madcratebuilder
New member
denster said:
STOP THAT!
I just got my AR10 build paid off, I want to see at least one "balance due zero" statement before I charge into things.
Pietta Quality Variances
- Thread starter CameronP
- Start date
STOP THAT!
I just got my AR10 build paid off, I want to see at least one "balance due zero" statement before I charge into things.
MCRB. That "balance due zero" can cause a shock to the system that can induce tremors and hypertension wich will require expensive medical attention. Wouldn't you rather spend the money on worthwhile things like guns, ammo etc. Rather than make some rich doctor richer. Makes sense to me
mike in nc
Inactive
"If you want a really nice one get the CCH 58 Remington with checkered grips."
Ok,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, so what exactly is a CCH 58 Remington???????????
also,,,, how do you quote?
thanks
Ok,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, so what exactly is a CCH 58 Remington???????????
also,,,, how do you quote?
thanks
mike in nc
Inactive
oh yeah, that clears it up, thanks
Fingers McGee
New member
Denster said:
Oh great, thanks alot Denster. Just what I need to do. Unfortunately, I'm tracking and bidding on 3 other guns right now that have the potential of making a substantial dent in the plastic. Besides, I still need a second Hickok, and SWMBO hasnt approved any new ones yet.
I know for a fact that different importers pay for and accept different levels of quality control for products. Cap&ballers especially.
Of course the ones I talked to say they get the best grade.
Someone gets the lower grade package for less money. Wonder who?
One thing for sure....the cap&ballers are an obsolete design and can take only so much. They aren't magnums. The use of heavy doses of Pyrodex(more vel. than black powder per volume and different pressure curve) and the likes of 777 powder (high energy powder for modern inlines)can stress the guns. Shooting normal loads as 22gr. FFFg in a Navy 36cal. or 26-30gr. FFFg in an Army 44 will let the guns fuction longer. Hot (hot for the cap&ballers) loads on a regular basis lessens the longevity of the guns.
Conicals on a regular basis stresses the guns too especially in the Colt types. That's why I suggest lead balls loaded in the brass cartridges.
Anyway......the lower grade quality control pieces make their way to our shores on a regular basis. The cap&ballers especially are made with softer steel. That's evident in the bolts peening into cylinders ect.ect.
If a modern cap&baller had steel or iron as hard as the originals they would cost double what they do. Modern steel better? Can be but isn't in the cap&ballers we get today. The metal is soft probably so it doesn't wear tooling as fast thus raising the cost of production.
Let someone tell me otherwise and I'd want to see their revolvers and bring to note the marks on the cylinders the bolts make if the stiffness of the bolt spring isn't lessened....bring to note the marks on the wedges(an example would be a Belgian Centaure made Centennial Army 1860 revolvers wedge that can be hit and not marked up unless it's actually abused and the cylinders that take better the very stiff bolt springs in the guns) of the Italian guns.
Give me a Cap&baller fit well and made of actual ordanance grade steel and I'd pay the price for it. I'd have less cap&ballers but they would have the same parts in them after I was long gone and the next generation had the guns. The Ruger Old Army revs can attest to that. They are made of good steel hardened and tempered properly. The Italian guns? Made to be inexpensive and it shows in the materials and the quality control.
Just my opinion that's all.
Of course the ones I talked to say they get the best grade.
Someone gets the lower grade package for less money. Wonder who?
One thing for sure....the cap&ballers are an obsolete design and can take only so much. They aren't magnums. The use of heavy doses of Pyrodex(more vel. than black powder per volume and different pressure curve) and the likes of 777 powder (high energy powder for modern inlines)can stress the guns. Shooting normal loads as 22gr. FFFg in a Navy 36cal. or 26-30gr. FFFg in an Army 44 will let the guns fuction longer. Hot (hot for the cap&ballers) loads on a regular basis lessens the longevity of the guns.
Conicals on a regular basis stresses the guns too especially in the Colt types. That's why I suggest lead balls loaded in the brass cartridges.
Anyway......the lower grade quality control pieces make their way to our shores on a regular basis. The cap&ballers especially are made with softer steel. That's evident in the bolts peening into cylinders ect.ect.
If a modern cap&baller had steel or iron as hard as the originals they would cost double what they do. Modern steel better? Can be but isn't in the cap&ballers we get today. The metal is soft probably so it doesn't wear tooling as fast thus raising the cost of production.
Let someone tell me otherwise and I'd want to see their revolvers and bring to note the marks on the cylinders the bolts make if the stiffness of the bolt spring isn't lessened....bring to note the marks on the wedges(an example would be a Belgian Centaure made Centennial Army 1860 revolvers wedge that can be hit and not marked up unless it's actually abused and the cylinders that take better the very stiff bolt springs in the guns) of the Italian guns.
Give me a Cap&baller fit well and made of actual ordanance grade steel and I'd pay the price for it. I'd have less cap&ballers but they would have the same parts in them after I was long gone and the next generation had the guns. The Ruger Old Army revs can attest to that. They are made of good steel hardened and tempered properly. The Italian guns? Made to be inexpensive and it shows in the materials and the quality control.
Just my opinion that's all.
