reloading 101 for beginners

I'm told that 38 and 357 ammo is the easiest to reload. I have no idea wether this is true. If this question has been asked a million times, I apologize.

As a 100% total novice what would be the basic equipment would I need to make my own 38 sp. and 357 mag ammo plus the approximate cost for the startup equipment?

Everyone is welcome to advise and explain what you think is the easiest and safest way to "roll my own".
 
Your budget would help a great deal . That way i and others can give you a better idea . I say this because with the bare minimum of equipment you can get started under $100 no problem if you start with a caliber specific set up . On the other hand if 38/357 is just the first you plan to load and other calibers including rifle are in the future . You may want to spend a little more and get a more well rounded set up .

Bare minimum and caliber specific
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/459280/lee-classic-loader-38-special
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/702138/lee-classic-loader-357-magnum

A little more well rounded set up you can grow with
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121744/lee-challenger-breech-lock-single-stage-press-kit

Now those are the lower end set ups but work quite well . There are better more expensive kits that will last two life times .

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/749997/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit

As you can see it depends on what you plan to do and your budget . I strongly recommend you buy for the future if it's very likely you will load more calibers later .
 
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Just a very quick reply to begin with. If you do not have any equipment catalogs, first thing in the morning call MidwayUSA at 800-243-3220 and request their catalog. Midway is one of the major suppliers of reloading equipment. You will no doubt be getting numerous replies to your query, some recommending specific tools, and a catalog should be a must for a better understanding of the recommended tools and for follow up ordering of tools that you might want. If you think you might want a Dillon progressive press or their other tools, call Dillon at 800-762-3845 and request a Blue Press equipment catalog. Other progressive presses will be shown in the MidwayUSA catalog.

Much will depend on the amount of money you are willing to part with as well as future expansions for loading additional calibers. Selecting initial equipment is not an easy task and confusion may rein for a while.
 
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Decisions despend on whether you want to load rifle ammo, too. Tchniques are quite different from those for pistols. I reload 32acp, 32 Fed Mag, 9mm, 38 spec, 45acp, 30-06. I would say the most difficult of all is the 32acp because it is so small. 32 Fed Mag suffers from lack of finding loading data. I like reloading for the 38 spec best.
wiollr
 
How many calibers do you shoot and how much do you shoot per month?

The safest way to start would be to get a reloading manual or 2 and check out the ABC's of reloading to help you understand the processes and how all the equipment is used.
 
It might be best to start with a kit rather than by purchasing individual items. To get you thinking refer to post #2 and select link 4 on the list. Consider the Hornady and RCBS kits, everything to get started except reloading dies and both kits within similar price range. I would be more inclined towards the RCBS kit. These are single stage presses of course and will suffice well for handgun and rifle reloading. Reloading dies and shell holders for the calibers are sold separately. Note that .38 and .357 can use the same die set and shell holder, requiring some adjustment between each. Cost for RCBS carbide three die set is around $50 and shell holder around $8.

Late addition:
Also note that the hand primer tools require a separate shell holder to be ordered separately that is the same as the press shell holder.
 
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Do more research on this forum

As someone new to reloading, I realize you probably have not spent much time monitoring this forum, but the questions you ask have been discussed SOOOOO many times on here that many of us are tired of typing in the same old answers. Please do some simple searches and reading.

As to your initial thoughts on easiest caliber, it is generally true. .38 Spl is one of the easiest to load for several reasons - the case is large and easy to handle, it is a very old caliber that operates at low pressure, so less risk than many others, and there are no special quirks to worry about such as tapered cases or slight bottlenecks. And since almost all .38 Spl are shot in revolvers, you have zero issues with feeding or specific overall length of the loaded round.

Because of the age and popularity, there are huge amounts of data and component options available for reloading; therefore, much easier for a beginner to find all the stuff needed to start. For example, I may have 20 different powders and as many different bullets types sitting on my shelf that can be used for lots of different combinations in .38 Spl. If I find a new bullet type I want to try, I am sure to already have other components that will work with it. As a new reloader, however, you probably will want to start with just one or two different powders and bullets, and the right combination will be easy to find at your local store.

