Remington Model 11 questions

Unscrew the magazine cap remove forend slide barrel onto magazine tube and fit end of barrel onto receiver, you may have to pull the bolt back a bit to fit the barrel in. put forend back and tighten magazine cap and function check. Make sure its empty.
 
Remington mod 11 question

Gents,
I'm new here so please bear with me. I've read threads regarding using serial #'s to determine manuf. date and grade. I just received an email reply from Remington telling me that serial # 1595476 (on my gun) was made in 1948... though the link to the History section of their website which they provided in the reply email clearly states the model was discontinued in '47... and in the reply it was stated that grade could not be determined?! I'm not to proud to beg: HELP PLEASE! I'd sincerely appreciate a vetran of these matters to help me out with this.

Secondly, the gun I have is pretty seriously engraved (comming from an eye that is ignorant to Remington's). How engraved was a B, C, D, E or F grade piece, and how do I figure out what the heck I have?

Most respectfully,
Doug in Akron Ohio
 
dating model 11

I recently obtained a model 11 12 ga. It's in excellent condition. I have a soft case with separate sleeves for the gun and 3 barrels. I've done a good deal of research and was told by someone at Remington that it was sold in Sears and Roebuck catalog. I have 28" mod. ,32" full and 20" riot barrels. I'm not really into collecting guns to just look at, but this set was just too nice to pass up.It's in such good condition that I won't take it afield.I do need a steel friction ring to make it complete. I went to Remington.com and found a 1-800 number to get the date of manufacture. Mine is 1923. The case is a tough vinyl like material with zipper and red felt on inside. Anyone interested in buying contact me.
 
Model 11

I have a model 11 that Remington dated as 1907 as the year of manufacture but they did not give me a grade , how do you find out the grade it is a full choke 28 inch barrel with a vent rib it apears to be a numbers match gun even the stock has the same serial number . I have taken it apart for a good cleaning it is almost identical to my other Brownings but much cheaper to buy than the Brownings. Thanks in advance for any information.
 
Hi All, just joined this forum after finding this thread. I usually hang out over at the 24hourcampfire and the Kifaru board. I have a Model 11 that I picked up at a local gun shop about ten years ago where they used to lay weapons out on a table! It had been in a house that had a fire and evidently had some surface rust from water damage. A 'smith parkerized all the metal and the wood was black from handling around the pistol grip not from the fire! I had some sort of "foil" on the fore end crack and looked really bad. For $75 I thought it was a good project. Turned out to be one of my best buys. I'll post some pictures later.
It has a serial number in the 9,000 range with the safety inside the trigger. I'm thinking it might be one of the first batch of 10K that where produced?
I've shot more than a few doves with it and it fits me like a glove. Can't imagine spending big bucks for anything similar.
I have a couple of questions.
First, is the safety rough and stiff by nature on these inside the trigger units? I avoid using mine. I'd rather clear the chamber than be poking my big yam inside the trigger guard and pulling back on that thing to put the safety on.
Second, I've begun to have a feeding problem where the carrier latch assembly stops a shell from being fed. It doesn't appear to retract far enough to get out of the way of the shell as it comes out of the tube.
I've taken the gun down several times, one, just to see what it looked like and how it worked, and to get oil out that one of my friends sprayed in there when the feeding problem showed up. (He still doesn't understand the feeding is dependent upon components other than the bolt!)
Any ideas?
I'm glad someone resurrected this old thread!
 
Model 11

GREATNW , these guns are not that hard to take completly apart all you need is a good set of hollow ground screw drivers you can go to midwest gun works they have a good set of instructions on how to disassemble . You can also google arts gun shop he has vidieos that show the restoration process of a Browning A5 this gun is what your model 11 was coppied from . Art also has a vidieo on disassembly of a Browning A5 , I have two Browning A5's and a model 11 they are almost the same gun .If your gun is that old it probably has 100 years of dirt , grime , and gunpowder residue inside , I know both of my old guns did.
 
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bardesa, I think you may need to try a box of heavier/stronger "light loads". Those recoil-operated guns take a fair amount of power to cycle the action and maybe the reason you had problems was that the loads you were shooting worked fine with a clean action but started failing when it got dirty.

Here is a great video of how to disassemble the Remington model 11 or Browning A5.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAPY84sR1wY
 
Thanks Tiny Tim,
I've had it apart a couple of times. I was afraid that maybe I did something wrong but don't think I did. I didn't take the firing pin out but that was really it the only thing I didn't do. It was easier to work on than I thought it would be. I'm thinking that the mag tube spring needs to be replaced. It has a three or four inch plug and spring. Just looks stretched out and weak to me. But I don't have anything to compare it to.
 
