Plated vs Jacketed

There iare already a sighting systems like that. Sight determines target range, wind, angle off horizontal and inertial sensors detects how fast you are moving the rifle to follow the target. After the computer solves the ballistics, a red dot appears in the scope to show where the bullet will impact. You adjust your hold to get the impact dot over the target and press the trigger.

I'm pretty sure it won't matter to the computer whether you are using a jacketed or a plated bullet, as long as your BCs are correct.
 
Unclenick said:
There iare already a sighting systems like that. Sight determines target range, wind, angle off horizontal and inertial sensors detects how fast you are moving the rifle to follow the target. After the computer solves the ballistics, a red dot appears in the scope to show where the bullet will impact. You adjust your hold to get the impact dot over the target and press the trigger.

I'm pretty sure it won't matter to the computer whether you are using a jacketed or a plated bullet, as long as your BCs are correct.
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That's similar to the electronic gun sight on fighter jets. We started using them during Korean war.

Perhaps it can go even further. The servo system even traverses the gun. When the operator greenlights the shot, it ignites the primer, either mechanically or electrically.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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Its also amazing how shooting 3 FMJs will almost completely clean out any lead fouling after 1 range session of shooting cast lead. Notice I said 1 range session not a whole season.

And it does, my previous range session with my SA Range officer I shot exactly 200 ROund nose lead ball and cleaned the barrel and I had typical lead fouling. mind you these were light loads using 230 grain bullets and 4 grains of Bullseye powder.

The following week, I shot another 200 rds same everything but I shot 3 fmj rounds at the end too see if it would clean the lead out, and I noticed almost zero lead fouling after clean up.

The next experiment I wanted to run was to season the pistol barrel with EWL slip 2000 and see if it will completely eliminate the leading in the barrel.
 
akinswi said:
Its also amazing how shooting 3 FMJs will almost completely clean out any lead fouling after 1 range session of shooting cast lead. Notice I said 1 range session not a whole season.

And it does, my previous range session with my SA Range officer I shot exactly 200 ROund nose lead ball and cleaned the barrel and I had typical lead fouling. mind you these were light loads using 230 grain bullets and 4 grains of Bullseye powder.

The following week, I shot another 200 rds same everything but I shot 3 fmj rounds at the end too see if it would clean the lead out, and I noticed almost zero lead fouling after clean up.

The next experiment I wanted to run was to season the pistol barrel with EWL slip 2000 and see if it will completely eliminate the leading in the barrel.
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I have used slip 2000 ewl in conjunction with lead, albeit full power loads. Did not seem to help. Seasoning with frog lube paste is my next experiment.
 
Shadow,

Thats interesting I figured it would have helped at least a little. Did you soak the barrel for any length of time or did you just run a wet patch thru , followed by a dry patch?
 
akinswi said:
Shadow,

Thats interesting I figured it would have helped at least a little. Did you soak the barrel for any length of time or did you just run a wet patch thru , followed by a dry patch?
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I typically use a bore cleaner. Generally slip 2000 carbon killer for lead. Run dry patches. Then run an oiled patch and put it up. So i leave a light coat of oil in the bore. No dry patch after.

Frog lube paste your supposed to heat. Hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up and help it adhere to the metal. Kind of like seasoning cast iron your just not burning it on. Works great on my ar, just kinda a pain for the initial application. Or of you use a cleaner that strips it off.
 
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S&W recommends against shooting jacketed bullets through a leaded bore, reporting having received a number of guns badly damaged by the increased pressure it creates. Also, in my experience it doesn't really work. It burnishes the lead fouling into the bore surface which makes it look shiny and clean. Run a dry brush in and out and you can see the smooth look get dull from the brush putting scratches in the lead glazing.

I've had good luck with Sharpshoot'r NO-LEAD. It chemically converts the lead to a dark crumbly compound that patches out. Back in the '80s when I found a brush would roughen the smooth and clean-looking ironed-in lead, it was before the electrolytic cleaner (another good removal approach if done properly) and I used the old method of amalgamating lead with mercury to get it out. That converts lead to a crumbly compound that is easy to brush out, but the brushing creates a spray of tiny beads of Mercury flying off the brush bristles when you push it through, so it has the potential to turn your work area into what, by modern standards, would be considered a hazmat site.
 
No-lead works. In my case it turns grey silvery leading into white powdery substance, which seems to dissolve in solvent (boretech eliminator).

I also worry about the mist created by the brush exiting the muzzle. I always have some sort of catch. A plastic bag tied around the muzzle is the usual.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
tangolima said:
No-lead works. In my case it turns grey silvery leading into white powdery substance, which seems to dissolve in solvent (boretech eliminator).

I also worry about the mist created by the brush exiting the muzzle. I always have some sort of catch. A plastic bag tied around the muzzle is the usual.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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Boretech Eliminator is the only cleaning solvent I have now. Except Hoppes no 9 I just use it for fragrance when I clean
 
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