Pistolsmithin'

Ah, good stuff. I like it.


That must be really useful when you are constantly locking the slide back manually to clear a jam. :D

(Yes Dave, I'm pulling your leg.)
 
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I like it! That is one hard core take no prisoners no BS shooting iron.
 
We are going to change the appearance of this gun somewhat by serrating the front strap like a Gold Cup, and then doing a rough blast on the rounds and sending it out to have it Electroless Nickle plated on the lower end. The barrel bore has no leade so I am going to ream the chamber with my Clymer Finish Reamer to make it less sensitive to re loads and ammo that is not up to snuff, but that will shoot. Right now it has to be fed real good ammo and we want to make it a little more forgiving. I am pleased that the Colonel thinks enough of it now to make some cosmetic and function improvements. I am not happy with that trigger he furnished and will change it to one I can adjust for Prep (Take Up) and overtravel. I also have to make sure that we still have a 3lb trigger pull.
It does kind of say "Open for Business", doesn't it?
I just installed Nite Lights on his LW Colt Commander so he is not un-armed out there. Don Williams did it for us and did a beautiful job of machining. I was just the middle man here. I have to admit that they were so neat I am thinking about my LW Commander and those little eyes that glow in the dark...................................oh well, maybe when the money comes................... This work on the gunfighter gun is all Pro Bono. He is a Friend of the Family. Thanks for the nice comments. That is my payday now.
 
change it to one I can adjust for Prep (Take Up) and overtravel
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Dave,
For my future reference, are there any triggers other than the McCormick and Dlask that you can adjust for prep? Also, do you know if anyone has ever drilled and tapped the frame for a setscrew to adjust prep?
thanks,
XB
 
To answer the question, Yes and No. Teddy (Actions by T) installs a set screw in triggers sometimes both ways and does a very good job of it. I used to cut a flap in the stirrup up in the curved area by the magazine catch and bend it to suit my tastes for prep. I used a lot of different triggers through the years and now like the CMC trigger group for our Online 1911's.
There is no where in the frame to put a screw that I can think of. The stirrup is up against the magazine catch up front and that limits the travel both ways. The sear spring keeps it pressed forward when at rest and the magazine catch stops it when it goes back regardless of any overtravel device.
I have 6 Speed Triggers that have stirrups that look like the CMC stirrups. I really don't know who made them but I sure like them. There is a nice picture of them in the previous issue of American Handgunner in Alex Hamilton's column.
 
The trigger STIRRUP does not press against the mag catch. The trigger shoe does and if it has a stop screw, the screw will hit the mag catch if adjusted correctly.
You CAN put a set screw on either side of the frame to adjust "prep"/take up. On some pistols, because of tolerance stack up of the various parts, zero take up wil result in the hammer half cock notch not engaging.
Nowlin also makes a trigger with a tab for adjusting take up.
 
Sorry. You are right about the triggers with overtravel screws, of course. The stirrup does sit above the magazine catch and the shoe would hit the catch. I was visualizing the area in the frame that the trigger rides in without the mag catch installed. How silly of me. I am glad you caught that detail. Where on the frame do you put these screws? That is a very interesting concept. I have never seen that done before on a 1911. Eager minds want to know. Perhaps a picture of that process? You must be a very talented smith to do that kind of work!
 
Where on the frame do you put these screws?
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Seems like you could put them on either side of the trigger shoe so they would contact the trigger bow where it angles to merge behind the shoe. The area where a contour cut was added between the 1911 and 1911A1.
 
Exactly, Handy.
Dave, I've been building guns for local IPSC( and now IDPA) shooters and doing repairs/tuning for 17 years. I've run into my share of head scratchers over the years and I learn something new nearly every time I de-bug a 1911. It's kind of funny when a customer brings in a pistol I built/worked on 10-12 years ago, I take it apart and see something that makes me think "What the hell was I thinking when I did that!!".
Keep up the good work.
 
Amen Brandx, I just cut a comp off of a race gun that I built a long time ago and the beavertail is Butt Ugly.
I know what we could do, but I know what I won't do. Don Williams and I agree that it could be done by angling a screw in right in the frame by the finger cuts up front and it would be ugly, but it would work. The question in my mind is? Why? I am old and lazy and have been that way ever since I can remember. I will use the stirrups we have available now, thank you. I used to silver soder on a piece of shim on the back of the stirrup. Remember that one? Yuk! We are very lucky to have the aftermarket parts we have today! Nice to have you here playing with us. I am still in the learning stage as you may have noticed. Romulus is teaching me to spell!
 
I can read readin' and write writin', but I can't read writin'. I did edit it. "I wish I had of kissed the SOB!" "Georgie Patton: 1943"
 
Actually it doesn't come out that ugly. Use a 4-40 allen set screw short enough to sit flush or slightly below the surface.Why do it? Because I can and it does make it easy to adjust take up to exactly where I want it. I have one of the silver soldered triggers in my parts bin. It's a very early short/steel, chrome plated, no less.
 
That's exactly what I am talking about brandx. It seems to me if it were done well, it would be no uglier than a screw on adjustable sights, and the benefit would be that you could adjust pretravel to exactly what you wanted with no trial and error. It also seems as if you would need only one set screw.
Is that your experience?
 
One screw works fine. You can put it on either side, makes no difference. Dave has a point ,too, tabs on the trigger bow don't leave any holes in the frame. I wouldn't do it to a pistol I had plans to sell.
 
STI makes a single stack trigger with the pretravel tabs. The set screw works very well for those with machining capabilities. In the past set screws were installed in the mainspring housing to give one the capability to adjust the trigger pull weight.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
Hunter Customs,

STI makes a single stack trigger with the pretravel tabs.
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Brownell's hosed me when I tried to order one for my Delta Elite. I have them in three of my other guns, and am impressed with their quality, but was distressed by Brownell's claim that they had been discontinued. (They're still listed on STI's site.) I was curious about the Dlask unit, as I've used other parts from them before and was quite pleased with their execution.
 
Tamara,
The last word I received from Brownell's is the same answer you received they are no longer available. So I did a little looking around they are available, just stocked five more in the shops parts bin yesterday.
Excellent triggers the best I've ever used.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
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