Remington 700 and bore streaks on rifling

Wipe Out-Patch Out...this is the easiest and most effective copper remover I have ever used. Supposed to be NON-TOXIC. I came upon this wanting to find a method that would be less rough on the rifle bore removing copper fouling from the M1.

If for a lever gun or M1 I use a bore snake. If for a bolt gun a rod and bore guide.

Apply it to a patch and I usually run two patches through the bore and let it set over night. Next day I run another wet patch and you can really see how it works as patch comes out a heavy blue or green, no need for a brush but sometimes I use a nylon one..how many times I do this depends on the degree of fouling

Follow with dry patches until relatively clean. Lastly an alcohol patch followed by a BF CLP patch for preservative. That's it. Easy on you, easy on the weapon.

As an aside, some guys don't worry about copper streaks too much and some not at all. My brother has had a S&W (Howa) 30-06 for about 25 years and has never used copper solvent. A patch of Hoppes #9 foliowed by some gun oil and thats it! But he only shoots about a half a box of shells a year. And one for a deer:)
 
The purpose of the alcohol is to neutralize the ammonia that it is a lot of copper removing solvents. Not saying it doesn't work, but I use Kroil after I remove copper and it works well for me
 
I use an alcohol patch after the dry patches because alcohol is a solvent degreaser and it is my idea that it will remove what wipe-out is in the bore before I put a preservative patch in. I am leery about chemical reactions of different lubes, cleaners, etc. Sometimes run a dry patch after the alcohol but it drys pretty quick on it's own.

I use Ballistol after cleaning a black powder rifle bore with hot water. An alcohol patch followed by a dry patch clears the Ballistol from the bore before I shoot it again so as not to contaminate the black powder load with the Ballistol.

Might not be necessary but so far all is well.
 
I use alcohol after Darrell Holland's witch's brew for the last year.

https://www.hollandguns.com/
click on maintenance [i forget how to link to a page buried in frames]

It says "flush with Alcohol" on the label, which I have lost. How did I lose the label? I am experimenting with how to decant witches brew to something that will not vent Kroil odor in my vehicle with temperature changes. My current scheme uses a vented lab bottle that I punch out the vent:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OBYXBE?psc=1&redirect=true
Other lab bottles have failed. The vehicle has more temperature change than the average shop or lab.

Already, for 13 years I have been using alcohol and then dry patch before moly burnishing.
 
WendyJ, the first barrel on my rifle( Rem. 700 LTR 308 ) was on the rough side, used JB Compound & Kroil oil every third cleaning. Regularly cleaned with Wipe Out - Patch Out. It kept the barrel clean & accurate. After 4000+ rounds down the barrel. Had it trued, new match barrel installed. Asked gunsmith ( Accurate Ordinance ) to recommend a cleaner. Advised me to try KG-1 for carbon & KG- 12 for copper followed each step with dry patch followed with a patch with Hoppe's #9 dry patch 1 pass with Kroil oil , dry patch out before shooting. Works great first shot is dead on , no foul shots. Before I ordered the KG used the Wipe Out, when I received the KG cleaners , the barrel was cleaned with Wipe out used the KG on what I thought was clean barrel, patch came out brown ( carbon ) I use Wipe Out at the range for a quick clean, clean it with KG when I get home. Starting to ramble on & the debates are coming on. Hope I helped . Sorry it was the long version .
 
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