You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Pulled this from the closet
- Thread starter Hiprolllc
- Start date
Mike Irwin
Staff
According to The Standard Catalog, second edition, serial 146900 was in 1909, and serial 241703 was in 1915.
It would appear that it was made sometime in 1914 or 1915.
That serial number range makes it a Model 1905 Third Change.
It would appear that it was made sometime in 1914 or 1915.
That serial number range makes it a Model 1905 Third Change.
At the risk of the dreaded "thread drift...", I'm drawn to the blurb under the 4th Change in trying to determine the difference between a 3rd & 4th Change, and it says:
I recently bought a 4th Change (272xxx) for the very specific purpose of shooting because I no longer wanted to put my Grandfather's revolver (357xxx) through it, and this was my method of preserving the "important" one while still getting the "experience" of shooting it.
I run loads that are well below max for .38 Special.
It appears as though my replacement revolver is less "factory equipped" for shooting today, nearly 100 years after it's manufacture, than the revolver that it is standing in for. I've put 250 through it thus far, all to wonderful effect. I don't have a lot of money in to it and I don't think it has much "collector value" but I also don't care to destroy it.
There's nothing outward whatsoever that suggests it might not be "safe" for shooting -- should I be reading anything in to the fact that it pre-dates the heat treating of cylinders?
Is there any conclusion that an end-user (myself!) can take from this?"Changes from 3rd model are primarily internal, heat-treated cylinders began at serial number 316648."
I recently bought a 4th Change (272xxx) for the very specific purpose of shooting because I no longer wanted to put my Grandfather's revolver (357xxx) through it, and this was my method of preserving the "important" one while still getting the "experience" of shooting it.
I run loads that are well below max for .38 Special.
It appears as though my replacement revolver is less "factory equipped" for shooting today, nearly 100 years after it's manufacture, than the revolver that it is standing in for. I've put 250 through it thus far, all to wonderful effect. I don't have a lot of money in to it and I don't think it has much "collector value" but I also don't care to destroy it.
There's nothing outward whatsoever that suggests it might not be "safe" for shooting -- should I be reading anything in to the fact that it pre-dates the heat treating of cylinders?
Mike Irwin
Staff
So, you have no emotional attachment to the revolver you bought so that you're not shooting your Granddad's revolver.
It doesn't have a heat treated cylinder.
You shoot loads that are well below the SAAMI max load for .38 Special (non +P).
I really don't see the issue.
You bought a shooter, so shoot it.
It doesn't have a heat treated cylinder.
You shoot loads that are well below the SAAMI max load for .38 Special (non +P).
I really don't see the issue.
You bought a shooter, so shoot it.
The heat treatment of those S&W cylinders has less to do with the cylinders "blowing up" than with the bolt stop notches peening and allowing the cylinder to get out of alignment. S&W once put hardened steel shims into those notches, but that was an expensive proposition and it was cheaper and easier to just harden the whole cylinder. That also served to strengthen it and reduce wear in general, but the non-heat treated cylinder was more than adequately strong for the standard .38 Special.
Jim
Jim
Mike Irwin
Staff
'S&W once put hardened steel shims into those notches'
I think that they only did that on the Model 1896 Hand Ejector, and not the .38 M&P, correct?
I think that they only did that on the Model 1896 Hand Ejector, and not the .38 M&P, correct?
Excellent information, much thanks. And yes, exactly correct-- I bought it to shoot, shoot, shoot, so that I could "replicate" the old-school long action of my Grandfather's Hand Ejector, without adding the wear to the nickel finish of that particular revolver.
I wouldn't say I feel "guilty" for the price I paid, but I tell ya, I would have paid a lot more. I spent $275 on it (July 2013, not ten years ago) and the finish falls short of the revolver pictured in this thread, but not by a heap - but it makes my Grandfather's revolver look even better. Both are nickeled and six-inch.
The function and timing are 100% and it's a joy to shoot. Only 250 rounds through it thus far because I haven't built that light-spec .38 ammo in a while, been busy making other stuff. Once I get another pile of it crafted, it'll be back to making regular range trips.
It's not my "plan" to shoot this revolver to failure, destruction or parts breakage, but that is likely to be it's future. I will shoot and enjoy until it won't shoot, and I won't likely be chasing down parts to fix it if it gives up on me. It is 97 years old.
I wouldn't say I feel "guilty" for the price I paid, but I tell ya, I would have paid a lot more. I spent $275 on it (July 2013, not ten years ago) and the finish falls short of the revolver pictured in this thread, but not by a heap - but it makes my Grandfather's revolver look even better. Both are nickeled and six-inch.
The function and timing are 100% and it's a joy to shoot. Only 250 rounds through it thus far because I haven't built that light-spec .38 ammo in a while, been busy making other stuff. Once I get another pile of it crafted, it'll be back to making regular range trips.
It's not my "plan" to shoot this revolver to failure, destruction or parts breakage, but that is likely to be it's future. I will shoot and enjoy until it won't shoot, and I won't likely be chasing down parts to fix it if it gives up on me. It is 97 years old.
highpower3006
New member
The rule of thumb on the heat treated Smith's is; if it has the one line "Made In USA" on the right side of the frame, it has the heat treated cylinder and is safe with modern .38 special ammo. This does not mean that you can shoot +P ammo, just the standard .38 special loads.
Earlier, non-heat treated versions were blank in that area.
Earlier, non-heat treated versions were blank in that area.