Pointers on getting most accuracy out of my Remington 700 classic in 300 Weatherby

Handloading will help in accuracy. Definitely get some stick and ball powder loads to see which the gun prefer then load a bunch up.
 
what I have done so far is free float barrel and accuraglassed the first couple of inches of action before recoil lug.
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Did you bed the area behind the lug? (relieve a space behind the lug and bed that area as part of this work).

If it's a wood stock, I would pillar bed it- and do the rest of the receiver as well. A partial bedding job, gives partial results in improved accuracy. Some is better than none, but why did you not do the entire receiver?
 
For what it is worth, some folks have reported that sporter weight barrels can benefit from a pressure point near the end of the stock. The factory Remington stock would be free floated except for that pressure point.
 
Wow my youngest son just bought and winchester model 70 stainless steel with pre64 action,26 "barrel and synthetic stock,we set up targets a 153 yards his factory 150 graners remington sciraccos grouped avoid 7/8 " his 189 grain nosler custom grade ammo with 180 grain accubonds was about .575 center to center of 3 shot group,my Weatherby 165 grain handloading ballistic tips with 7828 was around 3.32 : and my Remington 180 factory load was about 1.25"?! I SHOT both and I got those groups so what gives?
 
As has been stated, weatherby chamberlngs have a lot of freebore. From what I've heard, boat tail bullets can be more sensitive to freebore (and any defects the muzzle crown might exhibit) than flat based bullets. Simpler bullet designs are often more accurate, so I'd try a conventional cup and core flat base bullet (SSA suggested this too). It's my experience that in finicky rifles bullet to bore bearing surface is your friend (again flat base soft points are easier to work with than boat tail vld type bullets). Additionally, in my (very limited) experience, cartridges with large case to bore ratios (such as your weatherby-I have a win mag) generally shoot much more accurately with heavy for caliber slugs. A case full of powder, 100 percent load density give or take a few, is generally beneficial with such large cases. I have not noticed any difference between match primers or plain primers. Hornady interlock, Speer hot cor, Sierra pro hunter. 180 grains minimum. Slow burning powder 7828 at the fastest, fill right up (find a powder that allows you to do this with safe pressure of course, I've heard good things about h1000 and retumbo, have had good experiences with imr 7828, 7977, and rl25 in my .300 win mag. Perhaps look into getting the muzzle professionally recrowned by a gunsmith.
 
Wow my youngest son just bought and winchester model 70 stainless steel with pre64 action,26 "barrel and synthetic stock,we set up targets a 153 yards his factory 150 graners remington sciraccos grouped avoid 7/8 " his 189 grain nosler custom grade ammo with 180 grain accubonds was about .575 center to center of 3 shot group,my Weatherby 165 grain handloading ballistic tips with 7828 was around 3.32 : and my Remington 180 factory load was about 1.25"?! I SHOT both and I got those groups so what gives?
 
What cartridge was your son's rifle chambered in? Plus his rifle might just fit you better and be easier for you to shoot well. I'd also tear down your reloads and start over if they are shooting 3"+.
 
i just wish i could get what I always heard about people getting sub moa groups and ragged 1 hole groups
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Sub MOA groups are a lot more common on the internet than in real life. Of those who do actually shoot them, very few do it with 300 Weatherbys. The long freebore is an obstacle to truly tiny groups, as is the recoil. A muzzle break would help, but if you do be SURE that you and everyone within earshot is wearing hearing protection, every single shot. And by within earshot I mean everyone in the same county.

IMO, the 300 Weatherby is strictly for hunting BIG game and as such I'd be quite satisfied with 1.25" groups with a good tough hunting bullet. Using a more accurate bullet might shrink the group size some, but IMO such an exercise would be pointless. By the time you get done fiddling the barrel will be burned out and you'll have a more accurate load with an otherwise useless bullet.

If I wanted to shoot tiny clusters off the bench I'd get something smaller, like a 308 or better still, a 222 Rem.
 
Not every 700 shoots sub MOA groups, but almost all of them can. I would experiment with bullets and seating depth first. After that i would worry about powder type and charge. My rifles seem to shoot best a a grain or two below max. I know a lot of folks like their bullets seated right up to but not quite touching the lands. I have always loaded my bullets to be about 0.05" short of the lands. Different barrels like different bullets and powders. As far as a muzzle brake I wouldn't do it. Buy a slip on Limbsaver recoil pad for shooting from the bench the PAST recoil thingy's are nice too. You can buy both for about $60 well worth it. I had one sewn into my cheap shooting vest for about $20. We (my sons and I) own 270 Wins in 700, a 270 Weatherby Mark V, a Rem XCR II in 375 Weatherby, a M70 Classic in 416 Rem and a CZ 550 in 500 Jeffery. All of them shoot sub MOA except the 270 Weatherby so far (1 1/4") at 100 yards and I haven't started handloading for it yet, just been shooting the cheap Weatherby 130g spire points.

