Hello Doc.
Last time I did a rather lengthy post, you were the one who followed it and complimented me for it. Since I believe you are more than serious about your reloading quest, I thought I might do something a little more tailored to your question, especially since I know you will read it. What I will try to do here is give you an insite to one reloaders long term experiance and tribulations to see if you can relate or not. The prologue, background information goes like this: I never had a mentor nor did I know anyone to ask (way before internet days). Got some books to read and picked up a single stage press in a garage sale (no dies or anything else). Bought a set of dies for 38 spl/357 magnum and decided to give it a go. (circa 1984) Three die set, resize/decap die, seating die, and separate crimping die. Good purchase that as I am still using that die set. For those who have said a single stage will teach you how to adjust dies, this much is true. Changing from 38 spl to 357 means 2.3 turns (standard die thread) up for bullet seating and crimp dies, assuming same bullet for both caliber loadings. 1st major problem for me: I got so tired of constantly changing the die settings that I just walked away after a month or so and my reloading efforts languished for about a year.
Reloaders Progress
In 1985 I saw an ad in one of the gun rags about the then fairly new Dillon 550. It looked to be a solution to the die adjustment problem. I had no real interest in a progressive reloader since I believe too many operations going on at a time increases the probability of errors. However, I questioned the Dillon folks about the use of their machine in a non-progressive mode and their response convinced me it would be like 4 single stages together, adjust dies once and be done. I gave up my planned purchase of a new gun, and dumped the investment on the Dillon 550. For those who point out the excessive progressive press prices, I paid over $500 for the 550 before many of the bells and whistles were added, making it an RL and later the RL550B. And this in 1985.
I still use the 550 but with many problem/changes over the years. So lets go over those, not necessarily in chronological order but in the reloading order.
1. Primers: Get this right. I do not allow a primed case to go forward unless the primer is recessed. Period. With the Dillon, and I suspect with all other progressive presses, high primers are going to happen if used as intended. Using the Dillon, I used to fool myself into believing I could feel the primer seat. But since I check every primer before going forward, over the years I developed a technique that would work, sorta. I would prime per instructions, then turn the case about 180 degrees and carefully move the prime rod against the seated primer and reapply priming force. With more years, I have to turn the case a third time, then a fourth time to get an acceptably recessed primer. Yes, I discovered two things. I did not know what a primer pocket reamer was for nor how it would help. During that learning process I discovered primer pocket cleaners are worthless, while the reamer will actually restore the pocket dimensions (depth) which does change over time. Also I discovered over time that the Dillon priming mechanism gradually wears down a small bit with no way to restore the original reach short of replacing the actual priming components. When do you start to notice these things. In 1987 I sent a nice letter to CCI with 54 empty brick boxes (1000 primers) bragging to them that I had gone that far without a missfire of their primers. That was about the time I started having to multiple seat primers to get them recessed. Sure, I could replace all the priming components on the Dillon, as I had ordered the parts long ago, but I prefer a more permanent solution. A new look at hand primers. With the old garage sale single stage, I had started priming using an old Lee hand prime, but I would have occasional high primers there as well and reseating them was the eventual cause that broke the handle, so my first experiance was not good. Long story short, these days I use the Sinclair Priming tool. Properly adjusted (which is somewhat involved) this thing makes a perfect prime every time, real feel, and if it ever starts to wear down, The adjustment technique also compensates for wear. If you ever break the handle, its because you already broke every bone in your hand first.
Whats not to like ?
2. Powder:
Well Doc you got me started. If this is useful to you, I will pick up in a later post with No. 2 Powder, otherwise this post gets too long. I am heading to a recommendation for you that includes over 30 years of reloading hassels and solutions, what you will actually use (need) and what not to waste money on. But again my opinion only as a recreational shooter only.
Last time I did a rather lengthy post, you were the one who followed it and complimented me for it. Since I believe you are more than serious about your reloading quest, I thought I might do something a little more tailored to your question, especially since I know you will read it. What I will try to do here is give you an insite to one reloaders long term experiance and tribulations to see if you can relate or not. The prologue, background information goes like this: I never had a mentor nor did I know anyone to ask (way before internet days). Got some books to read and picked up a single stage press in a garage sale (no dies or anything else). Bought a set of dies for 38 spl/357 magnum and decided to give it a go. (circa 1984) Three die set, resize/decap die, seating die, and separate crimping die. Good purchase that as I am still using that die set. For those who have said a single stage will teach you how to adjust dies, this much is true. Changing from 38 spl to 357 means 2.3 turns (standard die thread) up for bullet seating and crimp dies, assuming same bullet for both caliber loadings. 1st major problem for me: I got so tired of constantly changing the die settings that I just walked away after a month or so and my reloading efforts languished for about a year.
Reloaders Progress
In 1985 I saw an ad in one of the gun rags about the then fairly new Dillon 550. It looked to be a solution to the die adjustment problem. I had no real interest in a progressive reloader since I believe too many operations going on at a time increases the probability of errors. However, I questioned the Dillon folks about the use of their machine in a non-progressive mode and their response convinced me it would be like 4 single stages together, adjust dies once and be done. I gave up my planned purchase of a new gun, and dumped the investment on the Dillon 550. For those who point out the excessive progressive press prices, I paid over $500 for the 550 before many of the bells and whistles were added, making it an RL and later the RL550B. And this in 1985.
I still use the 550 but with many problem/changes over the years. So lets go over those, not necessarily in chronological order but in the reloading order.
1. Primers: Get this right. I do not allow a primed case to go forward unless the primer is recessed. Period. With the Dillon, and I suspect with all other progressive presses, high primers are going to happen if used as intended. Using the Dillon, I used to fool myself into believing I could feel the primer seat. But since I check every primer before going forward, over the years I developed a technique that would work, sorta. I would prime per instructions, then turn the case about 180 degrees and carefully move the prime rod against the seated primer and reapply priming force. With more years, I have to turn the case a third time, then a fourth time to get an acceptably recessed primer. Yes, I discovered two things. I did not know what a primer pocket reamer was for nor how it would help. During that learning process I discovered primer pocket cleaners are worthless, while the reamer will actually restore the pocket dimensions (depth) which does change over time. Also I discovered over time that the Dillon priming mechanism gradually wears down a small bit with no way to restore the original reach short of replacing the actual priming components. When do you start to notice these things. In 1987 I sent a nice letter to CCI with 54 empty brick boxes (1000 primers) bragging to them that I had gone that far without a missfire of their primers. That was about the time I started having to multiple seat primers to get them recessed. Sure, I could replace all the priming components on the Dillon, as I had ordered the parts long ago, but I prefer a more permanent solution. A new look at hand primers. With the old garage sale single stage, I had started priming using an old Lee hand prime, but I would have occasional high primers there as well and reseating them was the eventual cause that broke the handle, so my first experiance was not good. Long story short, these days I use the Sinclair Priming tool. Properly adjusted (which is somewhat involved) this thing makes a perfect prime every time, real feel, and if it ever starts to wear down, The adjustment technique also compensates for wear. If you ever break the handle, its because you already broke every bone in your hand first.
Whats not to like ?
2. Powder:
Well Doc you got me started. If this is useful to you, I will pick up in a later post with No. 2 Powder, otherwise this post gets too long. I am heading to a recommendation for you that includes over 30 years of reloading hassels and solutions, what you will actually use (need) and what not to waste money on. But again my opinion only as a recreational shooter only.