rcbs lock out die ?

R

rebs

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I have the rcbs lockout die on my progressive press, I set it up and it works great for no charge and over charge and I still visually check every case for proper load. Is this being anal or should I just trust the lockout die ?
 
Anything mechanical can screw up. Although I don't have a lock-out die on my Dillon 550, I always check inside the brass at station #3 before seating for possible double charge or squib. My powder drop never varies more then +- .2 at most. Bottom Line: Nothing wrong with your procedures for safety.
 
IMHO, don't trust the lockout die until YOU feel that it can be trusted. I use one for loading pistol ammo and I trust it, but I didn't trust it until I had a few sessions under my belt with it and it had caught all of the random "no charges" and "double charges" that I deliberately threw at it. My confidence in mine doesn't mean you should trust yours, though. You need confidence in it. It's your die, not ours. ymmv
 
. . . or should I just trust the lockout die ?
Click to expand...

Well if you ask me - and you kinda did - I say no. Do not rely completely on the lockout die. The lockout die is just another layer of safety - not THE layer of safety. That's my opinion.

But then, I don't powder charge on a progressive. I have a "hybred" loading method where I still hand prime (Lee Auto-Prime), and hand charge with my RCBS Uniflow and loading blocks. I simply don't trust mechanical charging systems; not to mention, not wanting do deal with all the related apparati.

(I do use a progressive press, but I separate the brass reconditioning and loading segments. To me, they are completely different processes.)
 
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It's easy enough to visually check a block of shells. With rifle ammo, I use a mArked rod and verify every charge. Like you, I prime in parcels, and do both sizing processes in large lots. The only thing left is measuring and seating, and that is done in blocks.

So, all BS aside,the only progressive press I would use is a fully automatic one. Of course I'd use a lockout die and watch it like a hawk. I believe that a progressive is safer, to a certain extent. Things move smoothly through every step. Less chance for error with charging.

I'd handle this as you choose but having an inaccurate charge would depend on your measure failing and then the lockout failing as well. I feel that you should be safe, but building layers of redundancy into a human process is ALWAYS a good idea, until it degenerates into a waste of time.

Just one more time I'd like to point out that unless a person has far more money than time, or is simply incapable of keeping up with vast amounts of ammo production, a cheap press that requires a ton of adjustments and has no automation, preventing the user from simply chugging along by just pulling a handle, is an unnecessary thing. A low level press that requires manually charging and adding the bullet is of questionable value imo.

I like being in my shop. Once everything is set up, loading takes no time at all.

My brother bought a used Lee, discarded it and got a base model Dillon, and still wound up doing a lot of work by hand on a single stage.
 
I have the lock out die also. I still look at them all or at least I think I do. In either case I haven't had a squib. What I am saying is keep looking but if for some reason you happen to miss one it should catch it. Every time I do a batch I leave one empty and dbl load one to see if it catches it so far no problems.
 
I've had my LNL since last year and use a powder cop most of the time. Maybe I'm lucky but I've never had a no charge or double charge in that time with it.
I'm looking at getting the lock out die but so far the powder cop has been working.
 
Thank you for the replies. I bought the Hornady LNL Ap because of an non-reparable shoulder injury. My shoulder just didn't do well working the lever of my single stage to reload pistol ammo because of all the handle pulls required to load one round. With the progressive I get one round for one handle pull and it saves me a lot of shoulder pain.
 
I remember that now. Is it working well for that?

I think that a progressive is great if it fulfills a need. It certainly fulfills your needs, I hope.
 
I have recently installed the RCBS Lock-out Die. I had one case without powder. So I guess I had not setup it correctly. I will redo it, but since then I had a light installed at the seating station and check every case for powder.
 
You could also take that a step further and install a mirror so you can see the charge from your chair, instead of leaning over with every stroke. Once again this requires diligence on four part, not haphazard observations.
 
briandg yes it has helped greatly with my shoulder. I can load a lot more rounds than I could before and not have the pain to go with it. I should have bought this press a long time ago. Thank you for asking about it.
 
Briandg I like your mirror idea. All five stations on my Pro 1000 are in use so I can't use another position to check my powder level. I don't have a problem with just a visual inspection and a mirror will work great thanks.
 
I hope it works for you, I've never tried it, but it makes sense. Get a good led light positioned on the case mouth and clip a mirror on that allows you to see from wherever you sit.

As I said, I charge by blocks from a bench measure, so I've never tried this before. Luck to you.
 
you tube provides neat tips.....

I have a number of lock out dies to check the powder level in reloads. It has saved me from major disaster more than once. YouTube has helped me when in doubt.....
 
I do use a powder through expander in my setup. Here are my stations, 1-decapping/resize, 2- decapping die without the pin to help keep the casing in place while priming, 3- powder drop with powder through expander, 4- bullet seating, 5-bullet crimp die. I'm going to get one of those small mirrors like mechanics use and mount it so I can see down in the case to at least verify if the powder level looks about right. The only load I've had an issue with is with 700X in my 9mm using the Pro Disc powder measure. I'm also going to switch to the Auto Drum and test it for better consistency. All my other standard loads haven't given me any issues.
 
I've said this a few times, one of my precautions is to check a powder density chart, such as the one Lee makes, before buying a powder. Low density powders almost fill a case, and usually, they can't be double charged, and minor variations in charges from a powder measure will be less likely to be large increases in weight. I also tend to use slower powders as the again take larger charges.

A two grain charge of bullseye can double, and I can't tell the difference. A five grain charge of a slower, low density powder will literally spill from the case if doubled

Of all of the things that Lee makes, that automatic powder expander die was great. A great safety measure. I had one for each station, and eventually gave both of them away. Let someone else deal with them.

I will never use bullseye, and never use 296, I always choose mid range powders . In my experience, every time someone pops up with nothing but a twisted hammer and a hand grip and tells with the solemn voice of deep wisdom "don't put too much powder in your ammo because it's going to do this" tells me that it was bullseye, and they haven't a clue how it happened. One of them even said that the gun just didn't like bullseye
 
jetinteriorguy

This is my setup. decapper/ sizer in #1, mouth beller in #2, powder measure in #3, lock out die in #4, seat and crimp in #5.
I don't see a need to seat and crimp separately and do not have a reason for a die to help set the primer.
I used to seat and crimp separately but since learning how to adjust the seat/crimp die from guys on this site and the bullseye forum, I now seat and crimp with one die. It has worked out great for me. Back out the die and lock it, then seat a bullet without any crimp, then back out the seater plug and adjust the crimp the way you want it, then lock the die and put adjust the seating plug down til it just touches the bullet and lock it. That will seat and crimp in one step without and shaving of lead or any other problems.
 
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