Remington 700 BDL

Hi roklok, I will not change anything to the trigger and safety of this BDL. I like the way it looks and functions so far. Locking the bolt down when it's on safety doesn't really bother me much.

Hi Panfisher, thanks for the comment. Yeah, I will clean her again and maybe this weekend I'll be able to punch a hole in a paper.
 
I'm just curious. Why the bolt lock feature so desirable? Thanks.

It's not. That is why people change it. Opening the bolt while the safety is on is a good thing. It's just that the idiots at Remington thought the other way for a while.
 
It's not. That is why people change it. Opening the bolt while the safety is on is a good thing. It's just that the idiots at Remington thought the other way for a while.
Well looks like more people than just Remington employees think that way. Read the posts and you will see. But the posters didn't explain why the reason behind the feature.

-TL
 
The reason I prefer a safety that locks the bolt on a hunting rifle is this: One less thing to have go wrong, or worry about going wrong before a shot at game. It is one thing to lose a shot at a deer because your bolt was not fully closed, it is entirely another matter if your rifle misfires because of a partially open bolt when something mean and nasty is headed your way. I have a friend who had misfires on two bucks over the years because his bolt handle was not completely closed. I have a strong opinion on this, a bolt rifle I use for any kind of serious hunting WILL have a bolt that locks shut. It is not only Remington that had this feature, the early Ruger 77 tang safety models locked the bolt, later ones did not. Of course, the 77MKII locks the bolt in the third position. Tikka still has a two position safety that locks the bolt when safe. It is the way it should be. It was deleted by some makers because of folks who failed to follow one or more safety rules while unloading their firearms. A real shame in my opinion.

Another reason to have a locking bolt. I was on a horseback elk hunt in Montana years ago before I swapped in the locking safety on my 700. The bolt would not lock shut, and the retention feature of the leather scabbard relied on a flap that closed around the bolt handle. The whole hunt, I was worried about losing my rifle, because the bolt would open and pull through the flap, and rifle would not be secured.
 
Roklok, I can see your points. The other side of the equation is that you have to render the trigger "unsafe" in order to clear a misfire.

I personally think that the ideal safety is the winchester style 3-position safety.
 
Well, went to the range yesterday but forgot to bring my Limb saver. This thing kicked more than I thought. I only fired six shots don't want to bruise my shoulder. But from what I can see this thing is pretty accurate except for the trigger was kind of heavy for me. There's a couple of times were I thought the safety was on. I will probably replace the trigger with something a little better.

BTW, how much do you guys think Remington will charge for re-bluing the rifle? I noticed a rusted spot on the barrel and used a fine sand paper (2000grade) to remove it but it took some of the bluing also. I used a permanent marker to cover it up. LOL...
 
The trigger is adjustable. But I think you should bring it to a gunsmith to do it for you. No offence intended here, you don't sound very familiar with the Remington 700 fire control.

The safety blocks the main sear, not the trigger. The trigger should actually feel slightly lighter and have the full travel with safety on.

I personally don't want to adjust the trigger weight below 3lb, and I will see to it that there is enough engagement between the connector bar and the secondary sear, and that engagement should be neutral and never negative. The trigger mechanism should be free of grease and oil of any kind, especially wd40. That how people got into trouble with their rem 700.

-TL
 
tangolima, no offense taken. Don't really want to tinker around the trigger mechanism of any guns. I'll probably have the trigger replace with a Timney or a Brownell trigger.

Now how about bluing issue I have. I saw a kit at Academy for bluing. Can I just apply the bluing on one spot or I have to do it on the whole thing?
 
The results of cold bluing have never been what I consider high quality. If it were me, I would either:
1. Leave it alone.
2. Take it to a professional to hot blue it.
3. Take it to a professional to put a modern coating on it. (Cerakote, Black T. etc.)
 
Thanks guys for the recommendation on the bluing. I'll check with Remington to see how much they charge or if they even offered bluing as one of the services for their customers.
 
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