Reloading 450 Bushmaster

I've generally always felt it was better to do it right the first time, than to do it over, or use some special tool to fix what you shouldn't have screwed up in the first place.

I would like to see a picture or three of the "bulge" the OP is concerned about.

Sometimes, everything can be "right" and you still see a bulge, but unless it creates an issue chambering or firing, its just cosmetic.

The sizer die squeezes the case down to slightly below min specs for the cartridge. Sometimes, its more than "slightly", and this can result in a visible bulge when you seat the bullet.

Long ago I got a set of Lee .357 dies. They worked, ok, but the sizer die was so "tight" that there was a visible "step" where the die stopped just before the solid head of the case. And those "over-resized" cases usually had another visible step, where the expander stem stopped. Which often was more pronounced after the bullet was seated.

It didn't affect the shooting in any way, but to me, it looked fugly, and I felt the brass was being overworked. My Lyman dies didn't do that, my RCBS dies didn't do that, that Lee sizer got tossed into a box, and I haven't seen it in decades. I do use the seater die from that set, though. I use it for those rare times when I load RN lead bullets. Its simpler and easier to swap out the already set up die than to change the seating stem and adjust it.

Either the OP is getting bulges because he's not seating his bullets correctly, or possibly he's seeing a bulge because the case is sized in a "tight" die. A picture would be an enormous help to understand what he's seeing.
 
Unclenick and 44AMP have most of the bases covered.

My only add is that LilGun is hot (burn temp) spikey (in the pressure curve) unforgiving and clumpy. It's had it's issues with Magnum revolver cartridges. Good for high pressure shotgun (which is below Magnum Revolver pressures) load in the 20g on down and some 300BO and some other mild calibers. My personal opinion, having used a lot of it, is that is is not well suited to the higher pressure cartridges in Revolver and Centerfire rifle, like over 32 KPSI.

You might be better off with a different powder for the .450BM. Accurate 1680, 4100, 11FS, H110, W296 provided better results, more consistency and better groups for me. Realize the the 38,500 psi was due to Bushmaster making changes to the 450 Professional to use a Carbine length gas system. Tim was not exactly enthused about it, but it is what it is.
 
...always felt it was better to do it right the first time,
than to do it over, or use some special tool to fix what
you shouldn't have screwed up in the first place.
`Can't ever argue w/ that.;)

Sure would like to see on OP/pic.
 
Rod311; there is a lot of reloading for beginners information out there, one thing to learn first is; don't be in a hurry to get a "hot" load, start with minimum powder charges and work your way up in small steps, watching for signs of "high pressure". at first sign of pressure STOP. back down to the next lower charge weight, that will be the "max load" for your combination of cartridge bullet gun powder primer...

some of the signs will be slight flattening of the primer cup after firing. cratering of the firing pin into the primmer. "should be a dimple not a crater". flattening of the head stamp lettering on the case heads. heavy extraction. "fired shells should extract easily, with simi-autos you will notice eratic ejection as a sign the shell is starting to become sticky in the chamber".

start low and work up.


this is not exhostive by any means.
 
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