Powder is Powder Right?

Two items.

It does not matter if you use Hornady data on a Sierra bullet as long as the bullet type and weights are close or the same and you are not pushing it (do pay attention to the case and primer used)

Their data is vey safe, as you will note that both actually cover a range of boat tail, flat based, ELD, lead tipped (sometimes as many as 5 or 8 types) under one load table and the weights vary some as well. I don't think more than 5 grains but they do vary.

That is not a license to run screaming through the streets, I can load 2 grains more in anything and be safe.

Always look at least two manuals if you can, if not, stay really low and work up.

B very caution when two disagree on top end, use the more conservative value and start below that.

Bottom end is ok to start with the lowest, I usually use the higher of the low as I have yet to get a good load at the very bottom
 
To take FITASC's point, if you pick a particular Hornady or Sierra bullet, you can email them to request just load data for that bullet and they will send you that at no charge. A manual is a combination of chapters or articles about loading and then a load data section, which usually takes up most of the space. Manuals are worth buying for that added information, but one good one like the Lyman will cover the basic information. Where multiple sources of information are good to look at is for the data, and there is a lot online. You can get PDF files of load data from Alliant, Western (Accurate and Ramshot brands) and Vihtavuori, and the Hodgdon link above will get you Hodgdon, IMR, and some Winchester data.

The bullet company manuals publish a mixture of powder brand information. The reason to look at several sources of data is they will not only use different bullets, but different cases and primers and different lots of powder. These different combinations can change the range of charge weights you want to use a few percent. If your bullet and case and primer combination are not listed, then you find the lowest starting charge listed and begin with that, increasing your test charge 2% for each shot while watching for pressure signs. Once you see any pressure sign, you go back a couple of steps. Unfortunately, few pressure signs are definitive and you need to learn to read them by practice to get a better sense of what is happening.

There is a series of cartridge-specific databooks, but you would do better to put your money into a more general manual like the Lyman book at first. The 50th edition is current, but you may find you can buy copies of the 49th edition for less money, and that will still be fine. Just don't go back too far, as load data eventually becomes obsolete due to changes and improvements.

Back to your original post, this NRA article on powder showed up in my email today and would be worth your time to read.
 
Word of caution. the data Hornady provides for 6.5x55 is quite a bit different than Nosler. Hornady used the 96 Mauser to develop their load, Nosler used a modern action and barrel. Would have liked to have had Hornady use both the 96 Mauser nd a modern rifle, quite a bit of difference in data for both of them. My 6.5x55 is a mod 70 and I use Nosler data. Do not use if if you don't have a modern rifle.
 
No, powder isn't powder and that's why they have different powders. They all differ in their burn rates and where's there's similar burn rates you have cleaner burning (aka less visible smoke). The basic unscientific mean of these is in recoil. This is also known as 'jerk' (aka change in velocity). Please please please study up on powders before you load anything!
 
Decide on a bullet weight and manufacturer. Once you start looking at the load manuals you'll find dozens of powders that are acceptable. You could spend a fortune buying different powders and trying different combinations before finding the best one for your rifle. Even though all will work, some have proven to work better than others. In many cases MUCH better.

But there is no reason to reinvent the wheel. Lots of others have tried those combo and asking for specific recommendations is a good idea. If a specific powder seems to be working well for a lot of others chances are good it'll work well for you. This will help you narrow things down considerably.

I wouldn't blindly trust anyone's recommendations without verifying it in a load manual. And just because someone else had good results with a max charge of 47 gr doesn't mean you start at 47 gr. Find that load in a manual. Start on the low end and work up to the level that safely gives you the speed and accuracy you want.
 
You are inquiring about load data correct?
correct. So its called reloading data not a reloading manual? "i figure if i am going to learn this i might as well learn the correct terms."
Click to expand...

Reloading data is the information contained in a reloading manual. As far as your original question about various powers....perhaps you could clarify a little more. If your seriously asking if all powders are basically the same then....STOP! Gain some knowledge first before you blow yourself up. If your asking if the different powders listed for a specific caliber and bullet weight and shape are basically the same, then the answer is yes, much more so than just any random powder but will still exhibit differences. Some powders may leave your gun more dirty, some have a more narrow operating range.
Like many others here, my advice is to buy a manual and follow the exact load components and starting load suggestions.
 
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