Reloading

I have H4831 in the cart but got busy at work and never hit the complete button. From the factory ammo I have put through there so far federal fusion, remington core-loct, federal blue box, and hornady superformance sst, my rifle is not picky on ammo. I have no problem switching to another powder if it would provide higher velocity I switched out the ballistic tips and will buy some sierra prohunters, hornady interlocks, speer hot-cor. and gamekings. Any advice on a powder that will produce higher velocities than the H4831 that work well with the 270?
 
There are a whole lot of good powders that are suitable for the job, more choices than anyone has time or budget enough to get around to trying in an exhaustive-try-everything-test. That's why we all like to have half-a-dozen or so reloading manuals to reference, because even those folks can't test it all, or they would never get there manual finished to publish it. I have used a lot of different powders in the 270. The most magical powder I have encountered for it is Norma N205. But I cannot recommend it to you as it is no longer made and if you chance upon some at a gunshow it will almost certainly be 40 years old by now. Somehow, I have never tried IMR-4350. Yet I recommended it to you because it has a well-earned reputation in this application for producing high velocity with 130 grain bullets, even in 22" barrels, along with outstanding accuracy, in almost any 270 Winchester rifle. So it's a go-to powder to get on the fast track to success, a good place to start. Another excellent powder is IMR-4831, it's just a little slower burning than IMR-4350, but it's important not to confuse it with H-4831 as they are not the same and have substantially different load data.
 
With the 22" tube, and 130's, I'd try something a bit faster than H-4831 ...... Maybe RL-19 or even IMR4064.

Remember, high velocity is not everything: if you don't have consistent velocities shot to shot, and consistently small groups, you ain't got nothin'.
 
130 grain (non bonded) bullets like the bt can severely limit your take with a 270 if you hunt for meat. I've had several folks come up to me and ask me why they blew their deer in half with the bt's and have pictures readily available. I prefer bonded bullets in the 270 because they have the perfect combination of expansion and penetration on deer sized game. I also love the accuracy I've attained from Speer btsp. Most bullets available for the 270 will grant a good bang flop for deer at reasonable ranges but from experience the 130 non bonded bullets are a bit too explosive and can ruin a lot of meat.


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did a test with jack conners load with4831sc. used Sierra ,horned and Speer. SGK was the tightest group .hdy next ,than Speer ,slight change in POI
 
I prefer bonded bullets in the 270 because they have the perfect combination of expansion and penetration on deer sized game.

The bonded bullets have much more penetration than necessary for whitetails, and that can be a bad thing, IME. I don't have a lot of experience with the all metal bullets (just two post mortems) but they looked to be even worse in that department:

Unless you like poo-flavored venison, you pretty much can't shoot at a deer at short range that is facing you. If it's coming down a trail towards you, you are not going to get a broadside shot...... he'll keep coming til he busts you, and then you'll have a running Texas Heart Shot opportunity, or none at all.

Add that to the fact that they cost twice as much or more, and I can't see why anybody would hunt deer with them. YMMV.
 
I've found the perfect powder for hot loads in the .270 Win. It's Reloder 22 for me. I use 59.8 grains with a 130 grain BT, or Hornady GMX and CCI Magnum primers. Velocity Cronos at 3,200 fps and it's very consistent. Pressure is reasonable, according to the manuals and fired brass.

Ballistic Tips are the most accurate in several rifles, but GMXs work well and there's no lead in the meat. Recently, a batch of GMX bullets seemed a bit tough for medium-sized whitetails, and accuracy wasn't great in my new rifle, so I've switched back to the BTs for that rifle.

JP
 
140 Grain Accubond.

Keep moving it around until you find where it wants to live.

Save the other money You would have spent for freezer bags & a bigger freezer.

I'm the goofball that wrote the review on Midwayusa a few years ago about 25-250 yards, & not needing to search for anything shot with such a load.

The reason?

Because whatever you shot will be laying where it was shot, provided you do your part.
 
Nosler Accubond in the 130 or 140 grain. My .270 Win with a 130 Accubond and a heavy charge (won't post my data) of IMR 4831 is well under MOA and clocks 3019 fps from a 22" barrel. Penetrated over 2 feet of deer and recovered in the rear spine. Bullet weighed 104 grains and was a perfect mushroom shape.



Use the same weight Nosler Ballistic Tips for practice then just swap in the Accubonds for hunring.



See?

140s @ 2900+ a little caused our freezers to work more.
 
I haven't seen OP post for a while....

