Rechambering an Arisaka 38

[Clark]

I have got some Arisakas that were sporterized a long time ago, at pawn shops for $50, $60, $70.

They are in 300 Savage, with surplus 1903 Springfield barrels.
A few twists of the wrist with a 308 reamer, and they are a 308.

But I can handload either 300S or 308, and they are pretty much the same cartridge.

 

[Gunplummer]

Clark

Check the barrels on those t-99's, they may be original. I have seen t-99's at yard sales and auctions that had the barrel turned in about 1/2 inch and re-cut to .300 Savage. I still have one and at 100 yards it is really accurate with .308 diameter bullets. Has a feed problem with more than two bullets but I never cared enough to work it out. Had one in .308 WIN and also had the feed problem. If you did not take one to the range you should. The results might surprise you.

 

[Roscoe54]

VWFool, thanks for the info...

I appreciate your input. I gather you acquired a 38 with an intact mum that was already sporterized? I would have gone for a full restoration on that one most likely, only because the mums are rare and collectible, then sold it to a collector for enough bucks to buy an action that's better-suited to what I want. Mine has a missing mum but the bluing is around 85% and the bore is excellent, which is why I'm looking into other 6.5mm calibers.

As you mentioned, I already have other Swedes and want something else, though I'm a champion of this caliber (6.5x55 Swedes were used in Olympic competition through the 50's I'm told in Nordic skiing/shooting events and now it's all .22 rimfire). I've got a perfect stock M96, a perfect stock M38 Carbine, a pair of good Husqvarna actions and three Huskvarna-proofed in-the-white fully-threaded factory barrels that achieve match headspacing without any metal removal (1/16-turn past the index mark). Also an un-issued 1955 AG-42B Ljungman semi-auto. I have Timney triggers and some other after-market goodies on hand for the Swedes and the Arisaka, all I have to decide on is rechambering or rebarreling. I just don't need to build an Arisaka Swede (with different receiver and wood) when I already own accurate 6.5mm's from SWEDEN that I'd like to sell, 3 or 4 of 'em.

The whole point of this project is a long range tack driller with minimal expense based on the massively-overbuilt Arisaka 38 action...unlike small ring Mauser actions the Arisaka has been chambered for 458 Magnum successfully and no one has succeeded in blowing up the receiver no matter how hard they tried (there's lottsa stuff on the web about the strength of this action).

In my immediate future I can stay busy building a pair of match-quality Swedes with original receivers/barrels and after-market triggers, bolt shrouds, springs, stocks etc. with parts I've picked up over 15 years. I'll likely lay the Arisaka aside for the time being, hopefully I'll trip over parts for modification or trade as time goes by.

I like hearing from someone with hands-on experience rather than theoretical rattling...Thanks for the contribution, I'll look at your caliber suggestions!

 

[wachtelhund1]

This last fall I picked up a real nice sportized T-38. I wasn't happy with the grouping so I had it rebarreled and chambered in 6.5X57 Mauser, a German sporting cartridge, almost Identical to the 6.5X55. I already had another gun in that caliber and dies. I purchased the reamer and go gage, $130.00. I used a Midway Adams & Bennett barrel $90.00; and had my local gunsmith turn, thread and chamber the barrel - $75.00. You'll probably cringe at the though of an A&B barrel, but I wanted this just for a shooter and deer hunting. I have built two F class rifles in the last two years with Kriegger barrels. So I wanted to try to an A&B barrel. I followed the barrel break in procedure and it shoots under 1" groups. I'm happy! I cold blued the barrel for the time being. Later this spring I plan to doing slow rust blueing process. I'm also going to checker the stock. Here are two pictures of it.

 

[vwfool]

Roscoe54

You are very welcome. I was just excited to see someone talking about an sporterized Arisaka project. By no means do I think all old military rifles should be cut up and sporterized; however, I also don't think someone will burn in hell for doing it.

The only reason I did it to one with an intact mum was because it has a ton of sentimental value to me being the first gun my dad ever gave me, and after his death I really wanted to finish what he started over 50 years ago. Like I said I did reserve myself enough to not modify the action. The mum is still perfect and very clearly stamped. The bolt handle still sticks strait out and is not bent, nor has the bolt face been cut. I picked the scout scope mount so i could use a scope without bending the bolt handle and so none of the mum would be blocked from view by the scope.

I will try to post a pic of mine later today. It isn't the most beautiful rifle, mainly because of the stock, but i wouldn't take anything for it. I just need to figure out how or what I want to do with the stock. Anyway, have fun with the projects!

 

[Clark]

Gunplummer
Clark
Check the barrels on those t-99's, they may be original. I have seen t-99's at yard sales and auctions that had the barrel turned in about 1/2 inch and re-cut to .300 Savage. I still have one and at 100 yards it is really accurate with .308 diameter bullets. Has a feed problem with more than two bullets but I never cared enough to work it out. Had one in .308 WIN and also had the feed problem. If you did not take one to the range you should. The results might surprise you.

The rifle on top is two grooves and has a sporter taper and is go with a .3000" pin gauge.
The rifle on the bottom has 4 grooves and a stepped taper and is a go with a .3020" pin gauge.

 

[zbones6]

Arisaka value?

My uncle gave me a pre-WWII Type 38 Arisaka over the summer. The Mum is ground off, but all the serial numbers match and there are no import markings. 99% of the blueing is intact (besides the mum) and there is only 1 gauge in the stock on the left side. Bore is dark, but zero pitting and 99% intact rifling. According to him, it spent 50 years in his attic. Not that i plan on selling it, but what is the value (give or take) of this rifle?

 

[zbones6]

Arisaka value?

Also, the front sight is missing. the base is still there, but the post was drifted off the dovetail.

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

Zbones,

You might want to move your question on your rifle to either the C&R or the HL Research category.

It will get more reads/responses that way. I would be happy to answer questions on your 38, but would need to see pics taken with a real camera to be of much help. Your description needs more explanation to place value.

Now I'm bowing out of this thread so as not to be hijacking it.

JT