reloading 357 mag ?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
I would not recommend plated bullets for new reloaders. I see many, many questions on forums about "what load do I use?" and "how do I crimp my plated bullets?". Perhaps because of too little easily found info on plated reloading. For a brand new reloader I'd suggest K.I.S.S.; start with jacketed bullets until you get the hang of general reloading. And, find a load (bullet, powder, primer) in your reloading manual(s) before you buy any components. Many fewer headaches, confusion that way...
Go slow. Double check everything. And most important, have fun...
BTW, I like 2400 and Universal for my .357 loads (I've tried everything fom Bullseye to W296, but settled on those two mostly)
Go slow. Double check everything. And most important, have fun...
BTW, I like 2400 and Universal for my .357 loads (I've tried everything fom Bullseye to W296, but settled on those two mostly)
This is excellent advice.
Some days (from what I read on the forums) it seems almost no one bothers to do any research anymore, and some folks don't even have reloading manuals... they just buy something, and then get on the net and ask "how do I do this" or (most often) "I need a load for...."
I've been using 2400 in the .357, exclusively, for several decades. I operate a little differently than many, for me Magnum brass is for magnum loads. (in .357) If I want something less than magnum loads, I use .38 Special brass (which I have a lot of, as well), and other powders.
From my manuals I have read any where from 11.0 to 14.5 with 2400 powder. The loads vary in different manuals that I have. I started reloading and shooting in the early 70's with about a 20 year off period while I drove semi's over the road. With my model 19 I loaded 98 % 38's. Now I want to load some 357 magnum rounds for it.
When you look at the max loads listed in the manuals, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.
First is that the max loads they list are NOT the safety limits of the gun (applies to all their data) but the max working load in the gun they tested.
Second, different guns have different practical limits. The Model 19 is a fine gun, I had one for many years. However it's not quite the same as an N-frame or a Ruger new model Blackhawk. I have personally experienced a load near/at the top end of published data that functioned normally in a Model 28, but required fired cases to be driven out of a Model 19's cylinder with a small hammer.
When you get to working up heavy loads for your 19, go slowly, with only small changes as you approach the listed top end. If you get to the point where cases are sticking in the chambers, STOP. No matter what the book says is max, if cases stick, stop there, and back off a bit (so cases don't stick in the chambers). THAT is YOUR max working load, for YOUR gun and that ammo combination.
This advice applies to ALL revolvers (and all guns in general as well) when you start getting sticky extraction, you are at the working limit. Each individual gun & ammo combination can be different as to exactly where that point is.
First is that the max loads they list are NOT the safety limits of the gun (applies to all their data) but the max working load in the gun they tested.
Second, different guns have different practical limits. The Model 19 is a fine gun, I had one for many years. However it's not quite the same as an N-frame or a Ruger new model Blackhawk. I have personally experienced a load near/at the top end of published data that functioned normally in a Model 28, but required fired cases to be driven out of a Model 19's cylinder with a small hammer.
When you get to working up heavy loads for your 19, go slowly, with only small changes as you approach the listed top end. If you get to the point where cases are sticking in the chambers, STOP. No matter what the book says is max, if cases stick, stop there, and back off a bit (so cases don't stick in the chambers). THAT is YOUR max working load, for YOUR gun and that ammo combination.
This advice applies to ALL revolvers (and all guns in general as well) when you start getting sticky extraction, you are at the working limit. Each individual gun & ammo combination can be different as to exactly where that point is.
PolarFBear
New member
44AMP?
I appreciate your "cautions". Curious, now the question why do guns have different "working" limits? I am not looking to push ANY limits and generally load to a minimum or just above. No need stressing anything as I only hunt "paper". But what are the factors that limit "working" limits? What makes a Model 19 get "sticky" at one level and another firearm like a Ruger Blackhawk "work" at a much higher powder level? Both are quality firearms made with care.
I appreciate your "cautions". Curious, now the question why do guns have different "working" limits? I am not looking to push ANY limits and generally load to a minimum or just above. No need stressing anything as I only hunt "paper". But what are the factors that limit "working" limits? What makes a Model 19 get "sticky" at one level and another firearm like a Ruger Blackhawk "work" at a much higher powder level? Both are quality firearms made with care.
First off, when I say "working limit" what I'm talking about is the "hottest" load level BEFORE pressure signs appear.
Because everything made has a range of tolerances that are acceptable, and how these react in combination give us the result. When the stars line up one way, we get one result. When it's a different way, then there's a different result.
Minute differences can add up to make a noticeably different result. Usually they don't, but sometimes, they do. All the factors in the design and construction of both the gun and the ammunition, AND their relationship with each other are the reason one gun and ammo combination will show some pressure sign, and a different gun with the same ammo may not.
A revolver with a rough chamber will give sticky extraction at a lower pressure than one with a properly polished chamber. This is an example of the quality of a gun's manufacture imposing a "limit" different between two different guns.
