Bartholomew Roberts
Moderator
Jaywalker:
No, not that I recall. I'm going from memory here so you might want to verify it; but the Lake City should show less flash since I don't believe Winchester includes the flash retardant in the civilian Q3131 or the Q3131A( same round but manufactured in Israel).
M855 or SS109 with NATO headstamp will also have the flash retardant.
Absolom:
If you REALLY wanted to know, you'd hop over to the Tactical Forums and ask instead of repeating speculation and questions to someone who has already explained that they only have used one brand (Rock River) of aftermarket trigger. I can only assume you have some other purpose with the above comment and I'm missing what that is. Perhaps you could elaborate?
As far as aftermarket triggers go, my best stock Bushy trigger is a single stage with a 5lb pull and a tiny bit of creep that is barely noticeable. My RRA NM aftermarket trigger is a 4.5 two-stage trigger with no creep at all, a short first stage and a crisp break. I like them both; but I was a little disappointed that the $85 RRA trigger was only marginally better than the $24 worth of Bushmaster mil-spec parts (trigger and hammer).
Although it is worth keeping in mind that RRA produces a consistent trigger. If I buy a new one, I know that the pull isn't going to be much different than the one I have.
With Bushmaster, its just luck of the draw on how well the different surfaces mate. Triggers can be anywhere from 5-9lbs and taking a hammer from a gun with a heinous trigger pull and matching it with a different trigger might improve it or it might make it worse. You kind of have to play with the parts to see.
Then again, you can buy 3 hammer/trigger sets from Bushmaster and still save money over the discounted price I paid for the RRA trigger.
Things I like about the RRA trigger: Good crisp two-stage trigger and I love the oversized trigger and hammer pins that reduce the problem of trigger pin walk to nil. I also like that it makes the disconnector a fixed part of the trigger - one less item to break/get lost/etc.
One thing that concerns me about it is that the hammer uses a different spring arrangement and a much lighter, narrower hammer. I am concerned with how well this hammer will do with military surplus ammo with hard primers. I think I may see some light strikes there; but I haven't had a chance to test that theory yet so I could easily be wrong. I haven't used any other brand of aftermarket trigger; but I've noted that most of them share the lighter hammer design so that may be an issue with other brands as well.
Well, the quoted part from Pat Rogers made it clear he was talking about service rifles - not bench guns, varmint guns, what have you. If you don't feel the test is relevant to what we are discussing then why are we discussing it?
Bartholomew, you're right. It's strange that I associated that brand with your advice. Did you perhaps recommend it to someone else at some time in another thread? Also, I saw more muzzle flash than I expected, and wonder if that level is what I'll see with the Lake City M193.
No, not that I recall. I'm going from memory here so you might want to verify it; but the Lake City should show less flash since I don't believe Winchester includes the flash retardant in the civilian Q3131 or the Q3131A( same round but manufactured in Israel).
M855 or SS109 with NATO headstamp will also have the flash retardant.
Absolom:
Bartholomew: No, I REALLY wanted to know. I've fired several thousand rounds over my JP trigger. There doesn't seem to be any fragility about the JP design, nor the Compass Lake design. I haven't personally seen a Jewell, but I do know that Jewell has one of the best reputations in the business for quality triggers.
If you REALLY wanted to know, you'd hop over to the Tactical Forums and ask instead of repeating speculation and questions to someone who has already explained that they only have used one brand (Rock River) of aftermarket trigger. I can only assume you have some other purpose with the above comment and I'm missing what that is. Perhaps you could elaborate?
Other than quoting an article by somebody else, I thought that you might have some personal negative experiences or had made some personal observations of aftermarket AR triggers.
As far as aftermarket triggers go, my best stock Bushy trigger is a single stage with a 5lb pull and a tiny bit of creep that is barely noticeable. My RRA NM aftermarket trigger is a 4.5 two-stage trigger with no creep at all, a short first stage and a crisp break. I like them both; but I was a little disappointed that the $85 RRA trigger was only marginally better than the $24 worth of Bushmaster mil-spec parts (trigger and hammer).
Although it is worth keeping in mind that RRA produces a consistent trigger. If I buy a new one, I know that the pull isn't going to be much different than the one I have.
With Bushmaster, its just luck of the draw on how well the different surfaces mate. Triggers can be anywhere from 5-9lbs and taking a hammer from a gun with a heinous trigger pull and matching it with a different trigger might improve it or it might make it worse. You kind of have to play with the parts to see.
Then again, you can buy 3 hammer/trigger sets from Bushmaster and still save money over the discounted price I paid for the RRA trigger.
Things I like about the RRA trigger: Good crisp two-stage trigger and I love the oversized trigger and hammer pins that reduce the problem of trigger pin walk to nil. I also like that it makes the disconnector a fixed part of the trigger - one less item to break/get lost/etc.
One thing that concerns me about it is that the hammer uses a different spring arrangement and a much lighter, narrower hammer. I am concerned with how well this hammer will do with military surplus ammo with hard primers. I think I may see some light strikes there; but I haven't had a chance to test that theory yet so I could easily be wrong. I haven't used any other brand of aftermarket trigger; but I've noted that most of them share the lighter hammer design so that may be an issue with other brands as well.
I'm not sure what relevance there is to a test done for military/tactical purposes of a military weapon, when we're talking about AR's used for personal pleasure.
Well, the quoted part from Pat Rogers made it clear he was talking about service rifles - not bench guns, varmint guns, what have you. If you don't feel the test is relevant to what we are discussing then why are we discussing it?