Hey guys, I recently purchased a Remington 700 long range chambered in .300 win mag. The scope that I purchased for it is a Nightforce 5.5x22-56 atacr f1 (34 mm tube). I'm not trying to build this thing to shoot out to 3,000 yards or get crazy this is my first bolt gun. However, I would like to maximize the accuracy and range of it, and the more I'm reading about rings and bases the more confused I am. Does anybody have any suggestions on what size base I should get and what size rings I should buy ? I know the small is to small but it medium too small as well ? I'd like the scope as close to the barrel as possible.
Remington 700 long range scope help !!!
- Thread starter Bigcat
- Start date
I just went thru this same delimma. I put the Warne pictanny base and rings on my 700, I used the medium height rings. My scope is a 6x20x50mm with 30mm main tube. If I went any lower the bolt would possibly hit any scope covers when actuated (they just clear but I feel that the low height rings would have worked too, sans covers...) so comparing to my 50mm objective if yours is 52 my guess is I would try the medium height Warne rings to start with. Something to consider with the pictanny base is Warne rings are easy to swap and not that expensive if you decide you need to go the next height up... there really isn’t a way to precisely know until you try. Start low height rings if your undecided.
If you just invested in a Nightforce then spend the money on the best base and and rings you can afford. You've just bought a golden egg of a scope, so don't skimp on what holds it to the rifle. There are varying degrees of quality amongst scope rings and bases. You won't be disappointed buying good equipment, but you will if you buy lower cost stuff that you end up replacing later.
Seekins, Vortex, Trijicon, Nightforce, they all have good rings and are all probably made by the same people. Bases are where you need to decide whether you want a flat base ( 0 MOA) or angled (10-20-30 MOA). Just depends on how much adjustment your scope has and how far you're wanting to shoot.
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Seekins, Vortex, Trijicon, Nightforce, they all have good rings and are all probably made by the same people. Bases are where you need to decide whether you want a flat base ( 0 MOA) or angled (10-20-30 MOA). Just depends on how much adjustment your scope has and how far you're wanting to shoot.
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@ O. Heir. Not that it is a real big thing but not sure where you got the specs but they are off. It is a 34mm tube and is a bit heavier at 38oz and FOV is 1.5 M at 25X at 100yds.
You would be best served with a 20MOA base, as far as ring height you can always call the folks at NF and they will help you out.
You would be best served with a 20MOA base, as far as ring height you can always call the folks at NF and they will help you out.
Hey thank you all for the responses I really appreciate ur time! The manual says 34 mm tube I guess I could measure that to be sure. I'm all for buying the best rings and base, I mean if I'be paid 2k for a scope I'm not gonna skip on the rings and base. I guess I should have mentioned I'm loking to build this rifle to have fun at maximum 1000yards (i.e. Milk jugs steel gongs etc) my goal would be to be proficient at 600yds and have a rifle that I can't hunt elk and deer with at maximum 300 yds . But this is what I'm confused about will I loose adjustment with taller or shorter rings ? What's the difference between a 0,10,20 MOA base ?
The angled bases i.e. 20 MOA will do a couple of things for you. One it will let you make the most of your overall elevation adjustment. So say you have a scope with 100 MOA elevation and when mounted on a flat 0 base and zeroed it happens to be in the exact mechanical center being 50 MOA, now you only have 50 MOA of adjustment left. Where is on a 20 MOA ass you would have 70. Now the number two reason. using the same example when you start to adjust, you are adjusting away from center of all the lenses which is the optically superior part of the glass.
In a down and dirty quick explanation.
In a down and dirty quick explanation.
Thank you for explaining that! So I called Nightforce today at 5 and spoke with one of their customer service reps and he worked with me to help forgive out what would most likely fit . Their customer service is awesome! So I ordered a Nightforce 20 MOA base and a set of medium (1") rings hopefully it's fits
What's your centerfire shooting experience? AR-15?
Unless you're coming off an AR-10, FAL, etc. where you at least have some experience with medium-power centerfires- choosing the .300 WM as your first bolt gun is a questionable choice, for a couple of reasons.
Even experienced shooters can have a tough time with LR accuracy with this magnum. Respectfully suggest you consider a suppressor or brake to reduce felt recoil- which not only will help with reducing the flinch you're going to be prone to develop- but will also allow you to put a decent number of rounds downrange before you say "no mas".
If you're just getting into LR target- the key to your success is trigger time/rounds sent downrange. You'll be hard pressed to want to shoot more than a couple of dozen rounds in a trip.
Which begs the question in my mind- why the .300 WM for your first bolt gun?
Topnbr: yes I do own an ar-15 but the recoil I know is nothing comparable at all. Most of the time I've had behind a bolt gun was .308 and .243 neither mine but the recoil felt pretty light. I've shot trap my whole life 12ga and shot everything from light loads to protection shoot off shells to hunting with 3 n1/2 in goose loads and although I don't like em it doesn't bother me too much I'm not really worried about it . I know theres better choices for calibers but I know mind the challenge, plus I'm not going to be shooting it any competitions at least probably not with this. The only other reason I chose the .300 win is that even in the worst ammo shortages I've always been able to buy it. Granted I'll be reloading but it nice to be able to buy it whenever. I also am planing to have the barrel threaded for a muzzle break like you said I'll take the less felt recoil to help reduce the chance of developing a flinch. I probably will throw a trigger in it down the road though. Witch while we're on the topic wizrd you got any suggestions on triggers or anyone for that matter ? Jewel or timey or something else ?
Trigger for 700
Bigcat, if you have the old style 700 trigger, a competent Smith can make the trigger nice.
