Reloading help

Beware of others telling you what works for you. Good advice backs up what works for them with lot of details .

I too have a vibrating tumble, Thurber ? Works wonderfully. Looked into wet, just does not work for me. Have to sort that out. Nothing against wet, but a fair amount more fuss, handling multiple times and sorting out the pins not to mention a place to rinse and dispose of the residue. Drying racks from Walmert do work great to dry out the cases (another step though)

I would suggest two more reloaidng books. Bouyt have a lot of listed poweders and a wide range of bullet types that you can use as representative of other mfgs (staring out lower in the range not at max and then working up)

Hornady and Sierra. Hornady is new and newer powders, Sierras has a wide range of the standard powders when it cam out and a wide range of bullets for each group of bullet weights and types.


Electronic Scales: I love em. Just remember to know what your pan weight is and zero it if it drifts off.

Auto dispensers are really a treat, getting pretty low price, I got a Hornady for $155 (shipped) - also a Lyman Gen 6.

My backup is a Lyman larger scale with the built on trickler. I can spin that almost as fast as the auto dispensers. j

Again the key with the electronics is to know what your pan weight and check each time you pull it off that the weight reading (in a negative number) is withing a tenth of the pan weight.

If not zero it again with pan on it. It not a calibration thing but a drift thing.

Someday they drift a lot and other times nice and steady.
 
Here are the considerations between the collet and inertia pullers. The collet puller must have enough bullet shank to grasp onto. Generally works well with semi-wadcutter shaped handgun bullets but not so well with round nose types. Works well with most rifle bullets but can mar the bullets. Since the inertia type does not grasp the bullet, works equally well with all shaped handgun and rifle bullets. If the collet puller works with a particular bullet, it is faster if a large quantity of bullets need to be pulled. For just a very few, the inertia puller requires no setup and is more convenient. Best to have both. Note that the collet puller requires a collet for each bullet diameter.
 
"...I'll look into the inertia puller..." A puller isn't 100% necessary. Handy though. As a smithy you have the absolute ideal thing to whack it on too. Your anvil. Second best is a melon sized igneous rock with one flattish side.
The inertia puller is faster to use and doesn't damage the bullet.
Oh and read the book first.
 
The Lee Perfect Powder Measure is what I use and it is a decent product. Been using mine for about a year and a half with no complaints.
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Can you post some variation data for that? I would like to see how close it is to the +/-0.1 my Hornady throws....

Also, does it leak Ramshot enforcer....most leak it some....the balls are like 0.005" in diameter!
 
Can you post some variation data for that? I would like to see how close it is to the +/-0.1 my Hornady throws....

Also, does it leak Ramshot enforcer....most leak it some....the balls are like 0.005" in diameter!
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I only load pistol for target use. I don't go to incredible detail with weight. I use a mechanical scale and when it reads what I want, I use it. I may check it a couple more times during a load of 50 rounds.

Don't use Ramshot of any type but I noticed AA#2 and AA#5 would leave particles (tiny little particles) of powder on my bench. Just today I disassembled my LEE perfect powder measure.

I took the parts that interface (and where I suspected the leak came from) and I used some automobile scratch-remover (toothpaste woulda worked, too) and I polished the surfaces with a rag.

I then loaded 50 rounds of .380acp with AA#5 and had negligible leakage. I was happy with my 20 minutes or so of polishing.
 
There's lots of really good advice on this forum and a lot of REALLY good reloaders with lots of good experience. Note: I am not one of them. I learned one way to do it and never much looked at any other way to do things.

If you've got somebody that reloads to show you how they do it take advantage of it. I did it from books and trial and error and that is NOT the smart way to do it. If any stores in your area offer reloading demonstrations take advantage of them. Cabela's had one in my area and it was fun to go see it. The videos from the reloading manufacturers are good and some (some) of the Youtube videos are good too but reloading is one of those things where NOTHING beats hands on experience.