Model 11 Remington full choke barrel shotgun

I bought this gun from an older man selling it today . Wondering if I got a good deal my friend says I " absoultly did " paid $225 It has 408476 inscribed on it. The sides have a picture of a flying Pheasant . He had asked $275.
 
Welcome, Ernie. Any 11 that's not a mass of rust or has been subjected to Bubba, the Anti Gunsmith is well worth what you paid and more.

As with ALL older shotguns a visit to Mr GunSmith is in order. I suggest getting new rings and springs (A5 parts work here not much else interchanges) and a new fiber buffer while it's there. And a deep clean, like most JMB designs, the interior is no place for a tyro.

Enjoy....
 
Hello Friends Looking for some help.

I have lost the barrel to my remington model 11 20 gauge. In transit it was stolen part of my gun was recovered by BATF but I need the barrel, this gun has a lot of sentimental value to me.
 
I'm recent owner of a model 11 and I'm having some issues with the gun. It was handed down to me from my grandad. It's a 20 gauge and the serial number is 1029326. I'm curious to know when this gun was made so any help is appreciated.

The gun fires the first round with no problem but it does not eject the spent shell and of course it does not chamber the next shell. I think it is just in need of a through cleaning. Any suggestions?
 
I'm recent owner of a model 11 and I'm having some issues with the gun. It was handed down to me from my grandad. It's a 20 gauge and the serial number is 1029326. I'm curious to know when this gun was made so any help is appreciated.

The gun fires the first round with no problem but it does not eject the spent shell and of course it does not chamber the next shell. I think it is just in need of a through cleaning. Any suggestions?
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Gun can be dated only by the barrel code...Unfortunately, barrels on shotguns get changed...

If you are confident that the barrel is original to that shotgun, here is the code for dating the barrel:

http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/questions/barrelcodes

Below is a link to the Browning Auto 5 shotgun...Everything in the manual applies to the care and feeding of the Remington Model 11 except the magazine cutoff...

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/auto5_light_om_s.pdf
 
OK, I promised some pictures. BTW, serial number is 74XX.

I "refinished" the stock. Didn't have a clue what I was doing. Sanded down the wood around the tang to get to clean wood. Realize now that I could have simply used a product from Brownell's to get the human oil out of the wood and preserved the nice fit it had. Now maybe someone else won't make that boneheaded mistake. I even sprayed on a urethane finish which I wouldn't do again either. However, it is holding up extremely well. I bought the thing for $75 and after reading a little looked to me like it had no collector value. You can see the pitting on the barrel. Has some sort of parkerized finish.

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I bought this for $200 at a local swap meet held at the sportmans club here in Fresno CA. Remington states it was made in 1936, but can anyone tell me if the choke is original to this shotgun. Has a ribbed barrel to screw this choke on!! Also what is the best load to shoot from this!! Other than the bluing almost gone, this rifle is in great shape, no pitting, rust of any kind and I took it apart and the insides are real clean and well lubed. Tell me I got a good deal!!
 
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Welcome, and you got a deal. Fair Market Value in these parts would be $200-300.

TTBOMK, no variable devices were ever factory options on the 11s.

Any 2 3/4" load using lead will be fine. I'd skip the non toxics and slugs, but that's just a hunch on my part.

As with all pre WWII shotguns, a trip to see Mr Gunsmith is in order. A deep clean and checkover at least, and I'd spring for a new set of springs, rings and fiber buffer. That should be all you need for another 70 years.
 
New owner of Model 11 and new member.

Gentlemen, I am pleased to find this forum. Took quite a bit of searching. I just bought a model 11, actually its a Sportsman, 16 gauge with a 30" full choke. It is certainly a bit worn as expected but quite solid and no cracks in the stocks. I would say condition is 80 to 85%. But I can't find any info related to the serial number to date it with. Serial number is S204258 and there is a number on the barrel extension 502081 and I think an 'F', presumably the choke. The receiver is also marked "B Grade" below the Remington logo on the left side of the receiver. The wood, while dark and full of oil from years of use, looks like maybe a select grade.

I'm a novice on this gun but appreciate the Browning background (big fan of John Browning designs). Can anybody shed light on this beautiful and very usable relic and maybe suggest where new wood and barrels can be had?
 
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