Remington Model 11 questions

B

bardesa

Inactive
Guys,

New member to the forum and new gun owner of a fantastic Remington Model 11. I have been reading up on the gun after my grandad handed it down to me and have found out a fairly good amount on the Model 11. I still would like to know as much as possible about it because of its time in the family and good condition. My grandad used it vary little when he had it and it has sat in storage with my Uncle for god knows how long.

I plan to use it for target shooting as well as a number of hunts. The serial number is 286083. What is its age? I have heard that the last two digits in the serial code are significant to the guns age, but have also heard that the Model 11 was discontinued in 1947. Where can I get a disassembly guide for it for a proper cleaning? What size shell? Are there problems with shooting low/high brass and how does this affect the different friction ring I have read about? Steel vs. lead with this age shotgun? Should I just go ahead and get all of the springs replaced? As you can tell I need to know a lot so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all.

I plan to have pictures of the Model 11 ASAP.

Bardesa
 
Your gun is a 12 ga M11 and was made in 1924.

Whoever told you the last 2 digits were important is full of crap, ignore them.

If the gun is in proper condition it should handle all 2 3/4" 12 ga ammo, except for steel shot and other hard no-toz shells. Steel will bulge the barrel behind the choke.

Regarding ring settings, set them for high power shells and leave them there unless the gun will not cycle for you, then change it to the light setting. Many of these older guns are a little balky when asked to cycle really light loads like 1 oz light target loads, but 1 1/8 oz loads and up should give you know trouble

If it wont cycle on the light setting then something else is wrong, post a question and we'll help out.

Don't rush into taking it apart, these things work great and unless there is a good reason, don't take a chance on buggering up the screws. The spring replacement kits are a stupid marketing gimmick, most of those parts will never need to be replaced.

You have a priceless family legacy gun, treasure it.

Kind regards,

Jeff
 
I contacted Remington via the "Contact Us" tab on their website about mine. Told them the serial number and they told me when it was produced, what grade it was, etc. Did it pretty fast to. Less than 48 hours.
 
Thanks for all the info!! Here are some pictures.

-Bardesa
 

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Nice looking gun, someone put some effort into fixing it up. The blue was redone and the receiver shows evidence of buffing. The forend has been replaced and the stock may have been replaced, but at the very least was refinished.

Good fun and ready to shoot...

Jeff
 
Guys,

Went on a sporting clay trip yesterday and ran into a number of problems with my Model 11. Two weeks ago I shot about 75 clays with a friend of mine and only ran into one problem when a shell would not fully eject. I was using a Remington low brass, 6 shot, at 1 1/8 oz. This only happened once in 75 shots so I didn't think anything of it.

Yesterday I was shooting at a sporting clay course and had problems with almost every shot I took using number 8 shot at 1 oz. The gun either would not ejected the empty shell, or the barrel would stick in the recoil position. I tried a number of different types of shells thinking it may be the brand of shell I was using. Also, when starting I used the same box of remington shells I had used a couple of weeks ago with the same problem with each shell not ejecting or barrel sticking. I finally got to one box where the shells would eject properly. Once I got rid of the ejection issue with these new shells, I had problems with the firing pin not making good contact with the shells primer and the gun did not fire consistently. Any thoughts or recommendations?? Thanks.

-Bardesa
 
I have an earlier one S/N 114117 try lubing the friction ring contact area of the tube magazine under the foreend also there is a ring between the friction ring and the barrel lug that goes around the magazine flat side to friction ring for low base and beveled side to friction ring for high brass. upon firing the barrel travels back with the bolt that is why the friction ring on the mag tube. Have fun with it and get spare wood they tend to split stocks and forends.
 
Bardessa,
Sounds like you're just on the edge of friction problems, as ammomaster suggested, a bit of lube on the magazine tube will probably help, was it much colder temperatures? Could be just enough to effect the load.
On the firing pin though, I'd recommend, (sorry Jeff), taking her right down and giving the internals a good clean and light oil. I think yours will be an early square back firing pin. I've recently had my Model 11 apart, the only tricky bit I found was the bolt removal, course I read the manual AFTER I figgered it out, lol. That hole in the LH side of the receiver is there for a reason, {:o). (I've got a broken mainspring which is on its way).
Here's a link to the Browning A5 service manual, which is so close to the Remington build that it don't matter, there ARE differences and parts do not necessarily interchange, but the procedures and disassembly/assembly are for all practical purposes, identical. http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/browning-auto-5
Cheers,
R*2
 
Well thanks for the help! After I had the barrel stick a couple of time I did lube the recoil spring and area under the forend and this helped that problem. As for the weather, it was fairly cool day, around 50 F so more than likely not a problem.

I have also ordered a owners manual from Remington but it has yet to arrive. Once it gets here I will break in down and give it a cleaning. I am hoping that the problems are a simple fix with some cleaning and TLC. Again, thanks for the help and I will post my findings when the manual gets here.