Disclaimer: I've never used a turret press.
I did most of my reloading on a single stage press until a progressive was kind of dumped on me. I really like my progressive press but now that I see all the stuff available in the reloading world I suspect if I would have got a turret press first my reloading life would have been much easier and I never would have got a progressive press at all.

P.S. To demonstrate my reloading expertise level I'll leave you with this: for many, many years when after I started reloading (pistol cartridges only) I used a rag and lighter fluid to clean my brass. When I finally got a vibrator type cleaner with corn cob media it was like a revelation to me. (Again, this is NOT a smart way to learn about reloading and since you are already on this site you can safely assume you've managed to avoid most of my bad/silly mistakes.)
 
Don't let a single stage press alarm you , truth is you can reload a lot of ammo with one and no matter if you proceed to an automatic loading machine that drops out a loaded round with every pull of the handle, you will always need a single stage press on hand to do little odd reloading jobs. The more automated the press the less you want to change the setting just to seat 5 or 10 bullets to try out.
The Hornady kit is a good one . Hornady makes quality tools and their reloading manual is one of my favorites. Seems to me to be pretty complete a good value .
Hornady also has excellent customer service if you need them.
With the turret press I have (Lyman All-Americian) it does not self index, so you have to turn the head by hand or use it to batch load ,just like a single stage, then move the head to the next station. You can leave the dies adjusted in it but it's really no faster than a single stage loading.
It really doesn't matter what you start with , get in there and get your feet wet. After learning the ropes you will see if you need to upgrade .
I started in 1967 with a Lee Classic Loader (the Whack-A-Mole Tool ) I loaded some excellent 38 special ammo with it , went to a single stage, tried a turret....98% of my loading is with single stage presses.
As you get experience, you will evolve....every brand name tool can be used to load good ammo...it's not so much the tool as the reloader using the tool ....trust me on this.
Gary
 
If I was reloading a lot of pistol I would consider the turret

If I was doing 223 and small cases I might do that.

Larger cases I am still single press. To this point I feel I can control the quality better single stage. I don't know any target shooters use turrets?
 
Im heading to a friends house this week and im going to check out his stuff. I intend to have my new building set up soon. I bought a 40x60 general steel building for a new shop. My pad is finished, and im waiting for the guys to come out and set it up.
 
All great advice so far. I would make two small tweaks: skip the Lee hand primer and the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I used both for a couple years, and while they work, if I had to start over, I would've spent a bit more money and gotten better versions of both.

Why, you ask? Okay, here goes. The Lee Hand Primer is okay, as I said, it works. it is clunky, and requires shell-holders for each caliber you intend to re-prime. Not a big deal, but for a few extra dollars you can get something like a RCBS Universal Hand Primer, which does not require shell-holders, and is just a better made, smoother working machine. I'm not saying you should get exactly that tool though; just a better one than the Lee.

The Lee PPM also works. In fact, I still have one, and was using it up until just a few months ago. But I upgraded to a RCBS because it leaks less, is proving to be more consistent over time, and holds more powder, and since it's mostly metal instead of plastic, it should end up being much more durable. Again, I'm not saying you should get an RCBS, but look into your options besides the LEE PPM. In the long run you'll probably have less issues and be happier.

Basically what I'm saying is things made of plastic and cheap pot metal on your reloading bench aren't likely to be your best choices a few years from now.
 
Good to see in person someone elses setup and how it feels for you.

Get a general reloading book (ABCs of Reloading is a good one) and get familiar with all this stuff we are talking about. It can get a bit deep.

What is ideal for one person, does not always suit the other or it might mesh right in.

Me, I would start with a good quality single stage press.

If I had to do it over I would go with the one that you can slip the dies in and out of not screw in. Costly but a nice setup.

