Reblue Old Remington Model 8?

Thanks for the sight information. Sure enough, found more info and it is a Redfield base. Most of the other tang sights were contoured to fit against the back of the receiver with the hinged staff. Glad it was not some Bubba work that had to be dealt with.

Added: If you can, how about letting us know how the gun shoots.
 
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If you wanted to keep it vintage could you find the parts to resurrect that Redfield sight?

That should make it a little unique and add some character to it.
 
Remington tang sight

Yes the old sight would be very appropriate on the gun. Period sights have become more expensive in recent years. To me, the old sights would be a plus. Hope OP has other parts of the sight. Looks like the barrel sight is not attached. I know of individuals who have bought entire guns for correct period sights.
 
If money or access to someone to do hot-dip bluing try this:

I really like Brownell's Oxpho-Blue and Dicropan T-4, both available from Brownell's 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, IOWA 50171. Oxpho-Blue lasts longer, but Dicropan T-4 sometimes works better on certain steels.

Some sporting goods stores carry one or both of these Brownell's products.

*Again...They're not as good as hot-dip bluing, but will protect steel until you can get the gun(s) polished and hot-dip blued.
 
Personal Opinion-Shoot first: My hopes are that the pitting looks worse in the pictures than in real life. The edges look sharp. I'd be very selective about who did the bluing. The rifle has sharp edges and the screws look good. Ripples and dished out screw holes will make rifle worse. I would not use that cold blue stuff on anything as rifle would be better left in the white. One aspect that has not been discussed is the ruined wood. Getting the stock and forend replaced will make OP's rifle look 100% better.
 
Opinion only:

I have rust blued a couple older guns that were hopelessly rusted and pitted. Hot blue is glaringly obvious when done over pitting. Rust blue will not cover up pitting, but being a softer matte blue, it will look better than the hot blue.

If it were on my bench to work on, I would strip all of the rust and not touch the metal - no hope in polishing out the pits. Just ensure a uniform base metal and rust blue it.

The stock really also needs a re-finish or a replacement.

They are beautiful and fascinating rifles, whether it's worth it is up to you. I would figure minimum $300-400 to rust blue the metal, more depending on the smith you go with.

I wouldn't touch it with cold blue. Someone mentioned Oxpho blue, and that's about the best of the best, but it's still cold blue. The difference is very obvious.
 
I’d cerakote it with different shades of OD green tiger stripes. Just kidding, I’d honestly go shoot it the way it is to make sure it works first. I’m super jealous, always wanted a .35 Remington model 8 or 81.
 
Taking in consideration the wood ( recoil pad ) the D&T for scope, sight base on rear of reciever is more D&T. I would shoot the rifle the way it is. Unless a gun like this has sentimental value the cost of a good refinish isn't practical. 8s are good rifles but if they have any problems parts are hard to come by. If it functions and shoots decent I would be happy to leave it alone and use as is.
 
I'm in the "shoot and enjoy" camp. For a ocouple reasons. 1. No matter what you spend, and it could be quite a bit, it is never going to be a collector, or worth a fraction of what refinishing it properly will cost.
2. I enjoy old guns as is. Realizing the battle scars are all an important part of their history, and the history of the former owners.
My opinions only. It's your gun, and considering the current condition you aren't going to ruin any collector value. Nor increase it much either. But if it makes you happy to spruce it up, have at it.
 
Query Remington and see what they would do for you..

Oxphoro paste is the best of the cold blues. It really aint past but is more like
pancake syrup but not so sticky in consistancy. It will do a so so job. Go to youtube for oxphoro blue application ideas. Best is probably w/ steel wool, believe it or not.

The pitting is a BIG problem. I once took a Ithaca for reblue. Some yahoo had taken a pipewrench and tried to remove the barrel. Gun came back pristine and about 1974 for $75.
 
Nothing in bad condition is worth the money it costs to fix it ,however if you do the work it will be worth more at least than it is in the present condition.rust blueing is the best looking and most durable of finishes ,AND IT IS EASIER to do rust blueing at home than hot blueing and cheaper,and simpler just study on it ,then call Brownells for the products,I would even consider parkerizing it .it is highly unlikely anything you did to it would devalue it,do everything you can yourself,if your capable,when I have something.blued .I finish it myself so all he does is the dipping.Of course the appearance guarantee is on you but if you can finish steel (i can)you have done the biggest part ,the prep work.
 
Its not so much the cheap bluing job that de-values. Its the aggressive buffing of the barrels stamped lettering and edges of_ that reduces overall value. I've witnessed another hot bluing and buffing out a Model 70 done so well in a garage it was near impossible with the naked eye to know original or re-blued. To my surprise the old fellow actually checked his work with a magnifying glass prior all thru and at jobs end. That's how articulate a bluing job can be done and should be done. Nothing more handsome than a deep blue black sheen on a old favorite Long barrel no matter the caliber.
 
Veprdude, I have a bunch of 32 Remington brass listed on our fore sale forum. Maybe the reloading gurus can say if it can be necked up to 35 Remington. It just might get you shooting sooner than trying to find 35 Rem cases. Just a thought. Grant.
 
35 Remington was available in new cartridges a few months back before the SHTF. I'm sure nobody has panic-bought it up. I still don't own any but it seems this project is deep-shelved in favor of others.
 
Aw Shucks, I thought there would be a line for the 32 Rem cases, just like my 280 Ross cases, 7 by 61 Sharp&Hart cases, 30 Newton cases, and a few other oddballs. I suspect that most things that wont work in an AR are not much in demand. Good Luck with whatever your next project is. Grant.
 
Veprdude, I have a bunch of 32 Remington brass listed on our fore sale forum. Maybe the reloading gurus can say if it can be necked up to 35 Remington. It just might get you shooting sooner than trying to find 35 Rem cases. Just a thought. Grant.
Click to expand...

Nope.
.35 Remington is, as far as I know, a unique head diameter, at least in US cartridges.
.32 (.25, .30) Remington is very close to a rimless .32 Special.
 
Are you trying to restore it to original appearance or make it functional for use?

If the former, I would contact Turnbull Restoration for guidance.

If the latter, I would look into one of the modern finishes for extra protection and self-lubricating properties.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
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