Remington 700 bolt extraction problem, Help!

S

sharpish shooter

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I just got a Rem. 700 SPS Varmint and I can't get the bolt to come out after each shot I fire. An unfired round cycles fine but after I fire it, the bolt jams up. Please copy and paste this link and watch a little you tube video I made on it. It's only 1 min 30 sec. Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thank you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkNUCUaEINE
 
Thanks for the Replies! I haven't tried different ammo yet but the guys at the gun shop said that everyone has been pretty happy with them. Is there anything else that would cause over pressuring besides the round? Also, I would think that I'd be able to see some kind of swelling or a difference between the spent casing and a live round but I can't. I attached pictures of the primer and a side by side view.



http://s1342.beta.photobucket.com/user/Jarom_Hunter/library/?
 
that photo isnt the best but that looks like a bit of cratering going on. if you run your finger over it slowly is it smooth and flush or jutting out and rough? at all?
 
you know this thread caught my eye because down here in aus i got very similar problems with magtech 308 ammo. apparently magtech pistol ammo is good but i dare not try after that problem in the 308.

so i google it and :eek: low and behold. guess who makes magtech ammo. yup. cbc.

a different brand of ammo will solve your problem. don't run that junk through your gun again.
 
CBC apparently makes ammo for military and police forces in brazil. It's possible that their standards are intended to work in semi-auto military auto chambers like the FAL and similar, hence these problems might not show up in those guns but would in the tighter bolt action chambers. just a speculation on my part but plausible in my mind.

Im aware of SAAMI standards but who knows.
 
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Nice looking set up by the way. I watched your video and agree with everyone else. A brand name ammo should take care of everything.
 
I saw no pressure signs on the primer (no obvious cratering, edges still soft, etc), nor did I see
ejector slot burnishing on the case head.... AND you did not have sticky bolt lift.
I doubt you have a pressure problem.

Instead I suspect rough/possibly oblong-ish chamber-wall-to-case fit.

TEST: Polish the he$$ out of a loaded case -- make it absolutely shine and slicker than glass.
Might even rub a bit of nose oil on it before chambering.

Fire, and see if you still have an extraction issue.
 
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Hard to close on a fired case?

Well, that's because the case has expanded. It does that after being fired.

Hard to open on that fired case?

I suspect the pressure is too high. Inspect the spent case. Has the primer been flattened? If so, don't shoot that ammo anymore. The pressure is too high. Switch ammo.
 
Although it is possible that it is the ammo, I'd say probably not. You say you just got the rifle but it doesn't look new. did you buy it used? What do you know about the history of it? I wonder if the chamber has been damaged or was reamed incorrectly.

No matter what ammo you fire, it will fireform to the chamber. The chamber is supposed to have a slight taper from back to front to assist with extraction. if your chamber isn't tapered or if there is a wide spot near the shoulder, then your spent shells will become stuck.

Get a micrometer or good set of calipers and measure the diameter at several points along the length of the casing and compare to a new round.

--Jerry
 
If you have a micrometer measure the diameter of the case .200" up from case rim.

It should measure .471-.473". Measure in two orientations to see if fired case is egg shaped.

What is diameter of case neck on fired case? Should be around .344.

Also measure case at shoulder and two dimensions and see if it is egg shaped there.

Ammo has a NATO symbol so case specs should be in spec.

Fire US commercial ammo and see what happens.

If you run fired case in FL sizing die will it go back in? I suspect the ammo is Berdan primer so remove decap rod before sizing case.

If it happens with US made commercial 308 call Remington Product Service in North Carolina and give them the details and email them the you tube link. Chances are good when you send rifle in they will send you a new barreled action with differen serial number.
 
That little bit of cratering around the firing pin dent , looks more like the sign of a well used bolt to me . I don't see any high pressure signs ! My bet would be on an oblong chamber , or a pitted or rusty chamber ! This is based on the fact that you aren't experiencing sticky bolt lift .
 
This is based on the fact that you aren't experiencing sticky bolt lift .
Click to expand...
I don't understand where anyone got the idea that he wasn't experiencing sticky bolt lift. He never said either way that I can see and in the video he never got the bolt to close on the fired casing which doesn't really indicate whether he had a bolt lift problem or not. It appears just like excess pressure to me although you can't really see any signs of it from the pictures. I had a few reloads that the bolt didn't want to close on and upon inspection realized that the primers were not fully seated. This would be the same thing if the primers were pushed back upon firing but again, you can't really tell from the pictures. Personally, I would rule out an ammo problem first by trying some standard off the shelf brand ammo like Remington or Winchester and if the problem still persists, contact Remington or find a competent gunsmith.
 
A guy brought a Remington 700 Tactical 308 to me about three weeks ago with exact same problem.

I ran headspace gage in it and it would not shut on a GO Gage. I pulled out the bore scope for a looksee and found the chamber thoroughly rusted. Upon questioning I learned he had taken it hunting in the rain, came home and put rifle with chambered round in gun cabinet and forgot about it.

Next time he went to shoot the round chambered fine but when fired and bolt manipulated it was froze up.

I pulled the barrel and first and cut threads and tried to put him a min chamber in with tighter neck and the Remington chamber was jumbo so I wound up putting him a SAAMI spec chamber it it and cleaned all the body and most all the neck removing the pits.

Put barrel back on and chambered it tighter on headspace and he went out and shot it and it did fine. He was very lucky as there was no pitting up in rifling. Otherwise he would have been out 350.00 for a barrel job.
 
Remington 700 sps extracor issue

So I just bought a new Remington 700 sps 7mm and decided to take it to the range tonight. I fired the first shot and then I couldn't eject the cartridge. I waited a few minutes to cool the gun down and finally got the round out by banging the poop out of it. I took a look at the casing and seen that the brass had gouges around the base! It looks like the extractor is the problem. Then I tried to eject an unfired round and had the same issue. This is the first remington rifle I have owned and probably the last. I hope the store will take it back. After reading these posts my confidence in remington is very low.

:mad::mad::mad:
 
Not to insult your intelligence, but what 7mm is stamped on the barrel, and what 7mm is printed on the box of ammo?

Jimro
 
I'm incline to disagree with some of the comments. When I enlarge the photo, I see cratering od the primer, plus what appears to be signs od gas leakage around the outer eges of the primer. I addition, I see what appears to possibly be an ejector mark slightly to the right of the 12 O'Clock position on the case head. Methinks pressure is a factor here.
I also agree that good factory ammo should be tried to insure the problem is not elsewhere, like a bulged chamber.
It sure would be nice if the OP was local so that I could inspect the fired shell and the rifle.
Paul B.
 
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