There are some misconceptions on this thread that I would like to clear up. Forgive the long post, but I'll try to categorize them with minimal extra details.
Large bullet selection compared to just about anything else in the hogleg class. From 185gr to 405gr. Brass is not cheap, but similar to 10mm in availability and price. Factory-load-only folks can choose from a number of available loads for different purposes. But this is a reloader's cartridge, for sure, as it is nearly as idiot-proof as the 357, and about as flexible too. Of course, idiot can be defined at many levels of competence...
Things to watch out for:
45LC jacketed bullets are not normally designed to rotate at the speeds 454 is intended to achieve. The 225gr speer, for instance, literally disentigrates at 1800fps, before hitting the target.
The Taurus, especially, is designed for a .452 diameter bullet.
Most anything you shoot will produce enough recoil to require a crimp cannelure. The old trick of roll crimping over the shoulder of a 45ACP bullet should be avoided.
The cylinder is loose, and the cylinder throat is tight. Use only 454 brass, not 45LC, full-length size the brass, maintain precise trim lengths, and do not seat the bullets long.
Roll crimp them heavily. They will grow over time like rifle brass, unlike any cartridge I've seen. After 7 firings, they may develop splits, just toss them. Annealing is a waste, except for dedicated brass for ultralite loads. And even then, it is not worth doing if you are unsure of how (can create a dangerous/frustrating problem).
Here is why you don't pump the 45LC to 454 levels, and why annealing is a waste. The 454 was developed with a small primer pocket, but a large flashhole. That is so you can use stronger rifle primers to contain the pressure, and still get the fire to ignite a ball powder load. And by the time you reach 7 or 8 medium to hot loadings, where annealing seems helpful, you will have strethed the primer pockets from the pressure. I have some after 10 loads that you can prime with the pressure of your thumb. Considering the thicker web on the 454, how long do you think it will take to do this to a 45LC cartridge?
Don't shoot 45LC rounds from the taurus, especially not lead. This may be just fine in a 38/357 gun, but the cylinder throat has a hard ridge, not a gentle one like older wheelguns. This is true of all 3 models (Taurus, Ruger, FA). Especially on the taurus, the loose cylinder and tight throat with sharp edge causes blowback and debris so quickly that you will spend twice as long cleaning the cylinder as the barrel, and still may not be done. In addition, it causes jacket shedding more often than not. 45LC brass, .451 jacketed bullets and higher velocity will almost always spit copper, and this often causes action problems as well.
For 454lites or ultralites, lead with a gas check are best. The lower pressures don't cause the obturation you need for the "beartooth" style stuff. For powder in a light load, Unique is top dawg. It does not really care if you fill the case or not, what the temp is, and isn't even picky about magnum vs regular primers. A 255 over 10gr Unique makes for about 1000fps, roughly, which is a good 45LC load.
The 480 and 475 family is more expensive and less available, at least for now. Good calibers, but closer to wildcat at this point, sorta like the 454 was 15 years ago. The 44 mag and 45LC can't touch it in potential, and you can download if you want (I do for various reasons). There is now a lever action rifle for this cartridge too, but that's a different debate.
Aside from customs and one-offs, there are 4 wheelguns for this bad boy.
-> BFR. Heard iffy things about QC on these, and besides, if that's your platform, why not 444 or 450 magnum?
-> FA. If you like 19th century designs, this is the best of the 19th century that the 21st century has to offer. I have broken one. They are not magic. But they sure do look purty.
-> Ruger. Double action, 6 shots, and I hear the scope rings handle this cartridge fine. Probably the reason the FA is so pretty is because they wore out the ugly stick on the SRH, but some people wear that designation as a badge of honor. If you like the big ruger grips or the aftermarket grips that fit this platform, you should be happy. Porting would be a major improvement, but it should be about as reliable as a rock in the desert. Kind of like a Glock, you either like the SRH or you hate it. Decent pricetag.
-> Taurus. The lettering is really cheesy, which is a shame, because the lines are really clean and modern. The grip is much closer to a S&W, Dan Wesson custom, or a Colt Anaconda. This really takes some bite out of the cartridge. The factory porting works wonders as well, though I believe the grip has more to do with recoil reduction and controllability than people think. Double action, 5 shots, the trigger is a little stiff for competition, but IMO just about right for a field pistol. The scope mount looks ultra trick, but in reality it sucks. You get what you pay for with this one, and I have gotten more than my money out of it. It still serves me in IHMSA competition, and is still far more consistent and accurate than I am, standing, factory sights, at 50-200 meters. Then again, I can't hit that proverbial barn 2 out of 3 times. This is the design that should be merged with the FA quality.
260 gr Partitiongolds shot very well and ejected well no hangups still on the hot side, 250 gr winchester X shot the best in the ruger not as hot, the 300 gr Hornadys shot the best in the Puma. I reloaded using WW296/H110 using sm/rifle primers(Remington)Winchester brass using Hornady XTP 300/250 gr, I use a single stage Rockchucker seat/crimp in two stages and hand trickel every load for performance and accuracy, I noticed Max loads are very hot
you guys have been a lot of help. after I pay off the Kahr MK40 I'm getting, I'm going to check out the Ruger SRH to see if I like it better than the Taurus.