Rechambering 700BDL

I still have the original walnut stock. Never thought about replacing the stock as there is nothing wrong or broken with the original wood.

I very much appreciate your input on possible calibers for this rifle. As much as I like the 7mm-08 cartridge, I have a hunting rifle in 7x57 Mauser already. I just figured the two cartridges are pretty close in performance. Hence, my leaning toward the 6.5 CM at the moment.

Man-bun? That's funny as I would be happy to more hair on top.:)
 
Yeah, I'm just poking a little good-natured fun at the 6.5 Creedmoor. I actually think that it's an excellent caliber. It's everything that the 250 Savage was and more besides. It would probably even fit in the old Savage 99. But 6.5 Creedmoor vs 260 Remington? I think the better choice depends on whether you will be reloading and the rifle it's intended for. In your rifle, assuming identical rifling twist and reloading, I think I would go 260. The 6.5 has the advantage when it comes to availability of factory ammo, so it may be the better choice, overall.
 
I'd buy the missing bolt stop parts and trigger, you more than likely can install them yourself. Once you get the barreled action back in working order, I'd mail it off to Douglas Barrels and have them install the barrel in the chamber you want. I think Douglas will install one of their barrels for less than $600 with shipping.

I wouldn't probably go heavier than a Remington magnum contour if you still want to use it for hunting. Also remember if you go with a larger contour barrel than original, you'll have to have to open up your stock for the new contour. This is no big deal, but it is something to think about.

You should be able to keep right at or under $1,000 pretty easily. However, it's very easy to blow the budget as well. Have fun with it and let us know what you decide.
 
taylorce1,
I agree with you on getting the trigger group/parts first and then sending the completed action to be rebarreled.
Staying within budget is going to be difficult -- as my eyes are usually much bigger than my wallet.:D
-s
 
I didn't see where anyone suggested rechambering the barrel to .22-250 Improved, which is a bit hotter than the regular round, but more importantly, has straighter case walls and a sharper shoulder, so for handloaders, cases last longer.

I entertained rechambering both of my .22-250s, but they shot so accurately and won so many turkey shoots that I didn't dare.
 
I entertained rechambering both of my .22-250s, but they shot so accurately and won so many turkey shoots that I didn't dare.
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It happens. A guy here had one of the first run of Ruger 77 Swifts, supposedly with Douglas barrel instead of their usual Wilson contract or in house. He said it was so accurate that he did not spend barrel life on varmints or "centerfire plinking" but entered it in benchrest matches stockgun division. He reported winning several times the price of the rifle.
 
The rifle will still be chambered for 22-250 for the next few months. Given the opportunity, I will see about shooting it once I get the trigger group completed.
Thanks for the idea. its always good to hear what others suggest and are thinking.
 
much appreciate the link to preferred barrel blanks. I never heard about this company until now.
I admit I have been getting one heck of an education on this forum.
 
If you keep the wood stock, I encourage you to free-float the barrel...about 3/32" from at least a couple inches ahead of the recoil shield. Then, install epoxyed-in pillars at each action screw and glassbed the action. I make my own pillars using steel from a (shopping center?) hardware store's 1/2"-tubing/shaft material (available in the rack where the threaded shafts are also located).

There's lots of information on bedding on the 'net. If you make an error, it's easy to fill-in voids after removing the metal and touching it up. For release compound, I like neutral paste shoe polish. It can be applied very thin and it works well.
 
For sure I plan on shooting the rifle first before I do anything to it. My initial plan is to find and buy the missing parts and shoot it to see how it performs.
 
The 6.5 Creedmore is "the" cartridge of the year, but when people figure out it's not as good as some other cartridges, like the 7mm-08 or .308 for deer-sized game, or other great cartridges with a longer history, there will be lots of 6.5's in the used-rifle rack in the gun stores.

Call me crazy, but unless someone is into range rifle shooting, it has no pizazz for me as a hunter.
 
Picher said:
The 6.5 Creedmore is "the" cartridge of the year, but when people figure out it's not as good as some other cartridges, like the 7mm-08 or .308 for deer-sized 
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I don't own a 6.5 Creedmoor, but I hunt with people who do. I'd venture to say the Creedmoor is as capable as any cartridge on deer sized game.
 
I don't own a 6.5 Creedmoor, but I hunt with people who do. I'd venture to say the Creedmoor is as capable as any cartridge on deer sized game.
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The Creedmoor (and the .260 Rem and some other 6.5s) essentially duplicate the performance of the 6.5x55mm Swede round in a smaller case optimized for certain rifles.

The Swede's great performance in the game fields has been widely recognized since the late 1890s, and I would expect the same results from any other round firing the same size & weight bullets in the same velocity range.
 
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