Now back to your research - start with more reading on this forum as I and others have already said. In addition, go buy either the Lee Modern Reloading or any edition of the Lyman reloading manual (both are excellent options) and carefully read ALL of the text in the first half of the books before the caliber-specific reloading data. That will answer at least 85% of your initial questions, and it is the ONLY way you will begin to understand what you do not know that you do not know. Until you have read one of those manuals, do not believe ANYTHING you read on an internet forum - as far as you should be concerned without having any knowledge to evaluate what you see, we are all fools and idiots (and about 50% of the time that statement will be true!).
 
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As Dale said, read the basic equipment sticky. If there is any question it has failed to address, then post follow-up questions. This is simply the most efficient way to get the answers you need.

What Metal God did was direct you first to the least expensive equipment, about which there is no disagreement. But as the gear goes up in price, the variety of opinions about what is best go up in number. Metal God's recommendations are good ones. I will suggest that if you plan on getting into all-around loading after you've got your start, that perhaps an initial kit that uses a hand press would be a good choice, as after you later acquire a bench mounted press, you will then have the hand press to take to the range to experiment with test loads in situ. The hand press is just fine for 38/.357. It only gets less friendly resizing large rifle cases. By the time you move to large rifle cases a bench mounted press is much better (easier and faster).

As your needs are clarified, the answers will address them more specifically. I would say that, in the broadest sense, price goes up with the volume you need to produce per hour. Convenience generally also increases with volume equipment, though there are convenience threshold volumes with it. That is, the time it takes to do a caliber change on high volume equipment becomes an inconvenience when you only want to make a handful of test loads. Simpler is generally better for short runs. But this is also why even the equipment you start with remains useful after you've upgraded.
 
Doc, I'll tell you what I tell all newbie competition shooters who want to start reloading. After you get your press (I recommend a Dillon 550), and consumables (bullets, powder, primers and cases) I'll come over and have you up and running in 10 minutes. You won't have to go thru endless confusion of reading this and you tubing that and internet yada only to get more confused. There is no substitute for hands on experience. So find your nearest USPSA/IDPA/Steel Challenge/3 gun/ICORE match, head over there and ask the match director if one of the hosers would come by and get you set up. They will.
 
All of you guys actually give such great advice to the guy!

Unclenick and 9x45, bring up the best points IMO, Sometimes jumping into the progressive arena is a hindrance, Heck I have a XL650 that has sat unused for about 13yrs (left reloading for about 10). Why? i had to develop my loads again, and the Lee Classic Turret fit the bill for all my caliber changes. Once I get the best loads again, the XL650 will come into it's own again. I just hated to do caliber changes and readjustments on the Dillon

Okay, back to my point! I had a friend back when I started who guided me and answered all my questions. One day, he said screw this I'm coming over (now granted, this was before the internet was what it is today), in about an Hour he had me up and running and even brought some of his hand me downs for me to use. ie. calipers, and manuals (some where the old free reloading guides the powder companies would give)! It was a great time and all it cost me was a run down to the local Tommy's for some Chili Burgers for us!
 
There are prolly hundreds of threads on "what's best for a beginner". But perhaps my reply is a bit different than those above. I'd suggest you do some reading/research before you buy anything. The ABCs of Reloading is an excellent start. It will not only tell you how and why of reloading, but what equipment is needed. This will enable you to decide what is best for your reloading needs. Also, Lyman's 49th (or 50th by now) has an excellent "How To" section and most bullet manufacturers have good manuals with good "How To" sections (Hornady is very good).

I subscribe to K.I.S.S. and suggest a single stage for starters. Using one to learn on will allow you to learn how to do each step and why you do it. Also you'll be changing and adjusting dies with each step, which is a good thing. You'll learn a very important part of reloading; die adjustment (there are thousands of threads like "my reloads won't chamber" running in forums and the answer usually is "die adjustment"). Once die adjustment is learned it doesn't take much time...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
Reference posts numbers 2 and 7:
If you were to follow up with either the Hornady Lock N Load kit, link 5 in post #2, or the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, link 4 in post #2, and order from MidwayUSA, the following information will complete the order:

Hornady kit: Midway product #749997, priced $310,
also needs:
3 piece Hornady Nitride .38/.357 die set, Midway product #498432 , priced around $45
and
2 .38/.357 shell holders for press and hand primer tool, product #725493, priced around $5 each

RCBS kit: Midway ptoduct #937051, priced $280,
also needs
3 piece RCBS Carbide .38/.357 die set, Midway product #485205, priced around $50
and 2 shell holders for press and hand primer tool, product #278373 priced around $8 each

Die sets however are interchangeable.
Difference between the two kits:
1. Different hand priming tools, do not know which one might be preferable, and
2. Hornady comes with digital electronic powder scale, RCBS has balance beam scale, would recommend the RCBS scale.