I have, and have installed a lot of Timney's, I've also installed the Rifle Basics trigger and they are nice also, never have used a Jewel.
Good trigger and great scope are two things that help a shooter at long distance, but there's the stock and fine tuning ammunition, as those two are important also.
Good luck and Happy shooting dude.
Bigcat, if you have the old style 700 trigger, a competent Smith can make the trigger nice.
I have, and have installed a lot of Timney's, I've also installed the Rifle Basics trigger and they are nice also, never have used a Jewel.
Good trigger and great scope are two things that help a shooter at long distance, but there's the stock and fine tuning ammunition, as those two are important also.
Good luck and Happy shooting dude.
Bigcat: If you don't like 3.5s in a shotgun you won't like the 300!
However, you have made the jump so there are some ways to live with it.
Get a Limbsaver or equal recoil pad, huge help. It can be a slip on or permanent, slip on for sure at the range is handy, hunting you won't notice it off, you sure want it if you are doing targets at 1000 yds for more than a couple.
Once you get some range time decide on the muzzle brake, big help, a bit costly as it requires gun smith to machine the threads on the rifle and the break (research that well, cheap brake is looks only)
and after that:
note to self: Research and ask questions before jumping into things.
6.0, 6.5 various types will get you 1000 with no recoil, deer do not need 300 mag, 308 with right bullets will bet you 1000, Rem 260 or Win 280 will.
Its not about the boom, its about the bullet weight, speed and its ballistic efficiency.
Snipping at 1000+ is a different game trying to kill things and that's where the 338 Lapua and 300 wm result from.
Me, I shot 308 and 30-06 (with a recoil pad if its the light 30-06)
However, you have made the jump so there are some ways to live with it.
Get a Limbsaver or equal recoil pad, huge help. It can be a slip on or permanent, slip on for sure at the range is handy, hunting you won't notice it off, you sure want it if you are doing targets at 1000 yds for more than a couple.
Once you get some range time decide on the muzzle brake, big help, a bit costly as it requires gun smith to machine the threads on the rifle and the break (research that well, cheap brake is looks only)
and after that:
note to self: Research and ask questions before jumping into things.
6.0, 6.5 various types will get you 1000 with no recoil, deer do not need 300 mag, 308 with right bullets will bet you 1000, Rem 260 or Win 280 will.
Its not about the boom, its about the bullet weight, speed and its ballistic efficiency.
Snipping at 1000+ is a different game trying to kill things and that's where the 338 Lapua and 300 wm result from.
Me, I shot 308 and 30-06 (with a recoil pad if its the light 30-06)
Bigcat, I'm a bench rest shooter Rem.700 308 cal. Nightforce scope , base & rings, your in good hands. Remember when mounting the base & rings mounts, pressure is towards the muzzle. I have a Jewell trigger in mine, ordered from Jewell, had it set to 10 ounces. To light for you 2 lbs for LR hunting would be safer. Jewell has 3 types of triggers, they are easy to install. Do you have a torque ranch to set your base & rings? Are you shooting from a bi-pod? Bedding the action may also be in the future. Good luck with your new toy. Hope I helped.
Hey guys thanks again for all your help and answers! I apologize for not go ing you all plans and what I want of of this rifle. I'm going to get everything I need together rings base scope muzzle break trigger recoil pad kickeez or limb saver have it bedded and drop everything off at the gun smith and call me when the dust settles . Like I said I'm not shooting competition just going out for fun at 1000yds I went with the .300 because of available ammo near me even though I'll be reloading, but I' might use this rifle for elk or moose in the near future as well so I was looking for something that would be an all in one for the time being and later maybe build different rifles for different applications . However you guys have courteous about recoil so I'm gonna send one down range tomorrow I just watched some videos on YouTube it doesn't seem to bad I'll find out tomorrow! Thanks again for all your help guys !
I shoot 600 yds frequently and i also have very poor eyes. I originally bought a sightron 8-32x56 and in hindsight its a bit too much at full power. My magnification sweet spot is 18-24x . I used the same sightron scope when i took the sig saur 1000 yd instructional class and 32 power was perfect for that.
Nightforce Extreme Duty Ultralight
You are correct. The tube is 34mm. I have the exact same scope and it is excellent. I would try the 1” (medium) Nightforce rings with a good 20 MOA rail. I use the 6 hole version on the rings for more grip.
Leopold MK4, Badger, Stiller, make good rails for that action. You might call Stiller and see if he makes one for the Rem 700. I think he does. I have that one but it is for the Stiller action.
Unfortunately, there is some trial and error for the base heights. If the 1” does not fit, you will have to exchange them.
Also, if you really do plan on shooting at those ranges, you will probably want to get yourself a match grade barrel and have a good Smith chamber and true the action. Few factory barrels will give you the accuracy you need for long range.
You will probably need to start reloading too. Same deal with factory ammo.
Mark 4 Remington 700 LA/Super Mag Long Range 1-pc.
You are correct. The tube is 34mm. I have the exact same scope and it is excellent. I would try the 1” (medium) Nightforce rings with a good 20 MOA rail. I use the 6 hole version on the rings for more grip.
Leopold MK4, Badger, Stiller, make good rails for that action. You might call Stiller and see if he makes one for the Rem 700. I think he does. I have that one but it is for the Stiller action.
Unfortunately, there is some trial and error for the base heights. If the 1” does not fit, you will have to exchange them.
Also, if you really do plan on shooting at those ranges, you will probably want to get yourself a match grade barrel and have a good Smith chamber and true the action. Few factory barrels will give you the accuracy you need for long range.
You will probably need to start reloading too. Same deal with factory ammo.
Mark 4 Remington 700 LA/Super Mag Long Range 1-pc.
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