My 2 cents: only shooting out to 100 yards I would look at the 150gr SP BT for game. If I was to go out 400-600 I would drop the weight down depending upon the distance.

I shoot both .270 and 6.8SPC (same caliber just different casings and charges). The 270 has a lot more umph and can handle the heavier weights at medium distance but a 6.8spc 115 Spitzer can reach out to 500 yards to easily put down a deer.
 
I'm still here lol. It's a lot to take in and a lot of different combinations of bullet styles to use with my self imposed limit of 100 yrds would I need a tougher bullet like the accubond especially with a 130gr bullet or could I get away with something like a Hornady Interlock
 
You need plenty of inexpensive 130 grain bullets for off-hand practice on water-filled milk jugs at ranges of 50 to 200 yards. But you also need to experiment with components likely to perform well at long range and for ammo you might actually hunt with. As someone else mentioned, the 150 grain Sierra Game King is an excellent substitute for the Nosler Partition of the same weight, at half the cost. I have both. The Partition would be expected to be the better Heavy-Game bullet, but the Sierra would probably be better for Deer, and they load and shoot alike for me.
 
My 2 cents: only shooting out to 100 yards I would look at the 150gr SP BT for game. If I was to go out 400-600 I would drop the weight down depending upon the distance.

I shoot both .270 and 6.8SPC (same caliber just different casings and charges). The 270 has a lot more umph and can handle the heavier weights at medium distance but a 6.8spc 115 Spitzer can reach out to 500 yards to easily put down a deer.

One thing to keep in mind is that the longer heavier BT bullets begin to beat the shorter lighter ones past 450 meters or so for retained velocity and energy..... (were I to intend to shoot at animals past 500, I'd look to Berger VLD's.......) while at the same time being less explosive at spitting distances...... the 150SGK still makes like a bomb at close range..... it just does so after penetrating the chest wall....... I've shot bucks facing me at ranges of 50 yards to 30 feet, square in the chest and not had the bullet fragments get past the diaphram ..... I've also gutted deer shot in the front of the chest with these modern "controlled expansion bullets" and ...... it was a crappy experience, shall we say.......
 
You need plenty of inexpensive 130 grain bullets for off-hand practice on water-filled milk jugs at ranges of 50 to 200 yards. But you also need to experiment with components likely to perform well at long range and for ammo you might actually hunt with. As someone else mentioned, the 150 grain Sierra Game King is an excellent substitute for the Nosler Partition of the same weight, at half the cost. I have both. The Partition would be expected to be the better Heavy-Game bullet, but the Sierra would probably be better for Deer, and they load and shoot alike for me.

The 110gr Hornady V-max over 47gr of IMR4064 is my practice/prairie dog round ...... about 3K f/sec, mild recoil (I've shot 300+ in a single day, with mid-day break to reload the same 150+ cases so I could shoot them again .... and when the sun went down, I loaded them again, and shot them the next morning before going home ....... and burned up 2 bricks of 22lr on the trip, as well.....good times!) and generally cheaper than 130's..... turns milk jugs inside out!

As noted above, I'm not fan of Partitions for deer .... spendy, and not necessary- you can poke a hole in Bambi from one end to the other with a Hornady Interlock or Remmy's Cor-Lokt for 1/2 the price, if crappy field dressing is your thing ......

OTH, if you want to limit yourself to 100 yard shots, I suggest a reduced load with IMR4064 and a 130gr bullet (Speer's Hot cor worked for me, mostly because it was what I had on hand at the time.....) ..... loaded to 2600 f/sec or so...... kills 'em just as dead at short range without all the sturm and drang.......
 
I think I'm going to give the hot-cor and interlock a try in my rifle and see what it likes from what limited i know you don't need a 50 dollar box of bullets to kill deer. Jimbob86 would the IMR4064 work with those 2 bullets and do you know of a good reloading manual i can use to work up a load for those 2 bullets
 
I got the Speer 130 load from Speer's 13th ed.... not a bad manual overall.... their ballistic coefficients for their bullets are..... optimistic to the point of being ...... fantastic..... as in being based on fantasy.... but I learned a lot in studying that book ..... the Hornady bullet load was from my first loading manual, Lee's first edition.... not the best manual, but I wish I still had it.... lent it out to new reloaded much like yourself ..... he skipped town....
 
I've also used H335 as a substitute for the 4064 when the former was unavailable.... 46gr will get a 110gr V-Max to 3K.......
 
I use Game King, 130 grain with IMR 4350, 53.2 gr, neck die only. Get half inch groups at 100 yards from a stock Remington 700
 
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