Primer kill test , need suggestions ;-)

Sure. But that's where 99% of people will have primers they need dead. Doesn't do any good if it works in a test tube and not application. There's various ways to break the surface tension. Fwiw just deprime them and move on. But I get wanting to know what will render then inert, at least for depriming.
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Well... Then, according to that statistic, 99% of people are afraid to decap a live primer.
I am not.
I do not need to endeaden primers. They're fine in any state of salvageability - even if that level of salvageability is "knock it out and toss it in the trash".

Metal God's experiment will still be valid - even if only viewed as a "starting point" by some people - because knowing what DOES render a primer inert (temporarily or permanently) is good knowledge to have.
From there, one can move on to what works in primed cases.

But if you start with primed cases and don't have a way to insure that the solution/chemical/liquid is actually in the primer cups, it is a waste of time and an invalid experiment.
 
Primers in primed cases are often untouched by water and water-based solutions, since surface tension creates a bubble over the flash hole and protects the primer.

This is one of the reasons why I think the originally proposed test method would be more productive than the more common "squirt stuff in a primed case and see if it'll still go bang."
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Penetrating fluids by design have very little surface tension. I don't see surface tension being a problem in the test. But, even if it did happen to keep some of the test fluids from reaching the primer, that would hinder the fluid's ability to "kill" a primer and that's good info to have.
 
Penetrating fluids by design have very little surface tension. I don't see surface tension being a problem in the test. But, even if it did happen to keep some of the test fluids from reaching the primer, that would hinder the fluid's ability to "kill" a primer and that's good info to have.
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That's Bubba science.

Testing with the desired circumstances and a confirmation bias, rather than a method that isolates or eliminates variables, in order to find the truth.
 
Well they sent the wrong Liquid Wrench so I’ll be getting to this a little later then I hoped . I’ve not been feeling well either so I likely wouldn’t have started yet .
 
After I put a dent in the middle of my primers, they won't go bang again. I think they are only designed to go bang once?

Anyways, seems like a waste of primers, time, money and effort.

YMMV

RJ
 
It would be interesting to take a set of primers and fluids to wet the rivers, then if they work after drying out. I am dubious about water and some other fluids "killing" a primer after it drys out. I've set off primers stored in a Texas Gulf coast garage for several years, then stored indoors for 15 plus years, none of them didn't go bang.
 
Good topic. I am of the mind that a primer is a hard thing to kill. I have seen them go off after soaking in a jar of motor oil.
 
Right. Some seem to be pretty impervious while others die easily. The object of the exercise is to see if some reliable way to kill them is available. Other than setting them off, though, I'm not sure there is a single choice of solvent that will get them all. Federal, for example, with the heavy lacquer, might need to go into liquid paint stripper first to remove the sealant and then go into the water. The problem is, whatever will dissolve the sealant is likely to be flammable and have explosive vapors. Maybe the citrus-based stripper would work? Don't know.

Maybe the easy way out is to email all the makers and ask them what will render their primers inert. They must do something with their rejects, though it could involve heat and explosion.
 
I'm thinking just about any liquid will evaporate and the primer will go bang. A liquid that will completely permeate the priming compound carrying a substance that will chemically render the primer inert, like an "oil based" liquid?

Not sure why one needs to render primers inert, but if it blows your skirt up, get 'er done!!!!

Anyways, no offense meant.

RJ
 
OK the correct liquid wrench came in so I think I'm ready

I have 9 products I plan to test and 4 different primers I'll post up the list and pics when I get started . However there is one thing I actually never considered until recently . I'm in a very urban area and although I have very good relations with my neighbors . I'll be firing off 180 primers at each test interval . I really don't see how the cops don't come . Anyone have any ideas of a small sound proof-ish set up that I can just put the gun in and discharge them in ?

I have 5gal buckets , small trash cans etc but those alone may not be enough ???

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180 primers each time :eek: I may need to rethink this , that's a lot . Maybe I drop one of the primers and a couple products that would be 105 at each interval .
 
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Sound Proof Box

Yeah. Make a sound proof box with foam in it to absorb the sound. Or, lock yourself in the bathroom (assuming you have not windows) and turn the fan on
 
One more. Find a cardboard box and cover it with blankets and coats. Then reach into the box and pull the trigger.
 
I pick up dropped ammo from the range to disassemble & there is almost nothing you can put primers in to totally kill the primers. I have had rounds that laid out & were so corroded I couldn't tell what they were & the primers are still hot. I have had .22LRs that were wet when I knocked the wet powder out of them & the primer ring still fired.

I put pulled primers in a metal can with a loose top & heat them until they all go off. It's like pop corn. LOL
 
Do an initial test of 12 hours to see what products last that long. Any solvent that disables the primer after 12 hours will be pointless to test at longer intervals.

A cardboard box with a towel in the bottom and a towel covering the opening of the box will muffle the sound pretty good. If the muzzle is shoved into the towel on the bottom it's about as loud as a snap. FWIW plan on throwing out the towel when done.
 
California may complicate or invalidate this, but...

Grab 4 similar size, slashed used car tires from any local tire shop. Most stores are happy to let you have or borrow them. (Though maybe not in California.)

Strap them together concentrically and cap/cover one end with something flexible, sound absorbent, and fireproof (or soaked in water before testing).
Fill the bottom of the tires with more sound absorbing material, if you so desire. Fireproof foam, wet wood chips, etc.

What you have there is a legal muzzle report attenuating device. (Even if the end was open, the ATF considers them fixed emplacements and not attachable to a firearm. Perfectly legal suppressor / not a suppressor.)
They're quite effective for actual shooting. I imagine it would still work quite well for primer pops, especially if you cover one end (or both?) with a wet wool blanket.


An example employing a steel drum around the tires:
https://billstclair.com/weaponsman.com/index.html%3Fp=16920
 
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