If interested, probably best to place telephone order to Midway at 800-243-3220 rather than via internet and they will confirm what is being ordered and available for any questions.
 
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If you are someone who is really into shooting, reloading is a big part of the hobby. However, you should only get into it IF you are someone who has attention to detail, is careful, patient, and willing to invest in and follow reloading manuals. I love reloading and making loads exactly how I want to. It is not too hard to get up and running but there can be a pretty big learning curve to getting really good results. Some things that just aren't in the manuals, that's where it helps if you know someone who can help you.

I enjoy being at reloading bench just as much as shooting. When it comes to the money, I probably spend more now than I did before reloading but I shoot many times more than before.
 
Thanks for asking our advice. Welcome to reloading

Overkill777 (Post 14) first sentence is spot-on.


So much is a matter of personal taste. All advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

I put together an arbitrary list that I think is illuminating. I call them my Ten Advices.

When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but not it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

Advice #1 I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on data, yes, but I found it full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offereings in your local library. Dated, perhaps, but you can taste-test their writing style. Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)

The reason you want more than one or two is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of a reloading kit and know what parts you will use and what parts the kits lack.

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.


Load mid-range or slightly light at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that)

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for floor covering when you pick your reloading room. (Note: my worktable is portable, a folding workbench with two presses mounted on a board that I simply clamp into place. One press has a large primer feed, the other a small primer feed.)



Advice #2 Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy.

Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..

Advice #3 Learn on a single stage press or a turret press. Do not learn on a progressive press. Too many things happening at the same time are hard to keep track of.

Advice #4 Tungsten Carbide dies for your straight-walled cartridge cases. They do not require lubrication which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #5 Find a mentor. There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. There is nothing like a tutor, or better yet, a mentor. A longer mentoring period might have changed my reloading style, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. Then I educated myself after that.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #6 Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers

Advice #7 Don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Advice #8 Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I recommend.
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/view...fbd5ae1f754eec
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading which the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.

Advice #9 When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy cheap (too cheap) it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.

Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly.

Lost Sheep
 
Lost Sheep: ("who have gone astray", great lyrics from Whiffenpoof song)
Not saying that you have but reminded me of the song that I recall was first on the Hit Parade for 10 weeks. Well at any rate...

I like your 10 pieces of advice but what is this somewhat general tendency to discredit most of what you hear and read, especially as applies to the internet? Multitudes of good information there and from reliable sources other than just bullet and powder providers. Many new to reloading are often requesting specific load data as if there were a magic formula that would apply to all. I will usually only quote data from loading manuals and it seems that most forum members are also reluctant to furnish specific loading data of their own. However I do make an exception to requesting loading data for the '06 Garand since it is so common place and most everyone provides the same information.

But can you give any examples of unreliable or incorrect reloading information on the Internet since I assume that is what you are alluding to? So I guess I'm suggesting that advice #10 might be revised somewhat, but otherwise all good.

How did you come up with the moniker "Lost Sheep"?
 
When I first started reloading 20+ years ago, my first reloads were 38/357.

Your question brings back special memories for me.

As to the OPs question, yes, 38/357 is very easy to reload. It's a straight wall case and chambers easily. 9mm is popular to reload and it seems simple, but it's not because of the slight (almost unnoticable) taper. 38/357 is very beginner friendly.

38/357 will almost always chamber and pass the plunk test.
 
Doc (circa 1950):
Have you formed any thoughts as to which way you might be leaning towards equipment? It seems that not many specific recommendations have been forth coming as might be anticipated.
 
Here's the deal for me, I really don't like reloading, I don't like cleaning guns either, I only like the part where the shot timer goes off, and go to gripping and ripping.
 
I reload several calibers; .380, 9mm, 38spcl, 357 mag, 44mag, .223, .243, 30-30 and 30-06.

44 mag is by far the easiest but just due to the size of the shell, its easy to look into and ensure of a charge and not double charged.
 
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