Smokin_Gun
New member
In a word obtrusion and .440" lands...add fowling it's sealed.
Reaming Pietta chamber throats?
- Thread starter Poodleshooter
- Start date
PoodleShooter, with that reamer made for,"cartridge" cylinders and sized for them you could only ream a short ways down into the chamber. About the depth of the throat in a cartridge cylinder. Going to a place like MSC machine tols supply you can get "chucking reamers" in increments of .0005. Get a straight flute, four flute chucking reamer and use it in a drill press or take it to a machine shop with the cylinder and figure how deep the ball would ever go with the powder charge you use and have it reamed a hair deeper. Or........ just get a reamer to use to size all the chambers to the same size. The size of the largest chamber you have. .449?? That would be about .003 smaller than the grooves and would be fine with some obstuation and all. Take them all to .451 about half way down into the chambers too.A chucking reamer costs about $10-$12 and can be used in a drill press if the person takes their time and trues up the cylinder to ream on center and all. Gotta have one of those little machinists vises maybe.My mill doesn't have electricity or I'd do it for ya. I thus had to take some to a machine shop with the appropriate reamers and the guy did them for about $30 a piece. I took about ten of them in there. I do have a reamer custom made that has a pilot on the front of it but the pilot is fixed and intregal with the reamer and looks alot like the one in the picture. It has a pilot of .450 so I have to use a chucking reamer first to make the chambers ,450 and then do the hand ream with the custom tool but it reams to .458 .Tell ya what. You sent me the cylinder and I'll run it to that shop for ya. You'd have to pay the machine shop about $30 and pay the shipping to me and back to you but I'd get it done fer ya. I have to go there to get about three other Rem cylinders reamed anyhow. Would reaming to .452 half way into the cylinder be good?
Take out barrels-or turn to true up
I have taken barrels out of Piettas Remingtons and it's no biggy.Gotta have a good vise and pad the jaws with leather and account for any taper and clamp er down and use a piece of hardwood made into a wrench to fit into the frame window that fits and puts the force evenly across the frame to crank er out. A gunsmith friend I had(died) said that Uberti must use some kind of industrial strength thread lockers because no matter how he tried it the barrels of Uberti Rems don't come off.Not even with heat. The gunsmith friend did accurizing jobs to Colts and Remingtons percussions and for the "Supreme" Remington Accurizing job would fit a Badger barrel to the gun. He didn't ream the chambers though until he talked to me about it and then added that to the package. My package didn't include barrel changing to Badger barrels. No lathe. I didn't think it was needed anyhow. A Pietta barrel is fine with a little lapping. I just did the dovetailed front sight, reshaped the rear sight(open them up -lowered it with the Colts), took the creep out of the trigger, reamed the chambers to match the barrels grooves or go .002 over groove, smooth and deepen and make concentric with the bore the forcing cone with a special piloted tool, and the same with the muzzle crown and the customer did the filing of the taller front sight to the load they used and drifted the front dovetailed sight for any windage adjustment. Never had any complaints. That seemed to accurize the guns well enough. I think most of the Remintons are pretty accurate the way they come and a little finese just adds more satisfaction when shooting since they feel better with a "no-creep" trigger and are more consistant accurcy wise with the chambers at groove diameter and the sights regulated to hit point of aim with the best load. Some people just liked the chambers to be uniform to the biggest one and were satisfied with that less removal of metal from the chambers.Colts were more finicky with the barrel and wedge and all that. If the barrel can move with firing the accuracy isn't as good. The Colts needed a simple shim put on the front top of the arbor to make the barrel tight on it and stop the movement that hurts the wedge and all. Colt arbors don't have to be bottomed out in the barrels arbor hole to be tight and parallel to the axis of the bore if the shim on the front top of the arbor is there in the barrels arbor hole with the arbor to tighten the barrel to the arbor.With the shim on the front top of the arbor the barrel goes up to the frame at the bottom of the barrel there and stops rock solid just like the arbor was bottomed in the arbor hole.Makes a difference with the Colts for sure. Makes it a pain to reload preloaded cylinders though and it's best not to keep taking the barrel of the shimmed arbor except for cleaning. The barrel is poped off the arbor when it's tight because of the shim by putting the loading plunger between the chambers and using the leverage of the loading lever to pop it off the arbor.It's a little tricky putting the barrel on a shimmed arbor but no biggy once a person does it a coupla times. I'm rambling again. Gotta go. See ya Pards.
I have taken barrels out of Piettas Remingtons and it's no biggy.Gotta have a good vise and pad the jaws with leather and account for any taper and clamp er down and use a piece of hardwood made into a wrench to fit into the frame window that fits and puts the force evenly across the frame to crank er out. A gunsmith friend I had(died) said that Uberti must use some kind of industrial strength thread lockers because no matter how he tried it the barrels of Uberti Rems don't come off.Not even with heat. The gunsmith friend did accurizing jobs to Colts and Remingtons percussions and for the "Supreme" Remington Accurizing job would fit a Badger barrel to the gun. He didn't ream the chambers though until he talked to me about it and then added that to the package. My package didn't include barrel changing to Badger barrels. No lathe. I didn't think it was needed anyhow. A Pietta barrel is fine with a little lapping. I just did the dovetailed front sight, reshaped the rear sight(open them up -lowered it with the Colts), took the creep out of the trigger, reamed the chambers to match the barrels grooves or go .002 over groove, smooth and deepen and make concentric with the bore the forcing cone with a special piloted tool, and the same with the muzzle crown and the customer did the filing of the taller front sight to the load they used and drifted the front dovetailed sight for any windage adjustment. Never had any complaints. That seemed to accurize the guns well enough. I think most of the Remintons are pretty accurate the way they come and a little finese just adds more satisfaction when shooting since they feel better with a "no-creep" trigger and are more consistant accurcy wise with the chambers at groove diameter and the sights regulated to hit point of aim with the best load. Some people just liked the chambers to be uniform to the biggest one and were satisfied with that less removal of metal from the chambers.Colts were more finicky with the barrel and wedge and all that. If the barrel can move with firing the accuracy isn't as good. The Colts needed a simple shim put on the front top of the arbor to make the barrel tight on it and stop the movement that hurts the wedge and all. Colt arbors don't have to be bottomed out in the barrels arbor hole to be tight and parallel to the axis of the bore if the shim on the front top of the arbor is there in the barrels arbor hole with the arbor to tighten the barrel to the arbor.With the shim on the front top of the arbor the barrel goes up to the frame at the bottom of the barrel there and stops rock solid just like the arbor was bottomed in the arbor hole.Makes a difference with the Colts for sure. Makes it a pain to reload preloaded cylinders though and it's best not to keep taking the barrel of the shimmed arbor except for cleaning. The barrel is poped off the arbor when it's tight because of the shim by putting the loading plunger between the chambers and using the leverage of the loading lever to pop it off the arbor.It's a little tricky putting the barrel on a shimmed arbor but no biggy once a person does it a coupla times. I'm rambling again. Gotta go. See ya Pards.