A gun with thinner chamber walls will "give" more under pressure than one with thicker walls which support the case better. This is an example of the gun's design imposing a limit.
simply that they are different designs, AND different individual guns. There is a level that will stick cases in a Ruger, there is a level that will do it in everything. What that level is, exactly, can be different from gun to gun. Most of the time it is so close to the same we don't see it, or we see only a small variation. Chronograph the same load from more than one gun (same barrel length), and see if you get exactly the same fps from all of them. You won't. You'll get a range of results.
In a really poor analogy (but the only thing I can think of at the moment), you know how the microwave directions on some foods say X min on high, but then also say how microwaves vary and you may have to adjust the heating time? Guns are KIND of like that. They vary.
Because everything made has a range of tolerances that are acceptable, and how these react in combination give us the result. When the stars line up one way, we get one result. When it's a different way, then there's a different result.
Minute differences can add up to make a noticeably different result. Usually they don't, but sometimes, they do. All the factors in the design and construction of both the gun and the ammunition, AND their relationship with each other are the reason one gun and ammo combination will show some pressure sign, and a different gun with the same ammo may not.
A revolver with a rough chamber will give sticky extraction at a lower pressure than one with a properly polished chamber. This is an example of the quality of a gun's manufacture imposing a "limit" different between two different guns.
A gun with thinner chamber walls will "give" more under pressure than one with thicker walls which support the case better. This is an example of the gun's design imposing a limit.
simply that they are different designs, AND different individual guns. There is a level that will stick cases in a Ruger, there is a level that will do it in everything. What that level is, exactly, can be different from gun to gun. Most of the time it is so close to the same we don't see it, or we see only a small variation. Chronograph the same load from more than one gun (same barrel length), and see if you get exactly the same fps from all of them. You won't. You'll get a range of results.
In a really poor analogy (but the only thing I can think of at the moment), you know how the microwave directions on some foods say X min on high, but then also say how microwaves vary and you may have to adjust the heating time? Guns are KIND of like that. They vary.
Thomas Traddles
Inactive
I like Blue Dot powder for .357 and some .38 special (200 grain lrn) loads.
In .357 I have been using 9 grains Blue Dot under a 158 gr cast lead RNFP and a 158 gr cast lead lswc. These are very accurate loads when shot from my .357 snubbie. They are running in the 900+fps range. The recoil of these loads are quite manageable in the snub and I have determined that this load is the max I want to shoot from it. When I bump the load up to 9.5 grains of Blue Dot, the recoil becomes more than I like to handle. I save the 9.5 gr Blue Dot loads for my Ruger Black Hawk.
I load 5.3 gr of Blue Dot under a 200 gr cast lead RN bullet (lyman 358430) for use in my .38 special. This reportedly clocks at @870 fps in a 4 in barrel. I carry it in a snubbie. It shoots POA. The recoil in my Black Hawk is negligible, and it hits targets accurately and with authority. I'd like to get a hold of some 2400 because it will get that bullet running faster than the Blue Dot can, but I have not seen any 2400 now for going on 2 years.
In .357 I have been using 9 grains Blue Dot under a 158 gr cast lead RNFP and a 158 gr cast lead lswc. These are very accurate loads when shot from my .357 snubbie. They are running in the 900+fps range. The recoil of these loads are quite manageable in the snub and I have determined that this load is the max I want to shoot from it. When I bump the load up to 9.5 grains of Blue Dot, the recoil becomes more than I like to handle. I save the 9.5 gr Blue Dot loads for my Ruger Black Hawk.
I load 5.3 gr of Blue Dot under a 200 gr cast lead RN bullet (lyman 358430) for use in my .38 special. This reportedly clocks at @870 fps in a 4 in barrel. I carry it in a snubbie. It shoots POA. The recoil in my Black Hawk is negligible, and it hits targets accurately and with authority. I'd like to get a hold of some 2400 because it will get that bullet running faster than the Blue Dot can, but I have not seen any 2400 now for going on 2 years.
You really need Alliant's website or a good magazine article to use BE-86, which is newer than many manuals. I enjoy 7.5 gr with 158 LSWC, but I believe I would start at 7.0 for 158 JHP.
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=38&cartridge=28
edit: BE-86 is a good load, but when I saw BE, actually Bullseye, I had BE-86 on my brain.
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happie2shoot
Inactive
sticky extraction
Usually means your chambers need polished,
it's not a hard job.
Usually means your chambers need polished,
it's not a hard job.
Mike Irwin
Staff
9.2 grains of AA No. 7 for about 1,000-1,100 fps.
15.5 grains of WW 296 for about 1,500 fps.
6.5 grains of WW 231 for about 1,200 fps.
15.5 grains of WW 296 for about 1,500 fps.
6.5 grains of WW 231 for about 1,200 fps.