-Bardesa
 
model 11

Just traded a Mossin Nagant for a Model 11. It was made in 1923. It's got a 32" full choke barrel on it. There are no cracks in the bolt or anything. It was filthy and filled with carbon and gunk when I got it to the point that I could hardly charge the bolt. I cleaned it out thoroughly and oiled it (blueing is completely gone). I used a brilo pad and oil to remove small surface rust spots. Does anyone know where I could get a shorter barrel? I'd like to use this one for hunting and a shorter barrel for home defense. Also does anyone know where I could get notch sights for deer hunting? Tried to post pics, but couldn't will try later.
 
Reb,
Well, I just got a 26" IC for mine, or at least won it on GunBroker. Hard to find barrels at anything approaching reasonable $'s. And I'm bettin' you don't want to trade for your 32" Full, does it have a rib? Sights, probably a good gunsmith is your best bet. Certainly haven't found any guns with slug set up barrels.
Cheers,
R*2
 
Thanks for the input. No, it doesn't haven't a rib, and yes I do plan on keeping the barrel. I haven't seen many of these old 11 barrels for sale in this length and choke (although I'd still rather have a shorter modified choke). I might just buy a simple old cheap double barrel and cut it short for home defense if I can't find a shorter barrel to interchange for this one.

Do you have any recommendations for shot? I know I need to stear away from steel pellets, but do you have a reccommendation for a good soft substitute shot to substitute the now-banned lead?

I noticed looking at a diagram that I was missing my friction ring. Somebody probably took it off to shoot a lighter load and lost it and a long time ago. I ordered that, some new screws, a new buffer spring, and a new friction pad for behind the bolt. I got it all relatively cheap on e-gunparts.com, which is also one of the fews places I found that carry's model 11 parts and is still set up for modern internet shopping.

Thanks.
 
interchangeable barrels?

Are there any other brands or remington models with barrels that will interchange with an older model 11? Mine's a 1923. I got my friction ring and a new buffer spring, plus a few other things for my 11 and went out and shot it with lead 4 shot the other. With my 30 inch full choke it'll be a great goose gun and I'll just swap in some 00 buck for home defense and deer season, but I'd like to find a 20 inch barrel or one I can shorten to 18 for the home. I'm military, and call me paranoid, but I like the idea of interchanging to a shorter barrel for around the house. Thanks for any tips (got a recoil pad for it, because even with my additions, the sucker kicks like a mule, lol). Great shootin' and super reliable old gun.
 
rem 11

I just sold mine and regret it already. If anyone ever needs parts let me know, I have quite a few. If you are having cycling problems clean off all the lube and use something lighter. I really like the remington dri lube. it doesnt tend to gum up so much. CW
 
It's cycling fine, but just kicks hard because I put a lot of lube on the friction assembly around the magazine tube when I first cleaned it without knowing any better. I learned the error of my ways, but then forgot about it before I went to shoot (Keystone mixed with target pratice, maybe not quite so safe). Wiped it down after I cleaned it again. Found a 19" barrel I might buy. Does anyone have an idea how this might effect the recoil my shotgun. I was thinking if I go too short I might get some cycling problems because of the reduction in recoil (could always set the gun up for lighter loads to compensate on the recoil if need be by taking the friction ring off and putting it behind the friction spring out of the way).

I'll try the dry lube you mentioned
Thanks.
 
Model 11

I had to give a double take on your model 11. My serial is 216083. I don't know its age either. Remington is always busy and ends my call when I think to ask. I am in the process of redoing my dad's shotgun. It needed everything. If I can get it looking as good as yours, then I'm happy. The bluing is done and I've got to figure out how to extend the stock. It was chopped down an inch and a half and had a slip on recoil pad. What do you guys think of this....the stock is walnut, add in 1/8" of maple as a separator, then finishing it out in cherry? Since I'd prefer to add to the existing stock because it was my dad's, I want to celebrate the extension instead of covering it up...which wouldn't look great anyway. It would also personalize it. Thoughts? Thanks!
 
Spifferino,
Yep to your idea! Make a feature of it because you'll NEVER be able to match it, not unless you got the original cut off piece of wood. I just picked up a stock on Ebay that I've got fitted to my 16ga, now the whittling begins.
Cheers,
R*2
Rem1116gaStock1.jpg

Rem11_16gaStock2.jpg
 
Hey, you're alot more ambitious than I am. How do you line up the action correctly inside the new stock? Yep, I like features. =)
 
Spiff,
You buy it already "semi-inletted", ie. the action spring hole and the tang slots are machined fairly close, and require some fitting. The external surface is rough, and needs a LOT removed, but the basic shape is there. Gunpartscorp has 'em fairly reasonable. I think ~ $50. I grabbed this off Ebay for around $60 with shipping. Old original ones pop up occassionally on Ebay.
Cheers,
R*2
 
Hey all,

New member and as of recent a new gun owner. I've recently inherited a Remington model 11 that belonged to my great-grandfather, serial no. 108991. It has remained out of use and in storage for nearly 50 years and I'm sure requires a lot of work before it is again fireable. Not to sound like an ignorant gun newbie (although I am, and freely admit that i know almost nothing about any form of firearm) but the gun was stored with two barrels for a model 11, and neither one was attatched to the gun. I'm not entirely sure how to put either on and I don't want to damage any part of it foolishly trying to mash random parts together. could someone help me get a barrel on?lol
 
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