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Uberti vs Pietta 1851 Colt Navy Replicas
Here's one for you... What's wrong in this picture? The owner noticed that his Uberti 1851 Colt Navy revolver wouldn't half-cock after he reassembled it. So he opened it up and noted a small problem.
The Pietta Replica didn't have the same problem. Because it hadn't been disassembled yet.
Since he also had disassembled a Pietta Replica of a 1851 Colt Navy. He figured that proir to putting the grips back on he would do a little functional check. Just in case he pulled another bone headed move.
It was also noted that the Uberti had a neat little roller cam or pin installed that makes putting the Mainspring on a lot easier that the Pietta.
The 2003 made Pietta also had a whole bunch of butter screws. Fortunately I ordered a replacement set last week from Cabelas last week. I think I'm going to need them. Having two replicas of the 1851 Colt Navy made by different companies gave me an excellent chance to compare the two. I read that Pietta has improved their products since they made this one. I hope so.
The Uberti had its problems too. The Wedge Screw felt like it had been welded into the barrel frame. I have the spare screws for it as well. But the reassembly of the Uberti was a heck of a lot easier than the Pietta.
Any way both weapons are functioning properly after being reassembled. One of these days I have got to make it out to a range and give them a work out.
Here's one for you... What's wrong in this picture? The owner noticed that his Uberti 1851 Colt Navy revolver wouldn't half-cock after he reassembled it. So he opened it up and noted a small problem.
The Pietta Replica didn't have the same problem. Because it hadn't been disassembled yet.
Since he also had disassembled a Pietta Replica of a 1851 Colt Navy. He figured that proir to putting the grips back on he would do a little functional check. Just in case he pulled another bone headed move.
It was also noted that the Uberti had a neat little roller cam or pin installed that makes putting the Mainspring on a lot easier that the Pietta.
The 2003 made Pietta also had a whole bunch of butter screws. Fortunately I ordered a replacement set last week from Cabelas last week. I think I'm going to need them. Having two replicas of the 1851 Colt Navy made by different companies gave me an excellent chance to compare the two. I read that Pietta has improved their products since they made this one. I hope so.
The Uberti had its problems too. The Wedge Screw felt like it had been welded into the barrel frame. I have the spare screws for it as well. But the reassembly of the Uberti was a heck of a lot easier than the Pietta.
Any way both weapons are functioning properly after being reassembled. One of these days I have got to make it out to a range and give them a work out.
Gee, I've never done that.
The Charm of Antique Replicas
I love these old replicas. The axis pins with the deep wedges cut into them, the barrel wedge and the flat leaf springs compared to the coil and post springs of modern weapons. That antique design and with the look and feel of later 17th Century technology.
I'm not too fond of the butter screws that start to flake bits of metal especially if you've had them out before and know darn well they weren't strong armed in by some gorilla at the factory. But I guess that comes with it all.
I must be getting old. I had a sneaking suspision that when it would not half cock that I'd messed up on the Trigger Bolt Spring. So when I popped her open there it was. I took her down the rest of the way and did a double check.
It's interesting to study how the the Bolt, Trigger, Hammer and Hand Spring Pin interface with each other and the Trigger Bolt Spring to make all this work. Like the mechanism of an old watch before batteries and LEDs. Part of the deal in owning these old gals is figuring out what makes them "tick".
Last month I took down a Ruger LCP .380 and had a part left over. Lets just say I'm reminding myself to be a bit more careful.
I love these old replicas. The axis pins with the deep wedges cut into them, the barrel wedge and the flat leaf springs compared to the coil and post springs of modern weapons. That antique design and with the look and feel of later 17th Century technology.
I'm not too fond of the butter screws that start to flake bits of metal especially if you've had them out before and know darn well they weren't strong armed in by some gorilla at the factory. But I guess that comes with it all.
I must be getting old. I had a sneaking suspision that when it would not half cock that I'd messed up on the Trigger Bolt Spring. So when I popped her open there it was. I took her down the rest of the way and did a double check.
It's interesting to study how the the Bolt, Trigger, Hammer and Hand Spring Pin interface with each other and the Trigger Bolt Spring to make all this work. Like the mechanism of an old watch before batteries and LEDs. Part of the deal in owning these old gals is figuring out what makes them "tick".
Last month I took down a Ruger LCP .380 and had a part left over. Lets just say I'm reminding myself to be a bit more careful.
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High Tech Butter Churns
ClemBert
I started out on a dirt road farm in Kentucky. Horses, ponies, chickens, pigs and of course dairy cows. I spent many an evening hanging on to the wooden handle of an old churn making butter. Moms old churn of course no ways resembles you butter screw.
Thanks for the laugh and the flashback to "The Good Old Days"...
ClemBert
I started out on a dirt road farm in Kentucky. Horses, ponies, chickens, pigs and of course dairy cows. I spent many an evening hanging on to the wooden handle of an old churn making butter. Moms old churn of course no ways resembles you butter screw.
Thanks for the laugh and the flashback to "The Good Old Days"...
CajunPowder
Moderator
Bolt Spring
AH HA ! The revolver is improperly installed, the gun was installed upside-down !
AH HA ! The revolver is improperly installed, the gun was installed upside-down !