Money an object then an RCBS heavy or other heavy press just fine. I had a light one and no regrets (ot does to the rang with me for COAL adjustments) but I use the ROck Chucker (and have a spare and if I can figure out a place to put it will use it to)

If possible go with the best stuff, if you keep at it you will just get it latter anyway.

Take a look at the Gerard Tri Trimmer (if you are gong to load rifle) - some things just can't be better done and for a trimmer that is it (I know there are other views, I just don't get them and I do try to be open minded)

I now have two auto powder dispensers (man can I reload 50 in a short time).

Digital (comes with auto dispenser of course) you have to watch the negative weight when you take the pan off. More than .1 or .2 drift, zero it again. If you do that, they are sweet. They all drift some.

I have a Lyman separate one that I use for general weighing work, cheap one is fine, its also my backup if the auto went down (with two not likely) - love digital, used right they are a wonder.

Beams Scales are a thing of the past. If you like them not a downer or anything, but digital are so much more accurate and versatile. I am 60+ and it was like, yes, yes yes, I have been saved from a life of misery.
 
RC20 said:
Good to see in person someone elses setup and how it feels for you.

Get a general reloading book (ABCs of Reloading is a good one) and get familiar with all this stuff we are talking about. It can get a bit deep.

What is ideal for one person, does not always suit the other or it might mesh right in.

Me, I would start with a good quality single stage press.

If I had to do it over I would go with the one that you can slip the dies in and out of not screw in. Costly but a nice setup.

Money an object then an RCBS heavy or other heavy press just fine. I had a light one and no regrets (ot does to the rang with me for COAL adjustments) but I use the ROck Chucker (and have a spare and if I can figure out a place to put it will use it to)

If possible go with the best stuff, if you keep at it you will just get it latter anyway.

Take a look at the Gerard Tri Trimmer (if you are gong to load rifle) - some things just can't be better done and for a trimmer that is it (I know there are other views, I just don't get them and I do try to be open minded)

I now have two auto powder dispensers (man can I reload 50 in a short time).

Digital (comes with auto dispenser of course) you have to watch the negative weight when you take the pan off. More than .1 or .2 drift, zero it again. If you do that, they are sweet. They all drift some.

I have a Lyman separate one that I use for general weighing work, cheap one is fine, its also my backup if the auto went down (with two not likely) - love digital, used right they are a wonder.

Beams Scales are a thing of the past. If you like them not a downer or anything, but digital are so much more accurate and versatile. I am 60+ and it was like, yes, yes yes, I have been saved from a life of misery.
Click to expand...


I will give those a look for sure. When it comes to certain things, like tools, I am a buy once cry once kind of guy. Cheap Harbor freight stuff just do not stand up to my work. So, I dont mind dropping a bit of cash for quality, but the Commander in Chief has set a budget lolol
 
Rangerrich99 said:
All great advice so far. I would make two small tweaks: skip the Lee hand primer and the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I used both for a couple years, and while they work, if I had to start over, I would've spent a bit more money and gotten better versions of both.

Why, you ask? Okay, here goes. The Lee Hand Primer is okay, as I said, it works. it is clunky, and requires shell-holders for each caliber you intend to re-prime. Not a big deal, but for a few extra dollars you can get something like a RCBS Universal Hand Primer, which does not require shell-holders, and is just a better made, smoother working machine. I'm not saying you should get exactly that tool though; just a better one than the Lee.

The Lee PPM also works. In fact, I still have one, and was using it up until just a few months ago. But I upgraded to a RCBS because it leaks less, is proving to be more consistent over time, and holds more powder, and since it's mostly metal instead of plastic, it should end up being much more durable. Again, I'm not saying you should get an RCBS, but look into your options besides the LEE PPM. In the long run you'll probably have less issues and be happier.

Basically what I'm saying is things made of plastic and cheap pot metal on your reloading bench aren't likely to be your best choices a few years from now.
Click to expand...


I will check into those as well. Plastic and pot metal certainly are the cheapest route, but quality isnt always cheap.
 
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