Range rod

rebs

Are you sure that your local welder or welding supply doesn't have some small brass brazing rod? The supply place might want you to buy a pound of rod unless they sell by the stick, but if a welder has some he would probably give you a couple inches.

But the brass brads would be good if they are solid brass, not plated steel, and long enough.

I think 1/8" is too big and might make the ramrod weak. And I think copper is to soft. I would rather use aluminum if I couldn't find brass. I got a stick of 3/32 ( .091") aluminum rod from a welding supply shop a couple weeks ago, they didn't make me buy a pound. That was the smallest diameter aluminum rod that they had. I don't think I'd want to use a larger diameter for a pin myself, and smaller would be better. I thought you were going to try the 'nail' end of an aluminum pop rivet??
 
Last edited:
I'll go back to home depot today and ask for the escutcheon pins, which size would be preferred the #16 or #18 ? The only pop rivets I have are a few large size.
 
rebs

Yeah they would need to be the small aluminum rivets.....but brass is better any way.

A larger number is a smaller diameter pin. You don't need a very large pin to hold a cap on that is glued. You might look at your drill bits...even take a few along in your pocket, to see which pin would give you the best fit in the hole for the bits you have.
 
Last edited:
I went to a Ace Hardware and they had escutcheon pins 16 x 1 inch. They look a lot better for the job. Thank you for telling me about them, I appreciate it. I plan to use a drill bit that allows them to go in somewhat snug and also use Gorilla glue on them to hold them in place.
 
Nothing wrong with using the glue.I might use a small countersink or even a knife blade to put small chamfers on the hole I drilled through the ferrule.Not much,just a little.Barely break the corner,about .005 or so.
Then when you put your escutcheon pin through you can peen the ends of the pin just a little,like a rivet..It will expand into that chamfer.

Then lightly file over it ,so its flush.It won't fall out.
 
The problem is pulling out a well-seated bullet, rest of the activities aren't nearly as stressful on the rod.

Personally I use stainless steel which is threaded on one side so you can put in various extensions, and you know a steel rod definitely will not break.
 
with the brass ends with small threads what are the chances of pulling out the threads ? Has this ever happened to anyone when pulling a stuck bullet ?
 
I suggest you just pin it,use it,and don't worry about it.

If you are going to use a wooden rod,it does not get much better.

But I'll say again,having a 50 BMG GI rod in the truck is a good thing.

Typical jags,worms,etc screw on just fine.If you get a chance at one,I'd recommend it
 
If it aint broke, don't fix it !!!~

with the brass ends with small threads what are the chances of pulling out the threads ? Has this ever happened to anyone when pulling a stuck bullet ?
Click to expand...
NEVER !!!
As previously stated, I have pulled RB's, conicals and Saboted rounds and not even a sign of wear. ....... ;)


Enjoy and;
Be Safe !!!
 
with the brass ends with small threads what are the chances of pulling out the threads ? Has this ever happened to anyone when pulling a stuck bullet ?
Click to expand...

No and I've had a couple so tight I had to lock the rod tip in a vice and snatch the rifle off of it.
 
what about a T handle ? I have seen aluminum ones with aluminum threads and others with brass threads. Which is better or preferred ?
 
I have one range rod that I really like made from brass. The extra weight is sure nice when you get a round that is being a little obstinate about going all the way down.
 
I understand enjoying the aesthetics of traditional wood rod while loading and shooting.
When something goes wrong,its OK to use the best tool available.

IMO,it can be modern.

Stuck ball? Two kinds.

One,trying to take too many shots between swabbing the bore.An aggravating factor is using too much powder.
Extra powder is sort of like an engine running rich and carboning up.If things get crunchy after 5 rounds,back off your charge.
If you moisten your patches with something like Black Solve and have the right charge,you should get plenty of shots off without needing to swab.
Then,have a feel for it,and run a wet patch as needed.

The other problem would be forgetting to put the powder in.

How often does that happen?

I don't recall if I ever had to do this,its been decades...but seems to me by pulling the nipple out of my Griffin hook breech,or the drum screw out of a conventional side hammer, enough 3 F or 4F can be fed in behind the ball to bloop it out of the barrel.Others may have more to say about it.

I never had to use a ball puller.

Now,day in ,day out loading,etc,I would not use a sectioned rod.

But,right now,on e-bay,are sectional steel 50 BMG tee-handled cleaning rods.They should be able to pull anything.

Cleaning?I used to pop the bbl out of my Hawken.

I modified a Water-Pik hand held shower handle by cutting it off and epoxying a 3 ft piece of 3/8 brass tube in it.

I'd screw that on the hose,insert it clear to the breech.I had a tag of wire to hook to a ramrod thimble.A prep wet patch with black solve won't hurt

Then I'd turn on the hot water.

Full pressure hot water blasted into the breech ,pumping the crud out

And the barrel would be hot when I was done.

A few dry patches and an oily one,I was done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top