullet out is with oil.
Put oil between the end of the rod and the bullet.
Hit the rod with a hammer.
Don't let the rod touch the bullet.
The oil will push the bullet without wedging it in harder.
Click to expand...

This would be a good idea to use a wooden dowel rod since you can get wood to fit tighter and sill get good pressure with a hammer...

The way I was taught,
You weld a drill on drill rod,
Wrap tape around the rod so it doesn't score the barrel,
Drill a hole in the bullet so it has some compression release area...

Then you use a brass rod to drive the bullet out.

Some bores have just been too small to get a good hole drilled in the bullet...
And proper size brass rods are getting MUCH harder to find than they were...

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The 'Grease Gun' idea gives me some thoughts,
Both ends of an AR barrel are threaded,
A cap with a grease zerk threaded on might do the job,
Provided you blocked the gas port...

On bolt rifles this wouldn't be an issue,
Just unscrew the barrel from the receiver, screw on the cap and pump that darn bullet out.

See, this is leading to some ideas I've not had before.
I browsed several of the other forums before I joined this one,
This one just seemed to have guys that were more 'Grounded',
They posted up their mistakes as learning information,
The ideas were just plain common sense, not some 'Pie In The Sky' crap.

Thanks guys!
You haven't disappointed me, quite the contrary!
 
JeepHammer said:
I saw a 'Youtube' video where the guy load a case with about half the normal powder charge,
Uses a paper plug to keep the powder in the case,
Then FIRES the squib out of the barrel.
Click to expand...


The US Navy used that technique to clear squibs from 5"/38 guns



Wikipedia said:
The clearing charge (also called, "the short round") is a short case; plugged just above the wad.[21] The distance piece between the wad and plug is left out. Its powder charge is less than a full service charge.[21] This case is essential for the safety of the mount because it is needed to clear a gun after a misfire.[21] Due to its importance, it is kept in a special container in the mount whenever the ship is in a combat zone. A misfire is especially dangerous in semi-fixed guns.[12] When the breech is opened after the misfire, the faulty powder case can be extracted, but the projectile will remain jammed in the rifling.[21] Also, all or part of the extracted case's cork plug may still be wedged in the chamber behind the projectile. This "fouls" the chamber because it decreases the chamber's volume. And, since Full and Reduced charge cases take up the full volume of an unfouled chamber (See loaded Semi-Fixed round drawing above), any residue left from the previously extracted case will prevent them from fully loading into the chamber. Therefore, the clearing charge is made short so that it will fit into a fouled chamber.
After hand extracting the bad case from the chamber, the clearing charge is removed from its special container and is hand rammed into the chamber. With the clearing charge sealed in the chamber, the projectile is fired out the muzzle.[12] It is important to clear the projectile through the muzzle because it is not easy nor safe pushing a bore rod down the barrel to force a fuzed projectile back through the chamber and into the gun house.[28] Also, if the gun has fired a number of rounds just prior to the misfire, time is critical because the barrel may be hot enough to cook off the high explosive in the projectile.[29] This would destroy the mount.[12]
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I wouldn't recommend it though.
 
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