rcbs lock out die ?

Just ask yourself if you KNOW that you inspect every charge by eye every time. If I ask myself that question, I have to admit that I may not always--I don't know that I missed looking, but I am not infallible. Then, I don't trust any piece of equipment if I can simply look.
So, NO, you are doing just what you should be doing.
For myself, my Lock-Out dies are so sensitive that they hang up on cases with more or less volume that the charged case used to "calibrate" it. I run it slightly loose so I can screw it in or out just a smidge to see if it releases. If I could ask for anything, I would ask for them to be less sensitive.
So far, after using one for at least three years, I have not found even one charge that was more than 0.1gn off the target what the die locks up. Doesn't mean when I am cranking out ammunition that I want to skip using it--just in case...
 
For pistols When you guys say you run the decapper and sizer in station one you mean sizer they are already decapped correct? When I do pistols I decap resize then tumble so when I am ready to load I don't need to run that die.
 
For pistols When you guys say you run the decapper and sizer in station one you mean sizer they are already decapped correct?
Click to expand...

No, the sizing and decapping happens when the ram is raised on position #1, the primer is installed when the ram is lowered. There is something about plugging the primer pocket with the primer that is required before powder is added.

F. Guffey
 
Yes. You would be amazed at how little damage is done by not scraping off the little smear of soot or varnish is left after firing a pistol case. You really ought to confirm that your case heads are functional before putting new brass into use, and it'd be a good idea to check any strange brass you pick up. Bottom line, though, if you reuse a once fired she'll, it has already passed a certain number of tests.
 
You know, the whole "clean the primer pocket" started about 15 years ago and was taken from the benchrest crowd, where the mantra is "if it can't hurt, it might help."
Before that, folks loaded for well over a century without worrying about the primer pocket.
1) The black soot in the primer pocket does not build up over time and seating the primer is not a +/- 0.0005" tolerance job.
2) Unless you are shooting well under 0.3 MOA, what possible gain can there be for cleaning the pocket.
Make sure the primers are seating just below flush and that is all you need to do.
So, if you want a clean pocket any way, you should inspect, deprime and sort cases before cleaning and then either ultrasonically clean or Stainless Steel pin clean your cases, so you let the cleaning system clean the primer pockets )that don't need cleaning any way) and not waste your time doing a pointless job.
The goal is to get in more shooting time and not more case prep time.
 
It shows there are many different ways to reload for sure. It comes down to what works best for you. I use the shell sorter to separate the casings. If I plan on doing 9mm I will take a 5 gallon bucket put in a little dawn add water and toss a couple thousands casings in there and mix by hand. I pick up the casings from a outdoor range so they are pretty dirty. I rinse then use my dehydrator to dry them. I then decap and resize as many as I feel like doing. I tumble the casings with ss pins using dawn and lemi shine. My reloading setup is flare, prime, powder, lockout die, " I do a visual inspection also" tube bullet feeder, set and crimp. I feel what saves me time is the shell sorter the dehydrator and the bullet feeder tube. Some ppl will say only use a rock chucker to each their own I guess. :D
 
One of the great things in life is having a good thing going, a plan and a process, and have someone say

"What ya gotta do is dump your stuff and everything you do, then get what I tell you to get and do what I tell ya."

I once had a guy tell me that anyone who puts ketchup and mustard on a hot dog, or eats his burgers without jalapenos should be drawn and quartered. Seriously, what can you say when you meet up with a brain that is so rancid?

The primary concern is safety and quality. Then you have to ask what your needs are, and spend every cent you can getting high quality lifetime equipment. You can never forget #1. There are always new things that you will discover that will guide you to new improvemens somewhere.. I own a ninety year old house, for twenty years, and I'm still learning things about it.
 
I used to seat and crimp in one step for years with no problem, the reason I do it in two steps now is because I use a collet crimp die on my pistol magnum loads. This method is much easier on the brass an eliminates having to trim brass for a consistent crimp. Mainly though I shoot the same ammo in both my revolvers and lever actions so I like a pretty fair crimp. On my 9mm I like to crimp separately with the Lee factory crimp die.
 
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