Powder Performance

Different powders are formulated for different applications.
Lets narrow this discussion to handgun ammo.
Fast powders , like bullseye, burn quickly and are used in target applications with lead bullets.

Medium powders , like Unique , work best in the mid range loads....not light target or super heavy magnum loads but the in between loads with lead or jacketed bullets.

Slow powders , like 2400 , are for heavy magnum loads with jacketed bullets .

This is much simplified and there are many powders that overlap and confuse.

Get a few good loading manuals, look at the bullets you would like to load, the velocity you wish to achieve and see what powders would be suitable. Make a list and then see what you can buy.
Not all the powders will be on dealers shelves....use whatever you can find.
We still have shortages around here. In the past any powder you wanted could be found....no longer...you have to buy what's available and use it....just make sure you have data to go with the powder. I've been forced to try about 6 new powders because my old powders weren't on the shelves ...You gotta load with the ones you can get .
Gary
 
Normally no, but I would if I were to use different bullet weights. I load for 308 and 30-06 with 150-180 gr bullets. The same powders work pretty well within those weights. If I were to ever go up to 200 gr or heavier bullets there are better options than my current preferred powders.
 
There are a huge variety of powders mostly with somewhat different characteristics: burning rate, density, size and shape of grains, and chemistry. Depending on the size and shape of your cartridge and the sectional density of your bullets, some range of similar powders might be suitable. e.g. medium to heavy hunting bullets in 7mm Rem Mag work well with IMR4350, 4831, 7828, RL-19, RL-22, H4350, H4831 etc. Probably, you could find a good load with any of those powders for 150SP. Probably IMR7828 and RL-22 might be best for 175BTSP. You would probably find IMR4350 or H4350 work best for 120SP but you could even get good performance with IMR4064 and lower recoil if that mattered because charges would be smaller.

If cost of shooting matters, usually one uses a faster powder so smaller charges will get the job done and you get more shots per pound. Sometimes but not always, one loses some accuracy that way. Often the most accurate powder will be the one that just fills the case under the bullet. Look for "load density" or "C" in the manuals. Filling the case means there will be the same ignition to charge behaviour no matter how the cartridge is jostled on loading. Filling the case means you have all the powder you can get in barring more compression that often gives highest velocity at reasonable pressures. Look for pressures and velocities listed in the manuals. A good powder to have is one that gives good velocities for a variety of weights of bullet while nearly filling the case. IMR4064, for instance, likes to fill .308 Win and give great accuracy for a variety of bullets.
 
a general rule of thumb for rifles is the lighter the bullet the faster the powder and small volume cartridges like the .223 are more sensitive to powder choice than larger volume calibers like the .308. See if what you have on hand is listed in the load manuals and see if it works. If it doesn't there are a million and one links to internet load recommendations for the most common cartridges
 
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MINSH101,

You didn't say what kind of firearm you are loading.

In rifles or other weapons with barrels of around a foot or more, there is a phenomenon in which a powder that is too slow for a bullet can send the light bullet scooting down the tube too early in the pressure build-up. The powder is most vigorously burning first near the flash hole, so powder nearer the front of the case is still just starting to light up when this occurs. As a result of the light bullet opening up the space in front of the case prematurely, the rest of the pressure buildup is mainly behind a plug of remaining powder at the shoulder and mouth of the case and sends that plug down the tube where it catches up to and collides with the base of the bullet as if it was an obstruction. As in the muzzleloading phenomenon called short seating, this can ring or bulge a barrel. Texas Gunsmith Charlie Sisk used to have some photos up on either THR or 24hr Campfire (I've forgotten which, but they are no longer there) of muzzles he'd blown off, IIRC, 338 Win Mags with a particularly bad load of this sort. It would take him ten to a dozen rounds before the muzzle gave way, but they looked like jagged torn metal afterward.

Unfortunately, since the pressure from these events is all local to a point a foot or more down the tube and not at the chamber, the standard SAAMI-type pressure measuring equipment does not show that it's happening. However, the event does send a transverse or traveling wave down the surface of the barrel, so it shows up as a faux chamber pressure reading on strain gauge instruments that are measuring over top of a chamber, even though the actual pressure event was further down the tube. I don't know of any other way to detect it but the strain gauges.

Here's an example of commercial ammunition creating the problem. Obviously, the manufacturer, using standard test equipment, did not see the problem or the load would not be OK'd. This is a strain gauge pressure measurement.

Reproduced with kind permission from Jim Ristow at shootingsoftware.com:

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Normal traces from the same source as above:

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In a handgun, the above is not normally a concern because the barrel is too short for it to happen in. The bullet getting out too soon just means more unburned and still-burning powder exiting the muzzle after it. As a result, the load is inefficient and the charge weight needed to reach maximum pressure with a slow powder is enough heavier that you wind up with increased muzzle blast, flash, and recoil (from ejecting the extra powder mass). So it's generally a bad choice for low-light shooting or for anyone recoil-sensitive.

As to choosing powder, generally speaking, consistent velocity means consistent ignition and pressure. If you go through data on Hodgdon's site you will note that actual pressures listed are generally below SAAMI spec (though I did find one exception I can't explain). They do not use the SAAMI MAP value the way ammunition manufacturers do, which is as a maximum average pressure (what MAP stands for), but rather use it as a hard pressure limit. The powders with the lowest maximum load pressure are the ones that exhibited the most pressure variation with their highest ten round value reaching the SAAMI MAP. Therefore, as Hodgdon's print manual explains, the loads listed with the highest pressures were the ones that performed most consistently and make a good choice for consistent performance. Note that with some cartridges, Hodgdon's data will mix measurements in CUP and psi. The MAP values for the two systems are different for any given cartridge. You want to compare the highest CUP value to other CUP values and the highest psi value to other psi values, only, if you use this selection criterion.

Another criterion you can employ is to look at velocities and the Hodgdon powder burn rate chart. You will generally find a range of powders with different burn rates that produce close to the same maximum load velocity. Picking the powder with the middle burn rate value from that group will tend to give you the best balance between peak pressure and recoil for those velocities.

Those strategies may be employed for either rifle or handgun cartridges. One other thing that cannot be predicted from published data is which powder will produce the best precision (smallest groups) with your gun. That often takes exploring more than one powder to learn. The reason is that even when velocities match, faster powders produce shorter barrel times than slow powders do, and rifles, in particular, often prefer a specific range of barrel times.
 

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For 222 Rem., 204 Ruger, 22-250 I settled on Benchmark a few years ago. The reasoning was if I bought 8 lb. Kegs, then shortages and chronic unobtainium would be less likely to mess up my shooting. Benchmark isn't the best for 222 but it meters good and is satisfactory. These guns are prairie dog shooters. I don't like wearing out guns trying new powders because my powder isn't ever on the shelf.

Hunting rifles are a big science fair project. Buying powder and different bullets and developing loads is a great past time in the winter and early spring. So the powder shelf has 15 or 20 jugs of powder, some of which just haven't cut it, some are good. Big money vortex.
 
I used to use a wide variety of powders from Clays to HS-6 for various handgun loads. Now I load just about everything with N340 or Unique (same speed), from target 45 auto loads to my serious 357 load. HP-38 is another good candidate for a 'one powder'.
 
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