Proper Mounting Techniques....
- Thread starter Dave McC
- Start date
If it works for you, Spectre, but....
A shooting position os one of dynamic tension. No muscles involved are relaxed, and the bringing up of the elbow of the shooting arm makes the cup and creates enough flexure that control and repeatability are easier.
As for Combloc stocks, they are shorter to work with half starved subjects wearing thick winter clothing. I recommend shorter stocks myself for colder weather...
A shooting position os one of dynamic tension. No muscles involved are relaxed, and the bringing up of the elbow of the shooting arm makes the cup and creates enough flexure that control and repeatability are easier.
As for Combloc stocks, they are shorter to work with half starved subjects wearing thick winter clothing. I recommend shorter stocks myself for colder weather...
I understand your point, and you definitely have more shooting experience than I.
For myself, it appears that a chicken-wing arm is likely to catch obstructions, and I personally am striving for eliminating as much tension as possible.
I am not half starved! In fact, I'm aiming on dropping back down to 142...
For myself, it appears that a chicken-wing arm is likely to catch obstructions, and I personally am striving for eliminating as much tension as possible.
I am not half starved! In fact, I'm aiming on dropping back down to 142...
Will Beararms
New member
This may not be in line with conventional wisdom but I have found that as long as I naturally point and shoot on instinct with no attention to form, birds die.
It's when I start looking as stances in books, listening to others or getting on the web to look at the latest method that the birds keep flying.
I think everyone is different. Do what kills birds as long as it safe. If you keep missing, change your technique until you get it right.
I keep both eyes open and just wisk the shotgun up to my shoulder from the ready position and nature takes over after that.
It's like driving a car. If you thought about every movement, you would not get put of the driveway.
It's when I start looking as stances in books, listening to others or getting on the web to look at the latest method that the birds keep flying.
I think everyone is different. Do what kills birds as long as it safe. If you keep missing, change your technique until you get it right.
I keep both eyes open and just wisk the shotgun up to my shoulder from the ready position and nature takes over after that.
It's like driving a car. If you thought about every movement, you would not get put of the driveway.
WIll, from your postings I gather you have shot a good amount. Whatever you do works for you. Here we're talking about tyros. Best to start them like this, and groove the form in until it's "instinctive".
And, I too can point and shoot like the Almighty smiting wiht a lightning bolt, but it took a while to get there.
And, I too can point and shoot like the Almighty smiting wiht a lightning bolt, but it took a while to get there.
Will Beararms
New member
Here Here
Good fit is essential, Youngun. The Brits have this down to a science, using 1/32" increments, and lots of them shoot very, very well. I'm not sure we have to go to those lengths. Here's a rough and goodenough guide.
Different parameters apply for "Serious" and the myriad forms of recreational shotgunning. I'm going for a GP fit here. Do this with a weapon KNOWN TO BE EMPTY, for obvious reasons.
First, forget that stuff about if the butt is in your elbow and your trigger finger reaches the trigger. Like most myths, it's true sometimes.If you're 5'9", 160 lbs with a 33" shirt sleeve, it's probably true.
Mount the shotgun and hold your position. If there's room for two or three fingers between your nose and the base of your strong side thumb, the length is close.If not, adjust it and try a few fast mounts to make sure.
Next, focus on a fixed point, like where the ceiling and two walls meet in the corner of the room. Close your eyes, and mount the shotgun. Open your eyes. If the shotgun is pointed precisely where you were focussed, it fits. If not, make it so.
One of the nice thing about repeaters over doubles and singles is that most can be adjusted very well by shimming between the receiver and stock. People use toothpicks, pieces of old hulls, cut up credit cards, or my favorite because it's infinitely adjustable, folded aluminum foil. If the pattern's low, add a shim at the bottom of the receiver,etc.
Next, focus on the point again and see if you're lokking right down the bbl. On a GP shotgun, you should be "Flat" down the rib, not seeing much if any rib, just the bead(s). If there's two beads, they should be superposed, or stacked in a figure 8. If you do see some rib, it may shoot a bit high for you. I like them this way. Some don't.
Now, set up your patterning board. Use a 4'X4' piece of paper with an aiming point in the center. Using your ammo of choice, take a few shots and see where the major impact area is. If it's centered or a bit high, Huzzah! You're almost done.
Next, put up a new piece of paper and using a fast mount/fire, see if the POI changes. If so, move things around until you're centered.
For "Serious" use,or for use in cold conditions, the stock's better off if it's a bit short, rather than long. Otherwise, you're all set.
Finally, if this is not helpful, seek the help of a good fitter. Some folks just can't do this themselves, tho most can.
HTH....
Different parameters apply for "Serious" and the myriad forms of recreational shotgunning. I'm going for a GP fit here. Do this with a weapon KNOWN TO BE EMPTY, for obvious reasons.
First, forget that stuff about if the butt is in your elbow and your trigger finger reaches the trigger. Like most myths, it's true sometimes.If you're 5'9", 160 lbs with a 33" shirt sleeve, it's probably true.
Mount the shotgun and hold your position. If there's room for two or three fingers between your nose and the base of your strong side thumb, the length is close.If not, adjust it and try a few fast mounts to make sure.
Next, focus on a fixed point, like where the ceiling and two walls meet in the corner of the room. Close your eyes, and mount the shotgun. Open your eyes. If the shotgun is pointed precisely where you were focussed, it fits. If not, make it so.
One of the nice thing about repeaters over doubles and singles is that most can be adjusted very well by shimming between the receiver and stock. People use toothpicks, pieces of old hulls, cut up credit cards, or my favorite because it's infinitely adjustable, folded aluminum foil. If the pattern's low, add a shim at the bottom of the receiver,etc.
Next, focus on the point again and see if you're lokking right down the bbl. On a GP shotgun, you should be "Flat" down the rib, not seeing much if any rib, just the bead(s). If there's two beads, they should be superposed, or stacked in a figure 8. If you do see some rib, it may shoot a bit high for you. I like them this way. Some don't.
Now, set up your patterning board. Use a 4'X4' piece of paper with an aiming point in the center. Using your ammo of choice, take a few shots and see where the major impact area is. If it's centered or a bit high, Huzzah! You're almost done.
Next, put up a new piece of paper and using a fast mount/fire, see if the POI changes. If so, move things around until you're centered.
For "Serious" use,or for use in cold conditions, the stock's better off if it's a bit short, rather than long. Otherwise, you're all set.
Finally, if this is not helpful, seek the help of a good fitter. Some folks just can't do this themselves, tho most can.
HTH....
fit
Well, as regards:
-Length at midpoint, heel and toe (this covers the pitch measurement too),
-Drop at comb and heel,
-Cast at comb, heel, and toe
And Dave's:
Good fit is essential, Youngun. The Brits have this down to a science, using 1/32" increments, and lots of them shoot very, very well. I'm not sure we have to go to those lengths.
...I guess my Q is how critical is a superfit.
I guess the point is simply to be able to hit what your aiming at, and practice enough to do it consistently.
I like the idea of a tailored stock, but I wonder how much better off I would be. (or my wife, even more importantly.)
y
Well, as regards:
-Length at midpoint, heel and toe (this covers the pitch measurement too),
-Drop at comb and heel,
-Cast at comb, heel, and toe
And Dave's:
Good fit is essential, Youngun. The Brits have this down to a science, using 1/32" increments, and lots of them shoot very, very well. I'm not sure we have to go to those lengths.
...I guess my Q is how critical is a superfit.
I guess the point is simply to be able to hit what your aiming at, and practice enough to do it consistently.
I like the idea of a tailored stock, but I wonder how much better off I would be. (or my wife, even more importantly.)
y