As far as recoil goes I start out with the 500 Jeffery, after that, nothing seems to kick much
 
My sons model 70 is a Remington Ultramag so iam not a floncher ,his lighter barrel out shot shot my heavier 300 weatherby 1st try with Noslee custom 180 accubonds woth no tampering and i have tried factory ammo and hand loads powsers from Imr 4831 and lengths from 3.5460 to 3.650 all shoot the same serria s noslers barnes nothing groups in my 300 weatherby iam thinking i have worn ther barrel out ?I have had it since 1990 but i never got it to shoot well even when new.I gues iam frustrated because my sons Ultramag right out the box my 1st try out shot everything i tried in my Bee.
 
One thing should be mentioned: A 1 1/2" GROUP AT 100 YARDS MEANS THAT EVERY ROUND WILL HIT WITHIN 3/4" OF THE GROUP CENTER.

Not only that, but 66% will hit about 1/2" of group center. Since there are no bullseyes on animals, a rifle that groups 3" at 100 yards is adequate to kill most deer-sized animals or larger.

I'm guilty of wanting every hunting rifle to hit a dime at 200 yards, but that level of accuracy is not necessary. It's much more important to keep barrels free-floated at least 1/16", so sling pressure or different rests won't tend to throw shots off.
 
Hi sorry i forgot to mention my sons new model 70 with pre '64 action all stainles is chambered for the Remingtin 300 ultra mag,i guess i am just frustrated because his with our 1st shooting session using factory ammo was dead on and shot the center out of the shoot nc target at 100 yards .i have tried
Mdifferent loads and powders combos from inr 4831 to reloader 22 and rl25 right now iam using 78828 ssc,i have tried different seating lengths .Could it be that i have actually shot the barrel out?I bought back in 1990 ,but it has never grouped spectacular?
 
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Since you're handloading you can make up some of that freebore by seating your bullets out farther. Just need to make sure the rifle will still feed and extract entire cartridges. I've had the best luck with Sierra bullets for accuracy , your 300 should shoot 165 grain bullets just fine including boattails. The Weatherby barrels are light so you need to let the rifle cool between groups. I suggest bringing another rifle along and alternating. Good luck!
 
Thanks Chuckscap,i have tried i never went oast 3.560 because i was afraid if i used up all the dreebore i would get pressure spikes what do you think?
 
The way I measure it is put a bullet (not a cartridge) all the way into the chamber until it touches the lands by pushing on it gently with a dowel and then
inserting a cleaning rod and marking it (takes two hands lol). Then I make a dummy cartridge and seat it out until it does the same then back it out 0.10" which is plenty of freebore. I have a Mark V in 270 Weatherby and it shoots .5 MOA with Sierra 150g GameKings. I hunt with 150g Partitions but it still shoots sub MOA with them. Good luck!
 
Thanks what i did and i probably did it wrong,was i drilled and threaded where the primer was on a properly sized shell 1/4 by 24 tpi all thread bolt and smoked a bullet ,i then theeaded the bolt untill the bullets ogive 1st caught rifling and then went bach.020 and seated the first
batch there .
 
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Finally .33" group at 100yards

Went with my youngest son again to range and tried sighting his new mounted Osprey 6x24x50mm on his Winchester stainless classic and we could not get it to group at 25 yards ,i believe the issue is the scope everything was snug ,recoil lug scope mounts .but thanks to some feed back from members here i changed my 3.660"col and my first 3 shot group at 100 yards was 2 bullets in 1 hole and the 3rd was almost in the same hole i never had agroup this good from my remington 700 in .300 Weatherby riffle,i quit ther and didnt shoot anymore.
 
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chuckscap
The way I measure it is put a bullet (not a cartridge) all the way into the chamber until it touches the lands by pushing on it gently with a dowel and then inserting a cleaning rod and marking it (takes two hands lol). Then I make a dummy cartridge and seat it out until it does the same then back it out 0.10" which is plenty of freebore. ...
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I think you missed a step. Wouldn't you measure the distance from muzzle/crown to bolt-face afterwards, subtracting one from the other to get your OAL? Then with a belted magnum like 300WBY you have to assume you have healthy head space and subtract that too.
-SS-
 
Oh i almost forgot

I finally was able to track down some Federal 215 primers,wbi h i never used ,before becausebno lgs had them i also know that Weatherby loads call out specifically for the 215.Do you think this will make a difference in accuracy?
 
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