RCBS calipers

Wendyj

New member
I started buying all RCBS dies because I was told they have a lifetime warranty on all their products. I still like my Lee dies but there warranty is 2 years. I bought a set of vernier calipers about a year ago and for some reason my needle doesn't point North as I call it anymore. Still measure ok when I compare to digital set I own but I'm OCD an want them like they were. I don't have the receipt anymore so not sure if they would take them back. I don't know what happened as they have never been dropped or abused. i can't find anyway to get the needle back straight up to keep 0 on top. Any ideas if it's something I can do to fix or just buy another set.
 
Really don't think it's worth the effort. Verniers aren't expensive. Mind you, the plastic RCBS one I have is 35ish years old and works just fine. Your's have a bit of crud on 'em?
You can test 'em without selling an organ by buying a set of feeler gauges. Made for setting the gap on a spark plug etc. A Lisle 68050 Valve Tappet Feeler Gauge Set .008 to .026 runs $4.45 in Wal-Mart.
 
I started buying all RCBS dies because I was told they have a lifetime warranty on all their products. I still like my Lee dies but there warranty is 2 years. I bought a set of vernier calipers about a year ago and for some reason my needle doesn't point North as I call it anymore. Still measure ok when I compare to digital set I own but I'm OCD an want them like they were. I don't have the receipt anymore so not sure if they would take them back. I don't know what happened as they have never been dropped or abused. i can't find anyway to get the needle back straight up to keep 0 on top. Any ideas if it's something I can do to fix or just buy another set.
"Vernier" calipers are not a modern tool. They did not have a dial, so what I think you are talking about is a "dial caliper", not vernier. If it is a dial caliper (has a dial and pointing needle), the dial can be adjusted by turning the outside ("bezel" I think it is called) to line the zero up with the pointing needle. This is called, "zeroing". A Vernier Caliper was a tedious instrument to use, whereas dial calipers are much easier to work with.
 
The needle is driven by a rack and pinion system. You can see the rack normally inside the groove when you have them opened up.

Back in the day a piece of dirt/crap/gunk would get into the rack and cause the gear to jump a tooth and then the needle wasn't at north, as you put it.

I would take a tiny piece of .001 shim stock (feeler gage) and force the gear to jump a tooth by running it up onto it. This is NOT an exacting science, but I could get it back by fiddling with it.

Then I learned to just keep the rack clean and they don't jump.
 
A Vernier Caliper was a tedious instrument to use, whereas dial calipers are much easier to work with.

Awww... They aren't that bad once you get used to them :) I used a nice set of made in Japan Central Tools vernier calipers when I first started loading.


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The above post is correct. You should have gotten a small copper shim with the dial calipers to adjust them. Some models use a half round pin that is inserted in a hole behind the dial body.
 
Awww... They aren't that bad once you get used to them I used a nice set of made in Japan Central Tools vernier calipers when I first started loading.
Then, if you had a Vernier Caliper and a Dial Caliper, you would use the Vernier Caliper instead of the Dial Caliper? Come on now...the Dial Caliper made the Vernier Caliper obsolete.
 
Then, if you had a Vernier Caliper and a Dial Caliper, you would use the Vernier Caliper instead of the Dial Caliper? Come on now...the Dial Caliper made the Vernier Caliper obsolete.
I have both along with some other mics. But, I'll take those verniers to the range with me because their not as tempting to steal as my Starett dials.

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I have both along with some other mics. But, I'll take those verniers to the range with me because their not as tempting to steal as my Starett dials.
That is why I take my abacus with me to the range instead of my calculator...no one wants to steal it. Precisely my point.
 
This pic show 9 of my working calipers and in the lower right is a glimpse of the caliper graveyard.

Calipers should last 2 years of full time use, and micrometers should last a lifetime, some machinists tell me. Dial indicators last about as long as WWII combat pilot around here.
 

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I don't know about the Mic's lasting a lifetime. Every once and a while I buy a new 0-1 Mitatoyo mic because it "Feels" loose. Depends on what you measure, I guess. Dial calipers are pretty much disposable after one year for me. I work with a lot of cast and it is like valve grinding compound.
 
i can't find anyway to get the needle back straight up to keep 0 on top.

I have several sets of dial calipers; when I adjust to zero I close the jaws and then rotate the face to zero. I have standards and transfers, when checking a micrometer for zero I use standards. I do not assume if the dial caliper is zero when closed it is accurate for the length of its travel.

I was given a last word indicator that has been abused, when I get it back together zero will not be a priority.

F. Guffey
 
Wow!!! I have a Plastic set of RCBS Dial Calipers from 1988. Believe it or not, i grab these things over my newer Digital set, and it's just as accurate (relative) for my needs. I just like I don't have to turn it off and on and don't worry if I drop it, which I never have! (now I've just jinxed myself!)

Anyway, RCBS has a great warranty, so why not just write to them?

Lee, can sometimes be hit and miss in my experience, but I still have some dies from the same period as my caliper, so technically I've never needed to use their warranty (on the dies that is). On their other plastic stuff, I usually write to them and see what they say, every now and then i have to pay for shipping, other times it's send us a pic and we will mail it out ASAP. Usually, i haven't had to show when I bought it.
 
I don't know about the Mic's lasting a lifetime. Every once and a while I buy a new 0-1 Mitatoyo mic because it "Feels" loose.
My pair of Brown & Sharpe,made in North Kingstown R.I. are older than the hills and still accurate to the tenth,I expect it to still be so long after I'm no longer on this side.
Mitatoyo or Mitutoyo as they are also known are not be on same quality level.
 
Look at the instruction sheet , if you no longer have it , the RCBS site has them under RCBS Product Instructions. Both dial calipers and vernier micrometers are able to be brought back to zero . They are not broken , more than likely just need adjustment.
My Cabela's dial caliber has a locking screw on the dial bezel, close the jaws , if the needle is not on zero , loosen the screw and turn the bezel until the needle is on zero , then turn the bezel locking screw in until it is snug...
Now the needle is back to pointing " North" as you would say.
I don't know if RCBS uses the exact same system but it should be something similar.
Gary
 
polyphemus, You are correct. Mitatoyo is way way above Brown&Sharpe's quality level. All mics wear out. If you constantly grind high speed and carbide tools they wear out even faster. I don't buy name brand, I buy the best. I will buy B&S dial indicators and Starret depth mics, but neither one can make an OD mic as good as Mitatoyo.
 
re: non-competitive reloading - If you can find a cheap $15 standard on ebay to verify caliper accuracy, then buy Harbor Freight calipers that read to 0.0005. Lee dies work great for non-competitive reloads along w/ their presses. For precision, the sky is the limit on speciality gear, presses, and dies.
 
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