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Powder and Primers
- Thread starter USAF Ret
- Start date
Any Small Rifle Primer works (I don't follow all the names, I assume they are small rifle). So yes, you can substitute Fiachi or any other small rifle primer.
The only aspect to be careful with is if you are at the high end of the load.
Different mfg primers have a different affect on pressure. Its not huge but it is (or can be there)
So, back off a high end load. Or if the powder you are using has a narrow load range.
Personally my loads range from really low (7.5 Swiss) to about half way between medium and max (6.5 Lapua). The low load I would do nothing for.
The Lapua as its not pushing max load, I would also do nothing with, I would load some test rounds (10-15, see where they are velocity wise and accuracy wise (assuming I don't have any pressure indicators). If I have any pressure indicators I would back off half a grain. Pull the bullets and test again.
I have run comparison test in large rifle in 40-06 between CCI and Remington and I see no statistical difference in velocity. Velocity is your hallmark for pressure. You are not going to increase velocity unless the pressure goes up.
It does help to have a Chrono though you can also look for pressure signs in case rub (back of Rim) sticky bolt and most unreliable but always worth a look at the primer (pierced, cratered with a rim)
I use all the indicators and any one raising its head is enough to make me drop back.
The only aspect to be careful with is if you are at the high end of the load.
Different mfg primers have a different affect on pressure. Its not huge but it is (or can be there)
So, back off a high end load. Or if the powder you are using has a narrow load range.
Personally my loads range from really low (7.5 Swiss) to about half way between medium and max (6.5 Lapua). The low load I would do nothing for.
The Lapua as its not pushing max load, I would also do nothing with, I would load some test rounds (10-15, see where they are velocity wise and accuracy wise (assuming I don't have any pressure indicators). If I have any pressure indicators I would back off half a grain. Pull the bullets and test again.
I have run comparison test in large rifle in 40-06 between CCI and Remington and I see no statistical difference in velocity. Velocity is your hallmark for pressure. You are not going to increase velocity unless the pressure goes up.
It does help to have a Chrono though you can also look for pressure signs in case rub (back of Rim) sticky bolt and most unreliable but always worth a look at the primer (pierced, cratered with a rim)
I use all the indicators and any one raising its head is enough to make me drop back.
Thank you for the information. I ordered 1500 of the small rifle primers. Everyone said start with one caliber to get your feet wet, so it is the 6.5 Grendel. I will definitely start with the minimum loads. I do need to get a chronograph. I can get that later as I still need to get the reloading table and get my office set up and rearranged. The powders I have to start with are Benchmark and H335. I have some 100 grain partition, 120 grain partition and 125 grain Ballistic tip.Any Small Rifle Primer works (I don't follow all the names, I assume they are small rifle). So yes, you can substitute Fiachi or any other small rifle primer.
The only aspect to be careful with is if you are at the high end of the load.
Different mfg primers have a different affect on pressure. Its not huge but it is (or can be there)
So, back off a high end load. Or if the powder you are using has a narrow load range.
Personally my loads range from really low (7.5 Swiss) to about half way between medium and max (6.5 Lapua). The low load I would do nothing for.
The Lapua as its not pushing max load, I would also do nothing with, I would load some test rounds (10-15, see where they are velocity wise and accuracy wise (assuming I don't have any pressure indicators). If I have any pressure indicators I would back off half a grain. Pull the bullets and test again.
I have run comparison test in large rifle in 40-06 between CCI and Remington and I see no statistical difference in velocity. Velocity is your hallmark for pressure. You are not going to increase velocity unless the pressure goes up.
It does help to have a Chrono though you can also look for pressure signs in case rub (back of Rim) sticky bolt and most unreliable but always worth a look at the primer (pierced, cratered with a rim)
I use all the indicators and any one raising its head is enough to make me drop back.
2wheelwander
New member
Not mentioned here but I have something to add. This past year I saw "pneumatically removed" primers at a LGS. Supposed to be pulled from Military ammo. Small rifle.
This past weekend ran into a fellow Vet and we got to chatting. One of his MOS's was ammo inspection. I asked about pneumatically removed primers. He recommended not to touch them and would expect them to be unstable. They were pulled for a reason. He also claimed that military ammo not stored properly (temps/ moisture, etc.) that projectiles can begin to crystalize after about 18 years. Interesting stuff.
This past weekend ran into a fellow Vet and we got to chatting. One of his MOS's was ammo inspection. I asked about pneumatically removed primers. He recommended not to touch them and would expect them to be unstable. They were pulled for a reason. He also claimed that military ammo not stored properly (temps/ moisture, etc.) that projectiles can begin to crystalize after about 18 years. Interesting stuff.
PM sent to youUSAF Ret just found some of what your looking for on hodgdon reloading website
I hope you guys realize we have a whole separate sticky thread for reporting component availability at the top of this forum.
Notification much appreciated. Just subscribed.I hope you guys realize we have a whole separate sticky thread for reporting component availability at the top of this forum.